Help needed on cleaning up a mess of TV cables on older rig!

[Squealers]

Hey all! (Please move if in the wrong area) I am getting back into RV'ing after a short hiatus. I am re-entering having purchased a 2006 Four Winds Hurricane 34N.

Good rig, and the 2 TV's have been changed out to flat screens.

However, the owner just set them up to run off of cable only, and there is a small silver splitter that sends the feed to the back TV. On top of that the rig has an original in motion sat on the roof which doesn't work today. The original switch box is long gone as it died several years ago.

The front TV cabinet looks like a spaghetti western!!! A huge rats nest. He stated he never used the batwing antenna, and I don't even know if the antenna wire is still routed in the cabinet, but it could be among the mess.

Here is what I want to do....and would love your advice on.
1. Eventually I may get a Dish tailgater, but not now. I won't be using the rig for a while (remodel in play). Should I prepare for this now? If so, how?

2. I want to get the TV cabinet organized,

3. I need to find the antenna feed. I need to get it operational, or connected so it picks up over the air stations. Whats the best way to do so short of tugging on the cable from the roof? Is it a different color or thickness?

4. My past rigs had an antenna power switch, but there is none to be found in the cabinet. Any ideas on why that may be? Will this be an operational issue?

5. I want to install a couple DVD's in the rig. I will need a switcher of sorts I am assuming to go from antenna to cable to dvd....any ideas on what is on the market today that would work for this? Hopefully one that would accommodate the future Dish option. What is everyone using who's had to do an upgrade like this? Do I need a modern switch of sorts? One of those black boxes that will allow options in viewing? IF so, one or two?

6. Would you remove the huge in motion dish up on the roof, or let lying dogs sleep? It is not creating a leak issue at all.

The seller left a cable tester device which should come in useful once I figure out how to use it lol.

Thanks for reading this long post, and I appreciate all input!

[Bill_Satellite]

Yes, the gray cable should go to the Batwing and the black coax should be Satellite. The end you found MUST either be connected to the wall plate labeled ANT and there will be 2 12V wires going to that same control board. From there the output labeled TV goes to the splitter and TV's. If you don't have a wall plate there would need to be a box with a variety of buttons (cable, TV, aux, Sat, etc) which also has 2 12V wires coming into the back. One way or another, there is some connection with a 12V connection allowing the 12V to run up the coax to the Batwing.

[Squealers]

Since posting, and while pulling out the big tube box that held the old TV I found the 2 wires coming from the roof into the component cabinet. One is gray coax, the other is black. Pulling out the end that was tucked behind the cabinet, it has a handwritten Sat Ant taped to it. It is the black coax coming from the roof. SO I am assuming the gray coax is the batwing. I will do the tests you suggest Bill. IN regards the the Ant power, I don't see a power option in the component cabinet for the antenna per say...I have a TrackVision switch that has a power button and a Sat Selection button. Should we assume the power button also powers the batwing antenna?...I know I can test that in the ways you mentioned...just spitballing before I have a chance to actually test it. I also have a panel that says To Satelite Receiver with an Input and Output connector. There are no switchers or boxes in the cabinet....just a rats nest of coax and the simple silver Walmart style coax splitter. Thanks for your help!!!!!

[Bill_Satellite]

The cable tester is where I would begin. You can also use a multi-meter if you are not sure how the cable tester works. Start with the Batwing as you will want OTA TV no matter what else you do. Inside the coach you will be looking for a wall plate with a tiny button or switch with a light that turns on and off as you push/slide it. This is the power supply for the Batwing antenna. There will be connections on the back for ANT, Cable and out to TV. There may also be a TV output on the front face. Get up on the roof and disconnect the coax from the Batwing. With a multimeter check to see if you are getting 12VDC by touching the center conductor and the outside collar with the probes. If not, you can connect the tester or short out the coax with a bit of foil. Go inside and find the other end of the coax and connect it to the wall plate that says antenna. You can do the same thing for the coax that comes from the cable connection (except there's no 12V, just trace the cable). The wall plate then becomes an A/B switch so you can choose to watch Cable or OTA TV with the push of a button.
The Out to TV on that wall plate should then give you a coax output to a splitter with one coax going to the TV close to the wall plate and the 2nd coax going to the 2nd TV which you might have to "tone" (trace) as well.
Good place to start and we can move on from there once you get that completed. It's not a hard job, it just takes a bit of time and patience.

[1492]

Moved from Forum Posting Help and Support

[CA_Traveler]

You may not be able to pre plan for all wiring. I removed inside cabinet panels held in place by brads and limited glue for wiring access. Reattached with screws.

When you route a wire through some area pull a string and leave in place for future wires.

[CA_Traveler]

Most modern TVs have multiple input capability. Hopefully a coax input for the batwing or cable TV. I would set up everything else for HDMI. For sat install coax to storage locker with a bullet connector. And HDMI from the controller to the TV. Use HDMI splitters for remote TVs as required.

I've always routed wiring unseen - ceiling, walls, storage areas and look for inside water routing that keeps water from freezing in the winter.

My sat box uses a RF remote which means it can be mounted out of sight. Many RV cabinets like mine have depth exceeding equipment depth. Mine is mounted vertically on a cabinet back that has adequate air circulation. My RF remote also has IR for basic TV control.

[ppine]

Remove the part you are not going to use.
Organize the cables and secure them with cable ties and one hole straps.