Testing water system psi when buying RV?

[path1]

Maybe I'm not searching right, I can't find anything?

Anybody know how the manufactures test for water leaks on the pressure side of plumbing?

For myself personally, every spring I test with air compressor. I put in 50 psi in the city water connection and watch the gauge. I figure if no air escapes (or gauge goes down) the same would be for water and I'm good to go.

I'm not really sure if that's enough psi or even if that's correct way to test.

How do you test, how do the manufacture test? Anybody know what spec's or any other info, greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Rick57]

Hello path1
Just throwing this in. If your RV is an older model you may want to make sure it has a built in water pressure restrictor. RV pluming is not like your home and can be damaged. If not I would suggest you buy a pressure resister that fits on your hookup hose. You can find these at you RV store.

[Clay_L]

Winnebago says they test at 85 psi. I don't know if that is with air or water.

Many RV parks have pressures in the 20 to 45 psi range - although some are in the 120 to 140 psi range.
In my motor home I keep my Watts whole house regulator set at 65 psi and have spent whole summers with a 120 psi supply regulated down to 65 psi with no problem.

That is also where my Watts house regulator is set. The town psi is about 135 psi and 65 psi is what the local plumbing companies recommend.

[myredracer]

You are testing correctly. Should hold the pressure steady for at 24 hours. Using an exterior pressure gauge is a good idea. Even better, mount a gauge inside.

Photo shows a gauge I added at hot water heater. Easy and inexpensive to do. Makes checking CG pressure easy. I use it a lot. Also installed a Watts 263A regulator inside along with a tell-tale gauge on the inlet side which shows the highest CG pressure I've encountered (80 psi so far).

RV manufacturers test the water systems to at least 100 psi. Not sure how long they let it sit. I run our pressure at 60 psi. Piping, fittings, etc. are rated 100 psi min. No difference between 50 psi air versus water. Many municipal building authorities call for a pressurized air test in residential water piping systems of 100 psi ( or thereabouts) and must hold steady for at least 24 hours.

The owner of waterfilterstore.com told me he recommends running 60 psi.

[NanciL]

Maybe just me, but I would never put 50PSI in my water pipes.

Jack L

[dodge_guy]

I only worry when I sanitize, which is in the spring and the middle of summer!

I leave the pump on. If it doesn't cycle on its own, I call it good. Our first trailer had a pump that would leak down very slow, about every 10-15 minutes it would run for a second.

[path1]

OP here...since original post and searching RV net I searched google.

Not much info on topic

Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

I doubt RV mfg.s bother with testing plumbing system.

They don't put water in tank and rigs are put together piece mill work.

If any plumbing leaks they will be found by new owner (hopefully during PDI) and then dealer would fix.......except most owners would probably find then on camping trip and fix themselves.

50# air pressure with gauge and no loss of pressure is a good method.
Heck of a lot drier if a leak happens then running water pump first time after winter storage.

[path1]

Veebyes wrote:
Use the water pump. If it cycles with nothing turned on there is a leak somewhere. Follow the pipes.

Yes, I do what you mention but not sure if water pump method is correct way or if there is a better way.

[Veebyes]

Use the water pump. If it cycles with nothing turned on there is a leak somewhere. Follow the pipes.