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Water too hot during Navy shower

Jbrowland
Explorer
Explorer
When taking Navy showers I click the little button to stop water flow to wash but when I turn it back on via the water flow button the water is extremely hot when it comes out for about 15-20 seconds and then returns to where I set it when I started the shower. Is this normal? If not, what could be causing this? The only thing I could think of is maybe the hot water pressure is stronger.

I haven't noticed yet if this happens while dry camping but it did happen when hooked up to water and electric. We use a pressure reg on the hose.

I can deal with this but my worry is fo my daughter.

Stumped. Thanks!
35 REPLIES 35

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
I have been thinking of installing check valves but I have read that check valves reduce the flow.

Would someone who has installed check valves that don't reduce the flow post a link to the valve. Thanks.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

RVhiker
Explorer
Explorer
As others did, I installed a check valve in the cold water line (as close as possible to the shower faucet) and completely eliminated the problem of scalding hot water at first when turning on the shower head valve.
There's lots of advice and information in forums...
sometimes it is correct.

2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2008 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab; Duramax/Allison; Pullrite 14k Superglide Hitch

Jbrowland
Explorer
Explorer
toedtoes wrote:
whiteeye42 wrote:
toedtoes wrote:
If you're worried about scalding, why not lower the temp setting on the hot water heater? And that way your daughter won't scald herself by accidentally turning on only the hot water either.

this is a little hard to do since not all rv water heaters have an adjustable temp setting most are fixed settings


All mine have had low, medium and hot. Didn't realize these newfangled RVs are lacking such a simple thing... :S :B
Having a setting dial would make too much sense now wouldn't it? ๐Ÿ˜‰

toedtoes
Explorer III
Explorer III
whiteeye42 wrote:
toedtoes wrote:
If you're worried about scalding, why not lower the temp setting on the hot water heater? And that way your daughter won't scald herself by accidentally turning on only the hot water either.

this is a little hard to do since not all rv water heaters have an adjustable temp setting most are fixed settings


All mine have had low, medium and hot. Didn't realize these newfangled RVs are lacking such a simple thing... :S :B
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

mdamerell
Explorer
Explorer
I use the shut off on the Oxygenic when bathing the GB (4 yrs old) to keep the water in the shower while she lathers up. Have not had issues with a hot or cold blast. The Oxygenic was a good investment in my book.
2012 Sundance 3100RB w/Reese Goose Box
2004 Ford F350 6.0 L PSD, CC, DRW, long bed, B&W drop ball hitch, Firestone Ride-rite air bags.

whiteeye42
Explorer
Explorer
toedtoes wrote:
If you're worried about scalding, why not lower the temp setting on the hot water heater? And that way your daughter won't scald herself by accidentally turning on only the hot water either.

this is a little hard to do since not all rv water heaters have an adjustable temp setting most are fixed settings
Me,Wife two boys and two dogs
2008 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 DRW 6.7 cummins
2008 Jayco Eagle 341 RLQS 37' with B&W turnover ball & companion hitch
using rotochoks
add state map

Jbrowland
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks as usual everyone for your responses. Always nice to get seasoned food for thought so to speak.

I don't think my water heater is adjustable. Just checked. I wish it were that easy!

So to those of you who "upgraded" to the oxygenic style shower head. The product claims to dribble water while water is restricted thus avoiding a hot or cold blast of water when one turns the flow restrictor off during a Navy shower. Is this reality? If so, this seems to solve my issue for about $30 if it works as advertised.

toedtoes
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you're worried about scalding, why not lower the temp setting on the hot water heater? And that way your daughter won't scald herself by accidentally turning on only the hot water either.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
When I dry camp which is 95% of the time I turn my water heater on 10 mins before I want to take a shower in the summer and 20 mins in the fall. I don't camp in the winter up north. I use the hot water valve only so there is no variation in temperature when you shut the facet off to soap up or turn it back on to rinse off. In addition to not getting burned with hot water you save water when dry camping along with propane(although not to main reason for doing this). I can get two showers before the water starts to cool off.

mdamerell
Explorer
Explorer
Bird Freak wrote:
I solved it by not taking navy showers when hooked up.


X2 - I took "Navy showers" when in the Navy, I no longer desire to. A nice shower is a luxury I allow myself.

Back on subject: Our Oxygenic drips when you flip the "shut off button" to prevent this.
2012 Sundance 3100RB w/Reese Goose Box
2004 Ford F350 6.0 L PSD, CC, DRW, long bed, B&W drop ball hitch, Firestone Ride-rite air bags.

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
Dutch_12078 wrote:
I solved both the hot and cold shower restart issue (two different motorhomes) by installing check valves where the water lines connect to the shower faucets. The problem occurs because one line or the other has a slightly higher pressure than the other, probably due to upstream fixtures, so when you turn off the shower head valve, the higher pressure line forces its source back down the other line for some distance until they equalize. The check valves prevent the backfeeding. I used PEX check valves from Watts/Sea Tech that required just cutting the lines and pushing the ends into valve bodies. Just make sure the arrows are pointing towards the faucets.

How about a link? :@
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

Passin__Through
Explorer
Explorer
Have you thought about adding a check valve to each line on the other side of the shower wall (if accessible)? That would prevent backflow by the hot water into the cold water line.
2008 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax 4x4 CCSB; Superglide 16k hitch w/3" lift kit; Titan 52-gallon replacement fuel tank :C
2007 HitchHiker II LS 26.5RLBG Mor/Ryde pinbox:B

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
I solved it by not taking navy showers when hooked up.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
We love 56 T-Birds

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
I installed check valves as well and got the transition time down to about 1 second.

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
I solved both the hot and cold shower restart issue (two different motorhomes) by installing check valves where the water lines connect to the shower faucets. The problem occurs because one line or the other has a slightly higher pressure than the other, probably due to upstream fixtures, so when you turn off the shower head valve, the higher pressure line forces its source back down the other line for some distance until they equalize. The check valves prevent the backfeeding. I used PEX check valves from Watts/Sea Tech that required just cutting the lines and pushing the ends into valve bodies. Just make sure the arrows are pointing towards the faucets.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate