2002 Jeep Liberty - 6 pin wiring harness?

[travelingbard]

Hi all! Getting our 2002 Jeep Liberty LTD ready to tow. I don't like the idea of having to disconnect the battery on long hauls to prevent drain (have to leave key in to have wheel unlocked), so I'm considering the 6-pin cable instead of 4 so we can supply a battery charge from the RV.

The 4-pin is a no-brainer (RV already has the jack installed), but since I'm doing a fresh install on the Jeep, this would be the time to do the 6-pin and just upgrade what's on the RV.

Anybody know if there are issues/problems doing a 6-pin on this year range Liberty, or special considerations/problems to watch out for?

Thanks for any advice!
Chris

[RJsfishin]

A no brainer, do as John Wane said. Jeep even leaves a spot on the tailite assy to drill, and snap in a light socket from Napa Auto. It worked on my '05 jeep Liberty, and again on my current '12 Liberty.

Draining battery ?? My '05 just turn key to 1st position to unlock steering, did not drain the battery.

[travelingbard]

Looks like this kit (or the similar kits) would be fairly straightforward to install. Wondering if instead of having to run all of this to the back and installing diodes back there, is there a place in the front to just tap into all the light wiring at one location to avoid the redundant wiring (just using the existing wiring but tapping into it under the hood)?

Thanks everyone!

[Hikerdogs]

Roadmaster makes a wiring kit. We used it to wire up our 2004 Jeep Wrangler. We use the 154 Universal wiring kit with 4 Hy-Power Diodes. They also make the 155 Bulb and socket kit. I replaced the 4 wire plug with a 7 wire plug I got at a local auto parts store

Both kits are available from e-trailer
Wiring & diode Kit:
http://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/Roadmaster/RM-154.html

Light kit with bulbs:
http://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/Roadmaster/RM-155.html

[phays]

As John Wayne says. I pulled the lens off and drilled a hole in the bottom section of the tail lights on my 2006 Liberty.

There is a large grommet on the firewall, drivers side slightly above the bottom of the dash that you can use to run wires, etc to the interior of the vehicle. On mine, I have the air line for the Air Force One brake cylinder, wire from brake switch that I run to coach so I can see when the brake pedal in the Jeep is depressed, and the tow wires for the tail lights. Once the wires are inside the vehicle, you can run them under the door molding to the rear and then behind the side panel to the tail lights. The floor molding at the rear door area just pops up making it easy to run wires from one side to the other.

pete
2000 Country Coach
Jeep 2006 Liberty

[travelingbard]

Fortunately, mine is 13 years old (2002 model), so no warranty issues to worry about.
I'm not looking for the cheapest or easiest solution, necessarily, just the best solution, which looks to be using the Jeep's own lighting. I don't mind installing what needs to be installed as far as wiring, but I want some insight from anyone that has done the same with something more than a basic 4 pin wiring kit.
Thanks for the replies so far, everyone!
Chris

[tropical36]

John Wayne wrote:
Pull your brake lights on my 2012 the bottom of the light (red lens) had a plastic area I drilled out and was able to install a 2 filament bulb (for brake and directional) then ran 4 strand wire from front plug to tail lights no diodes needed. Used 7 wire cord from MH to toad 7 pin plug.

And yet another way to keep the lighting system isolated from the toad wiring, but many don't like even being that invasive and especially with a brand new vehicle. Also, some tail lights don't provide you with the room to install a separate bulb. If this is to be the plan, though, then I'm most sure that blue ox or other has the kit.

[John_Wayne]

Pull your brake lights on my 2012 the bottom of the light (red lens) had a plastic area I drilled out and was able to install a 2 filament bulb (for brake and directional) then ran 4 strand wire from front plug to tail lights no diodes needed. Used 7 wire cord from MH to toad 7 pin plug.

[tropical36]

travelingbard wrote:

tropical36 wrote:

I have suggested this many times before, but with your particular toad, I would just make up a light bar for the hitch receiver or use a hitch haul itself for mounting the lights. I like the hitch haul better, as it's ready for the receiver and gives you some extra cargo space if needed during your travels.
Run some cable wiring from your umbilical outlet on the front to a connector on the rear (through the frame works well) that you can plug into with this removable unit. Now, you're completely isolated from the Jeep's wiring and one that didn't require any invasive procedure's or mods to the vehicle's internal wiring. With the last one we did for a friend, he was also able to plug into it with his trailer connector, when not towing and utilize the extra lighting.

