Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C

[oldtrucker63]

I would say some of you have seen the start of this build that my brother bgriffey had posted, Well I have now bought the RV from him and plan to post the pixs of the build I have found a lot of rot in this RV I have torn out everything on the inside and have the rear opened up and the skin off the lower driver side, I will be buying a camera for my wife for christmas and im sure she will take the pixs if I can learn HOW to post them on here, Please remember its winter here in Kentucky so it will be slow but we will keep the pixs coming, Like I said this will be a total build from floor to walls and roof and custom inside build so I would appreciate all the help I can get this will be my first build and I will be learning as I go so any info will help. THANKS......Tony Griffey.

A new RV can be very expensive and if you already own an outdated RV then you should just consider a complete RV remodel which can be a significant amount of money cheaper than the cost of a brand new model. If you are retired and use your RV to travel then why not save the money for your travels rather than on spending a large chunk of money on a brand new travelling vacation home. When you decide to have an RV remodel done you can have your old model completely gutted and rebuilt to look just like a newer RV and when the work is done you will not even recognize your old mobile home. Going about having a new RV to travel in this way can save you thousands of dollars and you will not have to worry about the payments on a brand new RV home. Many retired people are travelling this way nowadays so they can travel the country and be comfortable while doing it, and there are many others that own these vehicles that they will take on summer family camping trips. The RV’s that are made today are unbelievable and have all of the luxuries of home at a fraction of the size, these make it great fir families and retired folks to travel comfortably, and having an RV remodel done you can make your old RV look just like a brand new one.

Statistics show that the amount of registered RV homes on the road is growing steadily every year, and much of this is due to the baby boomer generation retiring and wanting to travel the country in comfort and style. Having an RV remodel can make your RV brand new. Some things you may want to consider is having all new beds and appliances put in. Since RV appliances are smaller than your normal home kitchen appliances they are much cheaper, and a complete RV remodel will probably cost you anywhere from $5,000 to $12,000, depending on how many changes are being done. The latter price could even be a little more if you are having your RV completely gutted and redesigned. It will still save you a lot of money over purchasing a new RV home. Another thing to consider during your RV remodel is if you plan on just remodeling the inside or if you want to have the exterior redone as well, and if this is the case the project will cost more money but will still be cheaper than buying a new RV. Most of these vacationing and traveling vehicles have a type of siding on them, and the more modern ones are sometimes made of more durable fibreglasses and plastics, these materials are very nice since you do not ever have to worry about rusting.

If you plan on getting a loan out for this remodeling job then you will first want to get various estimates, much like a home remodeling project. Once you get all the estimates you want you can then apply for the amount of money through your financial institution or credit union. The amount of money you need should not be hard for you to get approved for, especially if you have good credit. If you are a retired individual you most likely can take the money out of your pension or 401 funds, and this would be your best bet due to interest rates. Usually the place where you originally bought the RV can do the remodel for you as well, and if they cannot they can usually refer you to someone who can do the job for you. With the popularity of these vehicles constantly growing there are also many new dealerships and shops that specialize in these vacation vehicles. Having a comfortable vehicle to travel year round in or to just vacation in yearly is a great asset and can also be a great stress reliever. It is also a very popular vehicle for families to use on family camping trips, and the nice thing is that if the kids want to rough it while camping they can just sent their tents up right outside the RV.

[John_H]

""I will try to get the rough drawing with the measurements and post it, The Black and gray water tanks is planed out, The black water tank will sit right between the rear frame rails and the gray tank will sit to the driver side of the black tank on the outside of the frame rail.""~~~Trucker

The reasoning I posted the idea of a sketch ~~ it is in the fact that you are open to ideas, and since you are close to this facet of your construction. Some of your followers might come up with an idea, before you get to far in the construction, that you never saw. Especially if there are those out there that has a similar floor plan but wish that they, the factory, had did this.......

Anyway it would keep you one step ahead.

[oldtrucker63]

[oldtrucker63]

I might go back out some tonight after we get back from town, I just about have all of the plastic up now, I Still have to insulate the rafters and get some plastic up overhead, Anyway its just about ready for some interior wood.

[oldtrucker63]

TreeSeeker wrote:
If one end of the seam is lower than the other it could act like a gutter and the water flows down toward the low end, then over the top as soon as the top of the seam is lower than the high end of the seam. Hmm, was that clear?

I'm not sure how the water is getting into the seam, but probably from the end at the corner of the RV.

It might be a good idea to seal the seams from the inside while you can.

You was right treeseeker, The back end is where I have not finished the end seam and it was coming in at that end seam, it is sealed now, Thanks.

