ZEP/Red Max Pro

[firecopfl]

I have questions specific to my unit construction on using this to restore the finish. I've looked over this post ZEP/Red Max Pro and it appears it does wonders on older fiberglass units. Mine is aluminum with the exception of the rear fiberglass cap. I am wondering if anyone has applied this to a metal finish and if so how did it hold up? I want to do this to my entire unit and I know the results are in the prep work but I don't want to do this if its going to start peeling in 6mo or so. I'm willing to do maint coats every 3-6mo to keep it fresh if needed. I've attached a picture of my rig for review.



Again I appreciate all the help!

[firecopfl]

I just bought the RV and know my Sgt waxed it last year but it looks rough again. I'm not opposed to doing the unit once a year I just want the most bang for my work. It's going to be an all day affair I'm sure so I want the absolute best results. I've had very good luck with Meguires in the past and it's my first choice for my car and truck. I've done a little research int NuFinish also and am considering that.

[hershey]

If you do a search you will find that many users have had very good luck using it. Its not the only product that will give great results, its just one of the products that will give great results. But in answer to your question. I applied Red Max Pro to the basement doors on my 2001 MH 3 years ago and they came out looking great and still do look great.
With your MH being primarily metal, I'm assuming you've tried a good wax application? Meguires is a very good product that should give very good results. Thats all I used on my '57 Ford for years and of course it was inside all its later life, I couldn't have been happier with my results. Suggest you try a small panel for a self test and make up your own mind as to its worth. Do a similar panel close by with a good wax/polish and compare after a period of time.

[Daveinet]

The material underneath is completely irrelevant. ZEP is sticking to the paint, not the aluminum. My coach is painted with acrylic paint, which is the same thing gel coat is made from. Acrylic is a pretty popular paint on an older coach and probably a safe bet.

I did mine about 2 years ago and it is fine.

[Gjac]

I would be curious of the age and condition of the exterior surface of the MH's that Zeps was applied to and folks had problems with peeling. Acrylic as well as most materials do not adhere to very smooth or non porous surfaces. The strongest adhesives on the market need to have the surfaces sanded and solvent cleaned to get the adhesive to adhere. A highly oxidized porous surface of an older MH is a good surface for the Acrylic to soak into and adhere well. That why folks say it needs 3-4 coats, If one coat makes it look shiny it is probably not porous enough to adhere well. I read about folks putting it on a 5 year old MH and think unless it has not been taken care of it is not ready for the Acrylic floor wax.

[Dale_Traveling]

Should work on the painted aluminum but as suggested do a test area first. It's going to take a bunch of coats initially and for the first three or so will look pretty bad. Apply very lightly. Watch for runs, bubbles, missed dirt and bugs. Wax over them and they well be one with the coach until you stripe the coating off.

Be very careful with anything you use later to clean the coach or roof. Strong detergents will eat away at the coating and if it gets under it will cause flaking. No blue window cleaner, spray and wipe, bleach, strong cleaners, ammonia and such. I only use a mild dish soap to clean the bugs off the front or touch ups if necessary.

The image is my 8 year old coach was a wash and re-wax last weekend. Has spent it's entire life out in the weather. Three light coats is all that was needed to back to the factory shine. Fourth year with RMP and still using the original 1/2 gallon. Down to about a 1/3 remaining. It doesn't take much to get a shine. Also works on plastic head light lenses. Fills in the pitting and scratches that cause fogging. Adds a long lasting shine to the hard rubber trim around windows and windshield just don't get it on the glass.

[rgatijnet1]

TechWriter wrote:

hershey wrote:

Suggest you do a search for Red Max Pro/ZEP on this forum and decide.

OK. From previous threads, not lawyer speak, but actual experience from other users.

Peg Leg wrote:
I'm doing my cap now. I had the ZEP, won't do that again.

Dog Trainer wrote:
I used the Red Max and after 2 years the coach started to yellow. I had to get the s**t off and the finish back it was a big job.

timmac wrote:
Do not let the stripper sit to long because it will melt the fiberglass and turn it yellow . . . What I learned about the Zep wax is the hot desert sun will still shrink the stripes and the wax will turn white on those areas, only my south facing side had the issue, the north facing side no issues after 2 years.

