Towing Honda CR-V

[cKarlGo]

OK, I bought a 2014 Honda CR-V to use as a toad. The manual has very detailed instructions on what to do to ready the CR-V to be towed after connecting the tow bars, but nothing on what to do to reverse the process when you disconnect.

Do I simply disconnect, shift to park and start the car back up and drive on my way?

I'd appreciate some other CR-V owners weighing in on their disconnect process.

Thank you!

[dezolen]

Read your owners manual. It's all spelled out.
We have flat towed our 2012 CRV for up to 6 hours before battery drains so I usually don't pull the fuse. Just be sure to shut off all accessories.

[cKarlGo]

rondeb wrote:
We had a toggle switch installed that breaks the current to the radio rather than taking out the fuse each time. Those tiny fuses were a bugger. When you unhook, just drive away. Best tow car ever.

I believe our fuse was number 19 but not sure

We had the toggle switch installed by Car Toys in Spokane WA but I believe they are a chain

We had the Stay and Play installed which is a plug and go system. Wonderful system
SMI Plug and Play

Thank you! I'll check that out.

From some reading I've done, it appears that some of the CR-Vs require 2 fuses to be pulled, but I haven't been able to pin down what the deciding factor is yet. When I can and find out how to identify them, I'll follow up here with the information.

[rondeb]

We had a toggle switch installed that breaks the current to the radio rather than taking out the fuse each time. Those tiny fuses were a bugger. When you unhook, just drive away. Best tow car ever.

I believe our fuse was number 19 but not sure

We had the toggle switch installed by Car Toys in Spokane WA but I believe they are a chain

We had the Stay and Play installed which is a plug and go system. Wonderful system
SMI Plug and Play

[cKarlGo]

By the way, I got an email back regarding the fuse switch and they sent me a link to this gallery that shows the basics of installing it.

http://www.rv-partsplus.com/gallery/show/3

I'm still trying to determine if mine requires one or two fuses to be cut out to turn everything off. My Honda dealership doesn't deal with RVers very much, so they aren't completely clear on what I'm asking them to explain or why. Does anyone know how to determine this for certain?

[cKarlGo]

Dave Duck wrote:
Is your 2014 Honda CRV AWD, and if it is, does your manual say that it can be towed with a towbar? I ask because I am still confused as I have a 2010 Honda Element EX AWD, and the manual specifically says it is not designed to tow 4 down. I also cannot use a dolly because of the AWD, so I am going to have to find another suitable vehicle. Is there anyone out there that owns an AWD Element that is towing 4 down and any issues or problems? Thanks

Yes, it is. The manual has instructions for towing 4 down. Quite a few people here are also towing CR-Vs and have provided a great deal of useful input.

I'm not much on auto mechanics, but I'd guess it's a difference in the transmissions between the 2 models.

The only issue I have is that leaving the key in accessory mode means that the nav system continues to run. I'm currently working on a solution that will allow me to switch it off without pulling the fuse every time. See a post earlier in the thread for a solution to that issue.

[Big_Katuna]

For some strange reason, Honda says its ok to flat tow the CRV but not the Element, even though they share the identical drive train.

I flat tow my 2011 2WD Element and follow the procedure that is in the CRV manual.

The manual for the AWD CRV states it is towable.

It voids the warranty but you are probably out anyways.

[Dave_Duck]

Is your 2014 Honda CRV AWD, and if it is, does your manual say that it can be towed with a towbar? I ask because I am still confused as I have a 2010 Honda Element EX AWD, and the manual specifically says it is not designed to tow 4 down. I also cannot use a dolly because of the AWD, so I am going to have to find another suitable vehicle. Is there anyone out there that owns an AWD Element that is towing 4 down and any issues or problems? Thanks

[cKarlGo]

I found this product:

http://www.rv-partsplus.com/rving-fuseswitch

I'm currently trying to gather some more information about my application. I'll let everyone know how it works out.

Thanks again for all the input!

[Pangaea_Ron]

I'm currently on a trip in the SW, and I have extolled the virtues of towing a 2014 Honda CR-V in this thread. Yesterday I had a failure in that configuration. My Road-Master Even-Brake system locked up the wheels on the CR-V and squared off the tires trying to stop the MH. It continued with the CR-V brakes engaged even after I had released the MH brakes? Lots of smoke from the tires and a real jerk to the MH.
I quickly got to the shoulder to determine what happened. I have no idea? Everything seemed OK with the configuration of the set-up, and it returned a positive System OK when I re-tested the system. I removed the braking system and have been traveling without it. I would be more concerned if I did not have an Allison transmission with a grade brake, but after several 6-7,000 foot high passes, and a few 10,000 passes ahead I would like to have the system perform well. Tomorrow I will find a large gravel lot to test the system (without squaring the tires) to see if I can get it to work again?

Any thoughts?

[hottubkid]

I just wish they still made sticks. I have 64K driven and 84k towed. Wondering if I should do extra maintenance but they say it's good for about 200 K

[dverstra]

cKarlGo wrote:
Now, just so I'm sure this means what I think it means, the manual says:

3. Depress the brake pedal. Move the shift lever
through all its positions.

4. Shift to D and hold for five
seconds, then to N.

And that means, starting at P to shift all the way down to 1, then back up to D and then to N, correct?

Yes, correct. and let the engine run for 3 minutes before turning the engine off and leaving the key in the #1 position so that the steering can turn.

[cKarlGo]

wildmanbaker wrote:
Karl, is the connections labeled Sat. hook up. If not, it is for the cable connection, and the sat will not work through this hook up without modifying the connection for the sat only. That may be the reason there are not 120 v or 12 v outlets.

There are connections for both satellite and cable on my coach. My point is that the carry out dishes require a power source to operate (mine is 12v and I have a 120v converter). It would have been nice if there was a outlet of either type next to the connectors to provide power to the dish.

If any manufacturers are doing this, I haven't personally seen an example. I'll run a 12v outlet off of the compartment light (I talked to the dealer about that plan and they said it's fine).

[wildmanbaker]

Karl, is the connections labeled Sat. hook up. If not, it is for the cable connection, and the sat will not work through this hook up without modifying the connection for the sat only. That may be the reason there are not 120 v or 12 v outlets.

[cKarlGo]

Mr.Mark wrote:

cKarlGo wrote:

Mr.Mark wrote:
As you can see, we have a 2013 CR-V.... just disconnect and go. We had the cut-off switch installed to turn off the radio/navigation.

Mr.Mark: Where did you have this work done? I'd like to have one put in as well.

Hi cKarlGo,

We had ours done at Redlands RV and Performance in Redlands, CA. I see that you are in Virginia. I would think any reputable car repair facility could install a cut-off switch to the fuse box.

When we had the 2007 Honda, I had a local car repair guy do it in TN (also did a nice job).

MM.

Thank you!

I think I've found the parts to use to construct one myself. I'm honestly rather surprised that this sort of thing isn't sold as an assembled aftermarket item.

I'll add it to the to do list along with adding some 12v outlets in the basement (seriously, why do they put prewired connectors for a carry out dish in a nice convenient place, but do not install either a 120 or 12v outlet to plug your carry out dish into?).