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Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
I would say some of you have seen the start of this build that my brother bgriffey had posted, Well I have now bought the RV from him and plan to post the pixs of the build I have found a lot of rot in this RV I have torn out everything on the inside and have the rear opened up and the skin off the lower driver side, I will be buying a camera for my wife for christmas and im sure she will take the pixs if I can learn HOW to post them on here, Please remember its winter here in Kentucky so it will be slow but we will keep the pixs coming, Like I said this will be a total build from floor to walls and roof and custom inside build so I would appreciate all the help I can get this will be my first build and I will be learning as I go so any info will help. THANKS......Tony Griffey.

A new RV can be very expensive and if you already own an outdated RV then you should just consider a complete RV remodel which can be a significant amount of money cheaper than the cost of a brand new model. If you are retired and use your RV to travel then why not save the money for your travels rather than on spending a large chunk of money on a brand new travelling vacation home. When you decide to have an RV remodel done you can have your old model completely gutted and rebuilt to look just like a newer RV and when the work is done you will not even recognize your old mobile home. Going about having a new RV to travel in this way can save you thousands of dollars and you will not have to worry about the payments on a brand new RV home. Many retired people are travelling this way nowadays so they can travel the country and be comfortable while doing it, and there are many others that own these vehicles that they will take on summer family camping trips. The RVโ€™s that are made today are unbelievable and have all of the luxuries of home at a fraction of the size, these make it great fir families and retired folks to travel comfortably, and having an RV remodel done you can make your old RV look just like a brand new one.

Statistics show that the amount of registered RV homes on the road is growing steadily every year, and much of this is due to the baby boomer generation retiring and wanting to travel the country in comfort and style. Having an RV remodel can make your RV brand new. Some things you may want to consider is having all new beds and appliances put in. Since RV appliances are smaller than your normal home kitchen appliances they are much cheaper, and a complete RV remodel will probably cost you anywhere from $5,000 to $12,000, depending on how many changes are being done. The latter price could even be a little more if you are having your RV completely gutted and redesigned. It will still save you a lot of money over purchasing a new RV home. Another thing to consider during your RV remodel is if you plan on just remodeling the inside or if you want to have the exterior redone as well, and if this is the case the project will cost more money but will still be cheaper than buying a new RV. Most of these vacationing and traveling vehicles have a type of siding on them, and the more modern ones are sometimes made of more durable fibreglasses and plastics, these materials are very nice since you do not ever have to worry about rusting.

If you plan on getting a loan out for this remodeling job then you will first want to get various estimates, much like a home remodeling project. Once you get all the estimates you want you can then apply for the amount of money through your financial institution or credit union. The amount of money you need should not be hard for you to get approved for, especially if you have good credit. If you are a retired individual you most likely can take the money out of your pension or 401 funds, and this would be your best bet due to interest rates. Usually the place where you originally bought the RV can do the remodel for you as well, and if they cannot they can usually refer you to someone who can do the job for you. With the popularity of these vehicles constantly growing there are also many new dealerships and shops that specialize in these vacation vehicles. Having a comfortable vehicle to travel year round in or to just vacation in yearly is a great asset and can also be a great stress reliever. It is also a very popular vehicle for families to use on family camping trips, and the nice thing is that if the kids want to rough it while camping they can just sent their tents up right outside the RV.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's
3,483 REPLIES 3,483

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
This will give a ideal what the trim covers, This pixs is of the left front corner of the overhead bed and this is what that trim had to cover with only puddy tape as a seal. When I'm finished all this will be sealed tight forever.....NO LEAKES.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
This was the metal flashing that was on the roof sides and only the puddy tape to seal it and that white wide trim was over this, This was made to leak I think.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
LOL Your right, But in my case I will have to use the double sided tape first around the edges and then add metal flashing, The wide white trim will then go on over this flashing on the four corners and down the edge to the bottom corners of the RV and the rubber roof will cover the top two sides. Here is a pixs of this trim before the RV was taking apart.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

john_b1
Explorer
Explorer
oldtrucker63 wrote:
turtlesdove3 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Why not just go with Eternabond. It can be ordered in fairly wide widths. It's really an amazing product!

should I go back with the metal or will the rubber roof work.? Thanks.


Looks like Eternabond is a good product but I'm also a bit confused which to choose?
I'm going to use the Eternabond Tape to go around the edges and corners and then add the rubber roof, It should work great.



