โJun-04-2009 08:19 AM
โJun-04-2010 08:45 AM
wolfman01 wrote:john and terry wrote:wolfman01 wrote:john and terry wrote:wolfman01 wrote:
I got the TV's installed today. They should have been done yesterday, but I let little stuff get the better of me.
Interesting...I have a similar cabinet that still has the old style TV in it. I was thinking about replacing it with a new flat screen and was thinking a wall mount should be able to attach to the old cabinet...like you did here. Any special tricks or tips to making it work?
Once you get an idea of what you want to do, it is a very straightforward job. When I pulled the rear TV, there was a little angled shelf that it was sitting on. I recycled it into mounting surfaces to fasten the new piece of plywood to it. To make that, I cut the platform down to a couple of 2 or 3 inch blocks, and screwed them to the cabinet in such a manner as to provide a mounting surface for the new piece of plywood. As you can see in the picture, I retained the original padded TV surround to hide the screws, and what would otherwise be a very ugly seam between the old and new material. The smaller TV used a tilt only mount where I eyeballed the desired height. To start, I simply measured the size of the hole for the cabinets, and cut the new boards to fit with a circular saw. I then measured the space between the mount and the edge of the newly cut plywood to insure that it would be as even as possible, and cut a larger hole in the board to pass the power cable and TV antenna cables through. Next step was a liberal application of satin brown spray paint that I had on hand, let it dry and bolt it all together.
The front went together in a similar manner. Its exceptions included splitting a 2x6 piece of lumber in half to use as a mounting surface for the new board in front, and being VERY careful with screw selection to avoid punching holes through the dash and vinyl. I recessed that backing board in 2" into the old TV hole to tuck the new TV as tight as possible against the dash to minimize encroaching on seat access. As the mount for the font TV had to be a different design due to wider bolt placement on the TV, I took two wood screws and partially sunk them into the backing board on opposite sides of the latching mechanism. This was necessary to prevent the TV from sliding side to side. You cannot see these screws at all with the TV in place. That took some very careful measuring to get the desired fit.
Both TV's went up in the equivalent time span of one day. Also, do check to see how your power cords are attached to the TV you are purchasing. The one I bought for the front could not be removed, making for some careful balancing of the TV, mounting board, screws, and power screwdriver. If you ensure that you have removable power cords, you can simply run them through the access hole, and plug them in after mounting the set. I also recommend using 3/4" plywood as I am a firm believer of you cannot have too much strength.
Very instructive...thanks for the tips Wolfman...and nice job!
Thanx. This is the kind of fix up work that I like to do. It makes it even more fun when you have a budget of $0.00 for the job at hand, and you have to improvise to make use of what you have on hand, and STILL make it look like you cared about the job. :B
โJun-04-2010 07:49 AM
โJun-04-2010 05:39 AM
โJun-03-2010 06:34 PM
john and terry wrote:wolfman01 wrote:john and terry wrote:wolfman01 wrote:
I got the TV's installed today. They should have been done yesterday, but I let little stuff get the better of me.
Interesting...I have a similar cabinet that still has the old style TV in it. I was thinking about replacing it with a new flat screen and was thinking a wall mount should be able to attach to the old cabinet...like you did here. Any special tricks or tips to making it work?
Once you get an idea of what you want to do, it is a very straightforward job. When I pulled the rear TV, there was a little angled shelf that it was sitting on. I recycled it into mounting surfaces to fasten the new piece of plywood to it. To make that, I cut the platform down to a couple of 2 or 3 inch blocks, and screwed them to the cabinet in such a manner as to provide a mounting surface for the new piece of plywood. As you can see in the picture, I retained the original padded TV surround to hide the screws, and what would otherwise be a very ugly seam between the old and new material. The smaller TV used a tilt only mount where I eyeballed the desired height. To start, I simply measured the size of the hole for the cabinets, and cut the new boards to fit with a circular saw. I then measured the space between the mount and the edge of the newly cut plywood to insure that it would be as even as possible, and cut a larger hole in the board to pass the power cable and TV antenna cables through. Next step was a liberal application of satin brown spray paint that I had on hand, let it dry and bolt it all together.
