We're all tired of reading about 'wandering' problems....

[goufgators]

Please forgive me for another post about steering 'wander'. We have a new 2017 Winnebago class A that has the dreaded wandering problem (don't they all...maybe except the very high end units). First, I had the front end aligned...no affect; then weighed and psi adjusted...no affect; then steering stabilizer installed...thankfully some positive affect but still some wandering particularly on windy days. I know it'll never steer like a Lincoln or Cadillac but would like for it to be a bit less of a constant strain on the driver (me). I'm willing to have another after market add-on if it would result in some positive result as did the steering stabilizer. Been thinking that a rear trac bar might be the next step to take. Would appreciate any comments from you 'experienced' drivers. Thanks!

[FloridaRosebud]

soren wrote:
Speaking of discussion, I often wander myself (usually the wife hops in the car and finds me, so I don't go far, LOL) Anyway, I have a bit over 50K miles of driving my used 2006 34' F53 rig. It's got over 80K on it, and I just had the rear sway bushing replaced (they were mush, and falling out in pieces) and new Monroe shocks installed. The new bushings were first and did nothing that I could feel. The OEM shocks were toast, and the new ones made a very slight difference in eliminating steering vibration, and the pounding the back of the coach experienced over potholes.

This brings me to my question. The F53 is obviously a leading edge chassis design, assuming it's still 1950. So, when I read all the horror stories about the uncontrolled sway, and generally undriveable reputation of these things, what is a valid concern, and what is a result of operators expecting it to handle like a pick-up or a diesel pusher on a modern suspension? I never feel that my coach is unruly in the least, while going down the road, even when some suspension parts were totally worn out. I also come from a work background where driving medium duty trucks was part of the job on occasion, and the coach is just as behaved as some brand new class six rigs I've driven. Even though it's obviously possible to greatly improve the F53, how much of the problem is the reality of how a lower cost motorhome actually handles on a simple, dated chassis, VS unrealistic customer expectations? I'm not knocking anyone, especially those folks in really short rigs, as I can see that they could be a nightmare, but I do think it's an interesting question.

I think that's a good question. Like you, years ago I owned a business and we had a Ford 26' box truck and a GMC Savanna van I towed a 20' 12,500lb trailer. The truck did fine and rode and handled like, well, a truck. For me, I don't expect my RV to handle like my Yukon, I just don't want it to be white knuckled at 55mph. I'm trying to eliminate some of the roll and wandering. Stiffening up the suspension is a good way to do this. (this includes, as many have pointed out, tire and air bag pressures based on the load) I think some of the reasons we have problems, or should I say "issues" with larger RV's is our center of gravity is higher than our box truck brethren. So physics comes into play. As an engineer I look at things differently than some folks, and I have a mechanical engineer who works with me who is very knowledgeable on suspensions and handling. We have had many conversations and between him and the guy who owns the frame and alignment shop I'll be using we will make the RV handle as best it can for the least amount of money. That's my goal.

I hope this made some sense. Heading out for a 4 day weekend in an hour or so, and we'll see how it does now. Heading up I-95....oh joy.....

Al

[soren]

Speaking of discussion, I often wander myself (usually the wife hops in the car and finds me, so I don't go far, LOL) Anyway, I have a bit over 50K miles of driving my used 2006 34' F53 rig. It's got over 80K on it, and I just had the rear sway bushing replaced (they were mush, and falling out in pieces) and new Monroe shocks installed. The new bushings were first and did nothing that I could feel. The OEM shocks were toast, and the new ones made a very slight difference in eliminating steering vibration, and the pounding the back of the coach experienced over potholes.

This brings me to my question. The F53 is obviously a leading edge chassis design, assuming it's still 1950. So, when I read all the horror stories about the uncontrolled sway, and generally undriveable reputation of these things, what is a valid concern, and what is a result of operators expecting it to handle like a pick-up or a diesel pusher on a modern suspension? I never feel that my coach is unruly in the least, while going down the road, even when some suspension parts were totally worn out. I also come from a work background where driving medium duty trucks was part of the job on occasion, and the coach is just as behaved as some brand new class six rigs I've driven. Even though it's obviously possible to greatly improve the F53, how much of the problem is the reality of how a lower cost motorhome actually handles on a simple, dated chassis, VS unrealistic customer expectations? I'm not knocking anyone, especially those folks in really short rigs, as I can see that they could be a nightmare, but I do think it's an interesting question.

