Trailer brake controller

[OKPETE]

Hello,
Considering towing a trike trailer behind my pleasureway mercedes plateau and was wondering if anyone has installed a brake controller. The year 2011 on chassis.
Thanks.
Pete

[mowog]

I don't think an add on proportioning type of brake controller (using electric brakes on a trailer) really affects the tow vehicles brake system at all. An accelerometer in the controller just tells the electronic brakes on the trailer how much to respond, depending on how quick the tow vehicle is stopping. The degree that the trailer brakes respond is set by a gain control on the brake controller.

An alternative could be a surge type brake if the trailer is not that heavy.

Bob

[ffjeff]

The Sprinter is a bit more complex to add a brake controller to. As the system is multiplexed the brake signal needs to be intercepted before the control module under the drivers seat. On our 06 even though the seven pin wiring was there from the factory it did not include a brake wire. Using internet resources I was able find a wiring schematic and then tie into the circuit before the multiplex controller. Some have simply added a second brake switch on the pedal linkage and used a standalone circuit.
You really need to research this for the newer model Sprinter and be aware that most likely the trailer will not interface with the Sprinter anti-loc system.

[retraite]

Pete,

Yes, you can install a brake controller on virtually any vehicle.

We have an '08 PW Lexor and installed a Prodigy P2 (current model is P3).

If you choose to do so, I suggest you consider a number of things, including:

1. Use a proportional controller only (the Prodigy is such). I encourage including a circuit breaker in the line.
2. You may want/need to install an aftermarket auxiliary ATF cooler (ours includes a thermostatically controlled auxiliary fan).
3. Your ATF temperature is the Achilles heel in the "set up". So we also installed a larger ATF "pan" - it added three quarts to the ATF volume. And, we installed an ATF temperature gauge on the "A" pillar. While I prefer an ATF temperature at or below 190F, I'm still OK with up to about 210F. Above that and I simply slow down to get that temp down. I don't want to "burn" the ATF, 'cause if you do, well, that's a problem. Generally, that temperature only "rises" when your climbing.
4. Air bags on the rear axle really helped the stability. Ours are Airlift 5000 with wireless independent controls from the driver's seat. We really like that feature. We usually run the bags at about 45 PSI.
5. Be SURE to check the load on your rear axle. When you add the tongue weight of the trailer, it's easy to approach the max limit. Going over just asks for trouble.
6. And, I have TPMS monitoring for ALL wheels on the ground available to me on the dash while underway. I once had a trailer tire going down while underway, and knowing that before if failed allowed me to pull off and address the problem without incident.

Our trailer is an enclosed single axle aluminum trailer in which we put a motorcycle (usually either the Goldwing or the Burgman), a bicycle or three, a canoe on top, and other "stuff", and usually are "ready to roll" at about 3,200 lbs. with 12% on the hitch ball. We pull it about 90% of the time, so for us, that's about 27,000 miles to date. Another 8,000 planned for this summer.

Earlier, we pulled an open trailer, but really like the enclosed setup better. Everything stays secure, clean, out of sight. 'Tis much better.

Our MPG takes about a 2 to 3 MPG "hit" towing.

In short, if you setup your rig correctly, and slow down just a bit (my magic number is 58 MPH, right lane of course), it works just fine.

Cheers.