The front went together in a similar manner. Its exceptions included splitting a 2x6 piece of lumber in half to use as a mounting surface for the new board in front, and being VERY careful with screw selection to avoid punching holes through the dash and vinyl. I recessed that backing board in 2" into the old TV hole to tuck the new TV as tight as possible against the dash to minimize encroaching on seat access. As the mount for the font TV had to be a different design due to wider bolt placement on the TV, I took two wood screws and partially sunk them into the backing board on opposite sides of the latching mechanism. This was necessary to prevent the TV from sliding side to side. You cannot see these screws at all with the TV in place. That took some very careful measuring to get the desired fit.
Both TV's went up in the equivalent time span of one day. Also, do check to see how your power cords are attached to the TV you are purchasing. The one I bought for the front could not be removed, making for some careful balancing of the TV, mounting board, screws, and power screwdriver. If you ensure that you have removable power cords, you can simply run them through the access hole, and plug them in after mounting the set. I also recommend using 3/4" plywood as I am a firm believer of you cannot have too much strength.
Very instructive...thanks for the tips Wolfman...and nice job!
โJun-03-2010 06:19 PM
โJun-03-2010 06:04 PM
โJun-03-2010 05:59 PM
wolfman01 wrote:john and terry wrote:wolfman01 wrote:
I got the TV's installed today. They should have been done yesterday, but I let little stuff get the better of me.
Interesting...I have a similar cabinet that still has the old style TV in it. I was thinking about replacing it with a new flat screen and was thinking a wall mount should be able to attach to the old cabinet...like you did here. Any special tricks or tips to making it work?
Once you get an idea of what you want to do, it is a very straightforward job. When I pulled the rear TV, there was a little angled shelf that it was sitting on. I recycled it into mounting surfaces to fasten the new piece of plywood to it. To make that, I cut the platform down to a couple of 2 or 3 inch blocks, and screwed them to the cabinet in such a manner as to provide a mounting surface for the new piece of plywood. As you can see in the picture, I retained the original padded TV surround to hide the screws, and what would otherwise be a very ugly seam between the old and new material. The smaller TV used a tilt only mount where I eyeballed the desired height. To start, I simply measured the size of the hole for the cabinets, and cut the new boards to fit with a circular saw. I then measured the space between the mount and the edge of the newly cut plywood to insure that it would be as even as possible, and cut a larger hole in the board to pass the power cable and TV antenna cables through. Next step was a liberal application of satin brown spray paint that I had on hand, let it dry and bolt it all together.
The front went together in a similar manner. Its exceptions included splitting a 2x6 piece of lumber in half to use as a mounting surface for the new board in front, and being VERY careful with screw selection to avoid punching holes through the dash and vinyl. I recessed that backing board in 2" into the old TV hole to tuck the new TV as tight as possible against the dash to minimize encroaching on seat access. As the mount for the font TV had to be a different design due to wider bolt placement on the TV, I took two wood screws and partially sunk them into the backing board on opposite sides of the latching mechanism. This was necessary to prevent the TV from sliding side to side. You cannot see these screws at all with the TV in place. That took some very careful measuring to get the desired fit.
Both TV's went up in the equivalent time span of one day. Also, do check to see how your power cords are attached to the TV you are purchasing. The one I bought for the front could not be removed, making for some careful balancing of the TV, mounting board, screws, and power screwdriver. If you ensure that you have removable power cords, you can simply run them through the access hole, and plug them in after mounting the set. I also recommend using 3/4" plywood as I am a firm believer of you cannot have too much strength.
โJun-03-2010 05:52 PM
โJun-03-2010 05:34 PM
john and terry wrote:wolfman01 wrote:
I got the TV's installed today. They should have been done yesterday, but I let little stuff get the better of me.
Interesting...I have a similar cabinet that still has the old style TV in it. I was thinking about replacing it with a new flat screen and was thinking a wall mount should be able to attach to the old cabinet...like you did here. Any special tricks or tips to making it work?
โJun-03-2010 09:09 AM
wolfman01 wrote:
I got the TV's installed today. They should have been done yesterday, but I let little stuff get the better of me.
โJun-03-2010 07:14 AM
โJun-02-2010 10:33 PM
Suescasa Mycasa wrote:
Friday is one year anniversary of this topic
Happy Birthday
โJun-02-2010 06:08 PM
โJun-02-2010 05:56 PM
โJun-02-2010 04:57 PM
BigRabbitMan wrote:
Put two nuts on the exhaust manifold/pipe flange bolt that had lost it's nuts! Hopefully they will stay this time.
Also attached and old car mount stand for a Nokia bag phone to the side of the driver seat stand with an adjustable cup holder on the business end. Now I can position my cup exactly where I want it.