[irishtom29]

People neeed not make excuses for using a discussion forum for...well, discussion.

[FloridaRosebud]

Passin Thru wrote:
OK, for the 12,000 time Steer Safe Look it up. Why can't people Google their own stuff?

Guess you've said it 12,001 times now. 😉

I did look it up and they do not list one for the Ford F53 Chassis, which is a kingpin type steering. Plus, for me, they really do not list enough information on their website for me to feel comfortable spending over $400 to *try* it anyway.

Al

[Passin_Thru]

OK, for the 12,000 time Steer Safe Look it up. Why can't people Google their own stuff?

[FloridaRosebud]

Update - the alignment shop found the alignment to be great, but we found (I say we, as they let me go under the RV with them and explained A LOT about my suspension and frame) the Steering Stabilizer, which was not OEM, to be bad. They took it off, and viola, no pull to the right! They also suggested adding some air to the airbags. So we added air and now have 70psi all around. Took it out and was easily able to go 70mph with no white-knuckles. A Semi even passed me and did not really affect me. So the shop said a new steering stabilizer will certainly tighten up the steering, and next would be the Hellwig rear stabilizer. (I called Bilstein and the shocks I have are new and their top of the line, so no improvements there). So all-in-all a good day.

BTW - the RV already has front and rear anti sway bars. Front is about 1", and rear is about 1.25". So the shop only recommended adding the rear stabilizer, which is in addition to the anti sway bar.

Al

[FloridaRosebud]

db7512 wrote:
Did a truck shop do the alignment?

An update - a local Truck alignment and frame shop is going to look at it with me tomorrow. They do a bunch of the RV work here in Brevard County, so we'll see where the alignment is at in the morning. The guy there also said he'd go through all of the suspension components with me to help me get familiar with everything. Sounds like a nice morning tomorrow!!

Al

[tropical36]

FloridaRosebud wrote:

db7512 wrote:
Did a truck shop do the alignment?

They did - BUT - today coming home it was wandering towards the right pretty much all the time, and I was under 60mph the entire time. I'm going to take it to a Truck shop close to me that has had good local reviews and get them to go through it. I was under the chassis today and it does not have any rear anti-sway bar, so that's pretty much a no brainer now. The good news is the shocks look to be pretty new at the rear and they're Bilsteins. The next trip (next weekend) I'll be driving past a CAT scale that's at a T/A stop, so we'll try and get it weighed then.

Al

We always use regular highway truck scales for getting weighed.
In more than one state in fact and they have always been more than happy to weigh each of our axles and the toad, for free.
Despite what some say, we've never had a problem and it's also a great pull over for having lunch.

[FloridaRosebud]

db7512 wrote:
Did a truck shop do the alignment?

They did - BUT - today coming home it was wandering towards the right pretty much all the time, and I was under 60mph the entire time. I'm going to take it to a Truck shop close to me that has had good local reviews and get them to go through it. I was under the chassis today and it does not have any rear anti-sway bar, so that's pretty much a no brainer now. The good news is the shocks look to be pretty new at the rear and they're Bilsteins. The next trip (next weekend) I'll be driving past a CAT scale that's at a T/A stop, so we'll try and get it weighed then.

Al

[db7512]

Did a truck shop do the alignment?

[Dog_Trainer]

The problem with my F 53 chassis was Roll and wind push I never had any problem with semis passing etc... I did the CHF, installed a safety steer and went with the Helwig rear sway bar which is an add on and not a replacement rear sway bar. I have been well satisfied with the results. I also want to add that I took the MH to an alignment specialist and had the factory front end alignment redone.