[oldtrucker63]

This is some of the wood that will be used to frame the cabinets, It was give to me by a good friend of mine, Thanks...Gary.

[oldtrucker63]

tboss wrote:
hey driver you might try the buytal backed duct tape at lowes it might be just what your lookin for ..its in the paint section it has a alum surface and a sticky backed buytal tape on it ,,I have used it and it is a real good product for what you need once you stick it down its there to stay and water dont hurt it,,,,I wld install on the inside of the seam and take the water hose and let her have it full force tyo see if it still leaks...its kind a like eterna bond..but only 7.00 bucks for abt 40feet of it

Hey Thanks tboss, I will go pick some up and seal from the inside.

[oldtrucker63]

Finished the overhead bunk insulation today, Now all I need to do is get the outer layer plastic put up and insulate the rafters, Then she will be ready for the flooring and the Interior wood.

[oldtrucker63]

This will be the bathroom flooring,

[oldtrucker63]

John H wrote:
With out seting eyes on, on that back, in person. It would be pretty hard to guess a right answer.
The condition of the old siding ?
Was it damaged on take off, storage, reinstalled?
What it snapped/assembled to gether right, slack. bent coupler seams?(picture shows a bow) If in fact it is warped, how about the other sides? over rambleing miles?
Where in absolute truth/reality does the leak/s originate from?

Apart from all of this could you make a rough drawing,shown on here, on your intended layout ? Maybe with some length & width measurements on the side? In your reasembly you must have layed out black & gray water openings, overhead cabinets, sink, bath, sleeping berths?

I will try to get the rough drawing with the measurements and post it, The Black and gray water tanks is planed out, The black water tank will sit right between the rear frame rails and the gray tank will sit to the driver side of the black tank on the outside of the frame rail.

[oldtrucker63]

TreeSeeker wrote:
If one end of the seam is lower than the other it could act like a gutter and the water flows down toward the low end, then over the top as soon as the top of the seam is lower than the high end of the seam. Hmm, was that clear?

I'm not sure how the water is getting into the seam, but probably from the end at the corner of the RV.

It might be a good idea to seal the seams from the inside while you can.

ILet me check the end, I have a 'temp' Cap over the end at the rear, It might be letting the water in through that end if not sealed. Thanks.

[tboss]

hey driver you might try the buytal backed duct tape at lowes it might be just what your lookin for ..its in the paint section it has a alum surface and a sticky backed buytal tape on it ,,I have used it and it is a real good product for what you need once you stick it down its there to stay and water dont hurt it,,,,I wld install on the inside of the seam and take the water hose and let her have it full force tyo see if it still leaks...its kind a like eterna bond..but only 7.00 bucks for abt 40feet of it

[John_H]

With out seting eyes on, on that back, in person. It would be pretty hard to guess a right answer.
The condition of the old siding ?
Was it damaged on take off, storage, reinstalled?
What it snapped/assembled to gether right, slack. bent coupler seams?(picture shows a bow) If in fact it is warped, how about the other sides? over rambleing miles?
Where in absolute truth/reality does the leak/s originate from?

Apart from all of this could you make a rough drawing,shown on here, on your intended layout ? Maybe with some length & width measurements on the side? In your reasembly you must have layed out black & gray water openings, overhead cabinets, sink, bath, sleeping berths?

[TreeSeeker]

If one end of the seam is lower than the other it could act like a gutter and the water flows down toward the low end, then over the top as soon as the top of the seam is lower than the high end of the seam. Hmm, was that clear?

I'm not sure how the water is getting into the seam, but probably from the end at the corner of the RV.

It might be a good idea to seal the seams from the inside while you can.

[oldtrucker63]

Its not condensation for sure, I was watching it, and it keeps coming in and it was raining like hell and the wind was blowing a little but I don't think it was blowing hard enough to blow water in through the seam, It was coming in through three of the seams from the top seam down, The bottom three or four was not leaking and it was just about from that big window back to the rear, The front part of the same seam was not leaking, Its like it was just in that rear corner and up half of the side....:h

[14yuTrk]

Posted By: oldtrucker63 on 12/01/10 09:56am


Anyone know what would cause the metal siding to leak like this, How would water run up hill.?????

Water doesn't run uphill unless it is pushed or pulled. To me that looks more like condensate that gathered in that area, possibly caused by air which does run uphill, allowing moisture to accumulate in an area and condensing. It does appear to have a small bent or flattened area that could allow air in. Or there was an unsealed area from the inside causing it. My deck has a metal roof and is open so temps are very close on either side and in winter there is always acondensate that drips from the ceiling/roof.