Usually the eternabond is used on the rubber roof to make leak proof joints Etc,not usually under it....
2001 F 350 CC PSD 373 rear,auto
RBW X16 slider,Bedsaver,Prodigy,Fold A Cover,Pressure Pro!
2011 Crossroads Cruiser cf32mk Patriot edit. 5th wheel Fibreglass and all the goodies necessary,Dish,comfy loungers,and a nickel to spend,
Mr & Mrs and the PUP.

MichaeleH
Explorer
Explorer
Hi OldTrucker, I have been reading your posts all winter and think you are doing a great job and love it. This is my first post to you because I just wanted to watch and I could not help with any of your fixes. I have a hard time just changing a tire. When you are ready to start a new rebuild of another RV sell me this one, for a profit of course. I hope you and your family will start enjoying this RV soon.
PS your little girl is just the cutest, I have enjoyed your family sharing a lot also. Best Wishes to you and family

McZippie
Explorer
Explorer
oldtrucker63 wrote:
turtlesdove3 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Why not just go with Eternabond. It can be ordered in fairly wide widths. It's really an amazing product!

should I go back with the metal or will the rubber roof work.? Thanks.


Looks like Eternabond is a good product but I'm also a bit confused which to choose?
I'm going to use the Eternabond Tape to go around the edges and corners and then add the rubber roof, It should work great.


Word to the wise, from school of hard knocks:

Prepare a test sample of your combination of roof materials and adhesives and let it age for awhile.

McZippie
Explorer
Explorer
oldtrucker63 wrote:
I might just make a home made box for the two.:h


That's the way to go, with a home made box. Make it the right size to fit the new batteries and vent it.

McZippie
Explorer
Explorer
oldtrucker63 wrote:
OK The batt should be vented from the sealed box thanks, Mine is under the seat of the dinning table in a seal box and vented to the outside I was just wondering if it was a sealed batt would the sealed batt put off gases too.


All batteries in the living quarters should be vented to the outside.
There is really no such thing as a completely sealed battery. Even AGMs need to be vented. Any type of battery can develop problems under right circumstances and will gas.

I really, really, REALLY like our Odessey AGMs. With high amp engine alternators they can be recharged rapidly. No need for a generator or solar on our small Class C. Add a automatic low voltage cutoff switch and you can tie the house and starter batteries together into one bank. No need to monitor anything, the low voltage cutoff switch will alway insure that there is enough reserve power to start the engine.

Consider 3 AGMs wired together, making one battery bank;
one in the engine compartment and 2 under the dining room seat.


http://www.odysseyfactory.com/batteries.html

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
I found this on here too, This is how I'm going to run the wiring on my old dodge so it will have easy access in the future.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
OK The batt should be vented from the sealed box thanks, Mine is under the seat of the dinning table in a seal box and vented to the outside I was just wondering if it was a sealed batt would the sealed batt put off gases too. Because this old dodge only has one house batt and I will be using two so I will have to get a bigger box for them, The hose that go's to the vent is no good so I have to get that also. I might just make a home made box for the two.:h
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
oldtrucker63 wrote:
Do all RV's have the house "batt" box vented to the outside using a hose of some kind and a sealed box for the Batt to sit in.??


No battery should be vented into the living area due to the flamable hydrogen gas that it emits. The battery can be outside where the hydrogen gas can escape but if it is inside then it should be in a sealed box vented to the outside. Mine is outside, under the floor, in an unsealed battery box to protect it from the elements, spray from the tires, etc.

BTW, I have been following your project for some time and I think you are doing a great job. You are an inspiration to us who have an aging RV.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
Do all RV's have the house "batt" box vented to the outside using a hose of some kind and a sealed box for the Batt to sit in.??
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
One thing for sure, When I'm done this thing will be water tight for many years to come.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
turtlesdove3 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Why not just go with Eternabond. It can be ordered in fairly wide widths. It's really an amazing product!

should I go back with the metal or will the rubber roof work.? Thanks.


Looks like Eternabond is a good product but I'm also a bit confused which to choose?
I'm going to use the Eternabond Tape to go around the edges and corners and then add the rubber roof, It should work great.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
hotrodln wrote:
how are the exhaust manifolds on that? my 79 dodge used to burn them up and make them crack....got the carb rejetted to run alittel richer and also added ceramic coated headers. I think i got them from summit racing. they were actually designed for a class c motorhome...
There is a crack in the right side and someone had welded it, Its about an inch wide and right on the center top about middle of the manifold, I hope to find a set of headers for this one too.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's