Bumpyroad wrote:
I bought a couple of gallons of it when it was being cleared out and did use a little of it on my winnie before trading it, and the rest is still sitting in my garage. putting it on is easy, maintaining it is difficult.

larry barnhart wrote:
I also have some flaking on the entry side. Nobody has prepared any better than what I did or even close to the work I did. I still feel it is better than 2 to 3 wax jobs each year. I will have to wait until we arrive back home in April to correct the problem.
chevman

fizikpal wrote:

I had some flaking on the rear end of the coach which gets beat up by the sun. I used Zep floor striper. It was a major pain to remove the finish. The chemicals run before they loosen the wax.

chast wrote:
Been using this stuff for about five years now and have removed it several times.

royl wrote:
I did the Zep floor finish process on my motorhome last fall. It looked great but now I am in the desert southwest and the wax is turning white and peeling off only on the stripes on the sides of the motorhome. It is still fine on the white where it stays cooler but on the dark gray stripes it is peeling bad. Any ideas? How could I remove the wax on the stripes and not affect the white parts? I would hate to start a whole new process.

Weldon wrote:
My RMP started to flake last year. I washed it and put more RMP on. 4 coats, this year the flaking is worse. I do feel the prep was done correctly in the beginning. I have used Zep stripper to remove the old floor polish and it was quite a job getting it off. Also used some compound on it which helped. The ends which seem to be gel coat were the bad area for me, the filon sides did not show any flaking. Used Nufinish this time.

larry barnhart wrote:
I have had some flaking on the dark green decals.

[firecopfl]

ferndaleflyer wrote:
When I did my coach 3 years ago I did one panel on my race car trailer. It is aluminum painted white---it seems to have held up so far....As for the coach--That stuff is great!!!!!!

Exactly the response I needed! Is there a chance you can post a picture of it? I think I'm going to give it a go when I return from vacation in July. It'll be one of many weekend projects. I've just got to figure if the prep for fiberglass will be the same. I'm wondering if BKF will be too abrasive for the finish.

[ferndaleflyer]

When I did my coach 3 years ago I did one panel on my race car trailer. It is aluminum painted white---it seems to have held up so far....As for the coach--That stuff is great!!!!!!

[firecopfl]

I could care less if it's not designed for what I'll use it for I just need to know if anyone has experience applying it to an aluminum surface and if so was it corrugated or smooth aluminum. I want to make sure it'll adhere to the surface.

[Dutch_12078]

robsouth wrote:
I called the company (Zep) and a rep told me that the product is NOT designed to be used in an outdoor environment on any surface and specifically did not recommend it on fiberglass or metal that would be exposed to the weather. It is for various types of indoor floors that can be "heat" buffed regularly. Then he said, read the bottle for directions for use and they would assume no responsibility for any use not prescribed. I know a lot have used it, but, down the road somewhere, they will probably wish they had not. JMHO!

Yep, the typical "lawyer speak" used any time someone uses a product in a non-standard application.

[Bird_Freak]

About 2 years on mine and still looks good. We did a trailer for a friend that was alum. a year ago and it still looks good.

[robsouth]

I called the company (Zep) and a rep told me that the product is NOT designed to be used in an outdoor environment on any surface and specifically did not recommend it on fiberglass or metal that would be exposed to the weather. It is for various types of indoor floors that can be "heat" buffed regularly. Then he said, read the bottle for directions for use and they would assume no responsibility for any use not prescribed. I know a lot have used it, but, down the road somewhere, they will probably wish they had not. JMHO!

[Tom_M1]

Nu Finish was highly recommended by a Lazy Days dealer rep for restoring fiberglass. I have used on my cars but have not tried it on fiberglass. The stuff works great and is easy to apply and wipe off. It's available any place that sells auto supplies.

[gbopp]

I don't know I it can be used on metal painted surfaces.

ZEP/RMP did a great job on our 96 Southwind. Try it on your fiberglass rear cap, you will see what I mean.

Maybe you could try it on a small part of the metal. like a basement door.
I don't think I would use the BKF on the metal surfaces.

Let us know if it works on metal.

Maybe someone else has a better response.