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Which fridge would you choose?

glennts
Explorer
Explorer
My Norcold N641 with a 7 yr old Amish cooling unit may have died. Started to get instant NoCo, dealt successfully with this in the past, but this time, even after a new board, cleaning the burner orifice, connections, testing the AC heating element, although there is not a repeat of NoCo there is no cooling. The outside of the boiler stack will burn you but the fins at the condenser top remain cool and the vertical pipe before the fins is hot but I suspect this is from rising hot air from the AC element. So apparently there is no circulation. Spent 6 mos to 9,000' and perhaps that messed up the coolant process??? Running a straight to AC for 24 hrs test to confirm it's the cooler.

In the mean time looking at 12v only units... plenty of solar and lipo4 to support it.

A new 7.7 Everchill is $849 + shippng.

A scratch and dent(door)8.2 Norcold N8DC is $1450 but can be had for $825 + shipping.

The Norcold is a perfect fit for the N641 space which gives it an edge.

Which would you choose?
12 REPLIES 12

glennts
Explorer
Explorer
So this is what I'm going to do. I could get a Norcold N8DC delivered to a local RV shop for $1514. A 1 year warranty. In looking over other 12v alternatives none will just drop into the N641 hole and some won't get thru the door and most will need some cabinet height adjustment. Keep hearing about Danfoss compressors but any brand I can find has only a 2 year warranty on the compressor.

Started to look at energy consumption and it is almost a wash between 12v and 120v as far as watts consumed. Ya, but the inverter loss they say. In my rig solar goes thru an MPP LV2424 to the 24v LiPo4's and inverted back out as 120v to the PD distro panel.. where it would be sent out as 120V or bucked down to 12v for use by a new 12v fridge. So no matter what, inverter loss is a given... and by staying with 120v could actually be more efficient than the 12v alternative. ( That's actually a question if you have an opinion.)

So now looking at an EnergyStar rated MagicChef. Have to do some remodeling to accommodate the height but that may have been unavoidable anyhow.

Almost 1/4 the price for 3 additional cu ft and a 5 year warranty on the compressor... and it will fit thru the door.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Magic-Chef-10-1-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-in-White-HMDR1000WE/302245066?MERCH=REC-_-pip_alternatives-_-313489925-_-302245066-_-N&#product-overview

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
The various propane powered RV absorption refrigerators (i.e. Norcold, etc.) are really great for quiet, low electricity consumption food preservation.

With one small change, they would be spectacular and about the ultimate solution for rain or shine, night and day RV food refrigeration: Suspend them inside the RV using flexible lines, in slightly larger cabinets, and with heavy duty gimbaled hanger systems that keep them constantly level.

What an invention that would be! :C
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

wguss
Explorer
Explorer
We replaced our working Norcold 611 refrigerator with a Vitrifrigo about 1 1/2 years ago. I was tired of worrying about keeping the rig level and since we live on somewhat of a hill, had to put the MH on ramps whenever we were loading it for a trip. We also tend to camp a lot in the mountains and often stop on a grade to photograph scenery or animals for hours. The unit uses the Danfoss compressor and is popular in the boating industry as well as RV. Even though it's the same size as our old Norcold, it has about 1 1/2 cubic feet more of space.

Vitrifrigo

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
glennts wrote:
It's gone. You don't suppose someone saw an opportunity when the scratch and dent Norcold was mentioned in this thread. Had wondered about the wisdom of posting but it's spilled milk now.

Lesson learned.


I don't think anyone would order a spare fridge. There are thousands of folks who have fridge failures.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

glennts
Explorer
Explorer
It's gone. You don't suppose someone saw an opportunity when the scratch and dent Norcold was mentioned in this thread. Had wondered about the wisdom of posting but it's spilled milk now.

Lesson learned.

Sandia_Man
Explorer II
Explorer II
Since pricing is similar due to scratch and dent Norcold, I would stick with absorption RV fridges as we have had excellent service from both Dometic and Norcold versions. We made sure over several rigs and 3 decades to purchase rigs where fridge was not in a slide. Been fortunate enough that we have never had a cooling unit go bad, even on fridges that were 20 years old.

The primary reason I would consider going with a 12Vdc or 120Vac compressor fridge is cost, I could literally buy 5 residential fridges for what it would cost ($5200 at PPL not including install) to replace our Norcold. With install and taxes nearly $6K is a bit tough to swallow, for certain we would go with an Amish cooling unit before resorting to compressor based versions.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
I tried a non-drop in a while ago. You don't want to try that too. Lots of work.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
At what voltage do these 12v fridges cut off at ?

I can see them cutting off at 11.8v to protect Wet cells / AGM’s but other batteries like lithium or Si02 allow them discharge lower.
My question is, would a fridge with a lower cut off be an advantage or better option using these types of batteries ?

Also, is it necessary to need a specific charger or converter to use with the Si02’s.
I have a PD4000 , not sure about charging specs of Si02’s.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
So far (1.5yrs full time), we are quite happy with the everchill that came with our rig.

The big advantage is it has drastically more interior space for the same size hole in the wall. It's a plus that it cools more quickly but not really a deal breaker either way.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
I agree the size that fits is the easiest install. Look into the amp draw of each model, then decide.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi definitely 12 volt.

I don't think the make is important-but a drop in replacement makes life easier.

I would go for SiO2 batteries, unless you roll your own Li and NEVER camp in coolish weather.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

bgum
Explorer
Explorer
Norcold if not damaged very bad.