[tropical36]

FloridaRosebud wrote:
My wife and I are very new to the RV world (5 weeks) and am out on our second trip. We bought a 2006 National RV SeaBreeze 33 foot class A gas. I've been struggling with the "wandering" issue and have been playing with the air pressures in the tires and coil air bags first. I equalized the air bags at 40psi, then added 10psi to the passenger side (as it wanted to wander to the right) and that helped a bit. I plan on adding another 10psi after this trip to see if that helps even more. The new tires were at 110psi when I got it from the shop, so I lowered pressure to 100psi. So I have a couple of questions:

1. Chassis - It a Ford V10 engine. VIN has F53 in the series, so I assume it's an F53 chassis. However the Ford placard says 53 then T. This is important, of course, as I want to buy a rear sway bar and need to know what to order.
2. Tire pressure - tires say 110psi max, Federal placard says 85psi, the Ford chassis sticker says 90psi. Should I stick with the Ford number?
3. What speeds do you all normally cruse at on the highway? Seems for this RV, between 60 and 65 is where it likes to be. Over 65 becomes more white knuckle than I like. I do notice that with the cruise set at 63-64 I have not been passing any RVs, and none seem to be passing me, so I suppose that's a clue.

Thanks for any help.

Al

You might want to talk with Helwig, before ordering or adding anything.
Tire pressures can only be determined by weighing each axle, fully loaded and then adding 10 - 15psi over the inflation chart for taking care of all the variables.
I consider the driving, handling and braking of a behemoth most carefully and wondering if I should even be driving my usual 57mph, considering the comparison with a Vette or Ferrari, that is held to the same highway speed limits. Best lawful speed for safety and economy, in fact, is for whatever it takes for keeping it in top gear overdrive. Screw, whatever is behind you, as they know nothing of you and who who you might have on board. Also have plenty of lanes for being a NASCAR wannabee. Keep in mind, that with these rigs, people are sitting and walking all over the place and not like being strapped in, at all times with an air bag in front of them.

[FloridaRosebud]

My wife and I are very new to the RV world (5 weeks) and am out on our second trip. We bought a 2006 National RV SeaBreeze 33 foot class A gas. I've been struggling with the "wandering" issue and have been playing with the air pressures in the tires and coil air bags first. I equalized the air bags at 40psi, then added 10psi to the passenger side (as it wanted to wander to the right) and that helped a bit. I plan on adding another 10psi after this trip to see if that helps even more. The new tires were at 110psi when I got it from the shop, so I lowered pressure to 100psi. So I have a couple of questions:

1. Chassis - It a Ford V10 engine. VIN has F53 in the series, so I assume it's an F53 chassis. However the Ford placard says 53 then T. This is important, of course, as I want to buy a rear sway bar and need to know what to order.
2. Tire pressure - tires say 110psi max, Federal placard says 85psi, the Ford chassis sticker says 90psi. Should I stick with the Ford number?
3. What speeds do you all normally cruse at on the highway? Seems for this RV, between 60 and 65 is where it likes to be. Over 65 becomes more white knuckle than I like. I do notice that with the cruise set at 63-64 I have not been passing any RVs, and none seem to be passing me, so I suppose that's a clue.

Thanks for any help.

Al

[mc_cc]

irishtom29 wrote:
My 34’ long Tiffin 32SA gasser has factory installed Sumo springs but an otherwise stock suspension and tracks and handles well. Perhaps this can be attributed to the 24,000 pound chassis, unusual in a 34 foot gasser, and the 228” wheelbase, the longest available in a 34 footer. Indeed, some 34 foot gassers use a 208” wheelbase and have a tragically long rear overhang. In any event I’ve no need to modify the suspension or steering.

I do think the Sumo springs are helpful. I purchased a 2016 Bounder 35K and added the Sumo Springs. It did help to stiffen up the roll that was causing my main steering issue. It does feel somewhat tighter in the steering. I also added a steering stabilizer and did the cheap handling fix, but all of those things help moderately. I do believe that I need the auxillary Roadmaster sway bar, but I really hate to drop over $900.00 for it. Will end up doing that though. Check with Henderson's Line up online. They actually have package deals with installation that include several of these parts for improved ride.