Thor Super C (Chateau/Four Winds) improvements and mods

[Sites]

Hey folks,

I purchased a 2014 Thor Chateau 33SW last August and right from the start I experienced the new RV owner blues. In short, after driving back to San Diego from where I flew out to purchase it in Texas, it spent its first 3 weeks in the shop with about a dozen issues, ranging from minor to major.

That said, aside from all of the issues, now that I've resolved most of them either through warranty or just fixing it myself after the local Thor service dealer either did a half-assed job fixing a problem, or just flat out didn't fix it after it sat in their shop for weeks, I like this motorhome. I wanted something fairly nice and that could reasonably tow 10k+ LBS, since I have a desert prerunner truck and several motorcycles to trailer out with the family. Dynamax's were nice, but out of the $$$ range I was willing to invest on a first MH. I also looked as used medium duty chassis Super C's (older Show Haulers, etc.) but anything close to $100k was too dated looking and generally VERY used. So I saw the F550 chassis based Thor 33SW and bit the bullet.

After owning it for about 7 months now, my impression is that Thor came up with a great layout and mated it to a good chassis, but as a result of both production line quality assurance issues and the general feeling that everything beneath the surface was designed to speed up build time, there are many improvements that can be made by owners to make this coach better. And frankly, should have been done at the factory before shipping off to the dealer! 🙂

The reason I'm starting this thread is because I've noticed a few other Thor Super C owners on here and other forums, that have all mentioned having similar issues (house water pump leaks, front fuel tank filling issues, front hydro jacks too low from the factory, poor house battery capacity, etc.) I've also noticed a few very cool modifications and improvements by others on here as well, such as relocating the house batteries to one of the storage compartments and switching to a bank of four 6v batts. I figured it would be useful to try and centralize the communication of issues encountered, how to resolve them and suggestions to improve the coach.

I've done a few already and will post one of them shortly. Hopefully other Thor Super C (33SW, 35sk, 35sg, Etc) will chime in as well.

[FixitFelixJr]

If you need help with systems issues. Just ask. I'll help guide you to your super-c solutions
Jr

[mbacfp30]

Excellent. Good to hear all is working good.

[RobbieH]

Great to hear you are fixed up! We've been using ours a whole lot recently, and it's still running as it should. It took me a little while to get used to it going in and out slower than the original, but I don't care as long as it works.

[Sites]

Quick udpate!

Pardon my French, but HOLY SH*T, the new 3 track system is installed in my RV and I just stopped by the shop to check it out and run it in and out a few times before they detail it for pick up tomorrow. Everything looks to have installed flawlessly and the system seems to work nicely. No weird creaks, alignment issues or metal shavings from odd gear/track wear.

It only took 4 (I think) times of Lippert sending the wrong parts; with a nearly 2 week wait for each shipment time. But it looks like I might finally have our coach back tomorrow. I will post pics this weekend.

[mbacfp30]

Sorry to hear about your troubles Sites. If your current shop cannot get it right, there is a shop in Fontana, CA (recommended to me by THOR) who might be able to help with slide fix.

[Sites]

Well, the 3trax saga continues. And frankly I'm at the end of my rope...

After they sent the incorrect 3trax system originally, Lippert said they needed to contact Thor in order to get a VIN, or some other number so they could send the correct system. This was 3 weeks ago. Well, the new hardware came in on Friday and the shop just called to tell me that for some reason, Lippert sent a standard 2 track kit. The shopped then called Lippert and basically got the run around and said, well we sent the correct kit for the number Thor gave us. When the shop reminded them that the ENTIRE reason we were ordering a new full slide kit was because we wanted to upgrade to the 3trax setup, they played dumb and basically had no answer and said that they would need Thor to contact Lippert directly to authorize the sale of an upgrade kit. Mind you, Lippert had to contact Thor directly in order to get the VIN/serial number to send the second kit out, so they already spoke with them...

To add insult to injury, Lippert said that if the shop wants to return either the incorrectly sized 3trax kit they originally sent, or the 2 track replacement they just sent, they would need to pay a 30% restocking fee on each. WTF?!

RobbieH, since you're the only person I know on here that had the 3trax retrofit done, would you be able to tell me the person at Thor you dealt with to get your 3trax system approved? Obviously mine is out of warranty, but I'm not looking for free hardware/labor. I just want to get someone at Thor to contact Lippert and say "yes, send them the goddman 3trax kit".

Ugh...

[mbacfp30]

Went on a short trip this weekend and got unable to finish leveling and 3-4oz of hydraulic oil dripping under the pump on top of reservoir. Taking it in tomorrow to get looked at again.

[mbacfp30]

Looks like I didn’t have a hydraulic leak after all. It was the filler cap wasn’t put on all the way. I should have picked up on that. The low voltage was being cause by the 15 AMP breaker (that goes from the leveling jacks to the truck batteries). It was not blown, but was causing the problems apparently. Tech said he worked on a previous coach for six hours and Lippert told him to replace the 15 AMP breaker (which was not blown) and it fixed the problem. Really doesn’t make sense to me unless merely changing the breaker resets something on the pump? If you ever get a chronic low voltage error on the LCI leveling jacks, might want to try changing the 15 AMP breaker first even if it is not blown. Just thought I would share that one.

[mbacfp30]

I have leveled many times with the front tires lifted off the ground. I was always told never rear tires. Now on I am going to use blocks under front tires and front jacks to help. Have any of you had hydraulic line leaks or problems with your jacks? Service guy told me someone at Thor probably drove over them with a forklift during install...thus the reason some have been swelling? I will know more on Friday.

[mbacfp30]

I was also concerned and asked lippert when trouble shooting problems...thinking it was off causing the problems by over stressing the system...they told me to reset the zero.

[RobbieH]

I should have mentioned, I didn't leave it that way. I do use leveling blocks also, when needed.

I have found that lately the jacks seem to be lifting the RV too high during the leveling process. I'm going to be calling Lippert to see if there is a way to prevent this from happening. The last few trips, I have manually set the jacks.

I use these
Leveling Blocks

[mbacfp30]

Thanks cefendya. I am going to start doing that with front tires and front jacks to cut down on extremem leveling conditions.

[cfendya]

I use these to drive on -> http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1443056874&sr=8-2&keywords=rv+leveling+blocks

and these for the jacks if needed -> http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00019-LynxCap/dp/B000UOBIZC/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_y

[mbacfp30]

Cfend, what do you use for front tires? I am assuming you are not using front jacks when you drive up on wood?

[mbacfp30]

I've often thought about it as well...some sites have more aggressive slopes. I just purchased some utility blocks to start with the front tires in those situations. Someone on another site recommend manual leveling the front jacks first...then finishing with auto level for the rest...something about less power and easier on the system? Anyone know of this technique?