Where does one find out the wet weight of an RV?

[Chowan]

Ok, I know what the gcwr, gvwr, gawr f/r. but where do I find the overall wet weight of a MH so I can figure out how much I can put on board? Thanks for the help.

[J-Rooster]

I did the overall weight in my Winnebago W-22 Chassis one time when I bought it new in 2004. I filled all tanks, except for gray and black tank and I didn't weigh with my toad. And my RV was overweight. I never bothered to weigh it again.

[Chowan]

I am not saying we are going to purchase this rv, but this is what we looked at yesterday.
No matter what we get I need to know and understand how much I can load and pull with any DP.
Winnebago Solei.
GCWR 33,000
GVWR 27,910
GAWR 10,410
GAWR 17,500

So if I a understanding these numbers correctly I have approximately 5900 lb to play with which will have to include my toad?

[pianotuna]

After doing a weight session I found that my frame was not over loaded but the driver's rear duals were. I went to a different size rim and higher capacity tires.

You are right to be cautious. I'd insist they do a proper weigh off.

Total
front
back
and each tire.

The fuel tank may be along the center line, so you can distribute the weight side to side, but the fresh water and waste tanks may not be. Make a calculation based on their capacity and add it *all* to which ever side they are on.

Add the "people weight", too.

[tropical36]

Chowan wrote:
That is a great suggestion, but here is my problem. I do not own the RV. I have all the gross rated numbers, but I don't have the real weight of the coach. How can one find out how much a coach weighs. And thus make some important calculations on what size toad I need to buy and how much stuff I can load and still be with in the rated limits. I don't want to buy something only to realize what I want to do with it cannot be done. Know what I mean. Thanks

The only real way, is to post the exact model of coach, you're interested in and wait for a knowledgeable like owner to chime in.
For instance, this recent new to us purchase had plenty of CCC posted in the closet with it's specs. so, I never gave it another thought and I was right, except for one small problem, as this rating wasn't evenly distributed. As it turned out and after moving in, we found that we were over on the rear by 160lbs, even though we were more that a ton to the good on the front. No biggie, I guess and even though I'm most sure all our tanks weren't full.
Now here's the real ringer and I've since found out on the American Coach forums that many of the larger coaches with a tag axle are grossly overloaded on the front with some spending thousands for a heavier axle. Can't sue FW as they were in chapter 7 for most of this and you can't blame Spartan for instance, as they didn't build the house on top.
As for GCWR, I usually just subtract the difference from the GVWR and assume the the rig will be loaded to the max. Even at this, you can be overweight with the toad, IMO, as long as the frame and tow equipment is inspected for strength and durability. I say this because it's all calculated for the steepest and longest grades, so it's never noticed for the most part. When it is noticed on those long 6%k or more grades, it's usually the transmission that suffers and there's a lot you can do with that, if it should become a constant problem.

[Ivylog]

For many years CCC (wet weight plus people) was required to be posted... usually hidden behind a cabinet door. Often that # was very small so now they only have to post NCC leaving you to try and figure out CCC and then if you can put any of your stuff in.

CCC did not substract the weight of dealer installed items.

[darsben1]

THE GVWR would be the max weight of the unit (max wet weight) - dry weight = payload.
Look inside medicine cabinet or on a closet door somewhere.
If the motor home is not an orphan you might be able to call the manufacturer with the VIN and get the info you need.

[jrp]

in addition to the gross weight sticker items you mentioned, motorhome mfgs also provide a CCC cargo carrying capacity, and UVW unloaded vehicle weight(includes fuel, coolant, oil). Many times those are on a separate label glued inside one of the interior cabinet doors.
So the only other "wet" load is how many gals you decide to carry in your water, waste & propane tanks. that's controlled by you, not the mfg and should be calculated as part of your "cargo load".
most liquids weigh about 8 lbs per gal, and propane weighs about 4 lbs per gal.
Since the published CCC and UVW are based on avg assumptions and usually exclude any vehicle options, its always required to weigh your rig at a certified truck scale to confirm.
as for your toad size limit, that's usually controlled by the MH hitch rating. I've never seen a MH hitch rated high enough to allow you to exceed the GCVWR.

[Bill_Satellite]

No matter what you find or who owns it, I would require that prior to purchase you be allowed to weigh the coach. If the fresh water tanks are not full then add 8 pounds per gallon that needs to be added and 7 pounds per gallon for diesel (6 pounds for gas). In theory, as you empty the fresh tank you fill the black and grey so it's generally OK to use the weight with the black and grey empty but leaving a bit of a fudge factor is a really good idea.

[wildtoad]

Who has the rv, used, new! There should be a sticker in the rv which shows the weight as it left the factory with full fuel but empty tanks. From there you can make a better decision.

[Chowan]

That is a great suggestion, but here is my problem. I do not own the RV. I have all the gross rated numbers, but I don't have the real weight of the coach. How can one find out how much a coach weighs. And thus make some important calculations on what size toad I need to buy and how much stuff I can load and still be with in the rated limits. I don't want to buy something only to realize what I want to do with it cannot be done. Know what I mean. Thanks

[pianotuna]

Fill the tanks, load with the people going and take it to a weigh scale.

I chose to fill both waste tanks and the fresh water tank for a "worst case" scenario.