Thanks for the reply. That wouldn't work in my situation, as we'll often use the Liberty's hitch for a bike rack, plus I need to be able to trickle charge the battery on the Jeep (steering lock, so key has to be turned for towing, and battery drains - not willing to do battery disconnect or mods to steering lock).
Thanks.

You might look into mounting the lights with a on the bike rack then, using a mod or two. As for the wiring, the only wires you would run to the rear connector, would be for the tail, stop and turn signals and a flat connector back there to match, works well. The other wiring on your 7 pin can be routed at will, including a charge wire for the toad's battery.

[Hank85713]

Harbor freight has the magnetic lights that can be put on a bracket and be used. They also have a 4 wire harness that you can run along the frame to the rear if you go with the mag lights. My BIL uses the same type of lights but has them on a bar with some feet that he holds down with bungee cords. Seems to work well.

We had CW install the light kit on our Hyundai which is kinda like the HF wire harness and then it taps into the built harness with diodes and you use the vehicles bulbs. No issues I think it runs about $100 for the kit.

[travelingbard]

tropical36 wrote:

I have suggested this many times before, but with your particular toad, I would just make up a light bar for the hitch receiver or use a hitch haul itself for mounting the lights. I like the hitch haul better, as it's ready for the receiver and gives you some extra cargo space if needed during your travels.
Run some cable wiring from your umbilical outlet on the front to a connector on the rear (through the frame works well) that you can plug into with this removable unit. Now, you're completely isolated from the Jeep's wiring and one that didn't require any invasive procedure's or mods to the vehicle's internal wiring. With the last one we did for a friend, he was also able to plug into it with his trailer connector, when not towing and utilize the extra lighting.

Thanks for the reply. That wouldn't work in my situation, as we'll often use the Liberty's hitch for a bike rack, plus I need to be able to trickle charge the battery on the Jeep (steering lock, so key has to be turned for towing, and battery drains - not willing to do battery disconnect or mods to steering lock).
Thanks.

[tropical36]

travelingbard wrote:
Thanks for all the info! Looks like I'm going to try and go with the 7 pin. That will cover me if I ever get a car trailer with brakes as well.

So, anybody specifically wired up a 2002 (or close year) Jeep Liberty? Having a hard time finding a "kit" with everything, so I guess I'll have to put together everything I need - harnesses, diodes, blah blah blah... I'm checking the Jeep forums as well, but not seeing much info!

Thanks again!
Chris

I have suggested this many times before, but with your particular toad, I would just make up a light bar for the hitch receiver or use a hitch haul itself for mounting the lights. I like the hitch haul better, as it's ready for the receiver and gives you some extra cargo space if needed during your travels.
Run some cable wiring from your umbilical outlet on the front to a connector on the rear (through the frame works well) that you can plug into with this removable unit. Now, you're completely isolated from the Jeep's wiring and one that didn't require any invasive procedure's or mods to the vehicle's internal wiring. With the last one we did for a friend, he was also able to plug into it with his trailer connector, when not towing and utilize the extra lighting.

[travelingbard]

Thanks for all the info! Looks like I'm going to try and go with the 7 pin. That will cover me if I ever get a car trailer with brakes as well.

So, anybody specifically wired up a 2002 (or close year) Jeep Liberty? Having a hard time finding a "kit" with everything, so I guess I'll have to put together everything I need - harnesses, diodes, blah blah blah... I'm checking the Jeep forums as well, but not seeing much info!

Thanks again!
Chris

[John_Wayne]

I don't think that make a 6 pin think it's 4, 5, 7, Go with the 7

[tropical36]

anconn wrote:
Go to the 7pin connection. It is a far more reliable one than the 6.

I was going to suggest this also and this way you can just wire it pin for pin and have an umbilical cord that's the same on both ends.
Would have done this with my install, except that the umbilical and connector came with the COOLTECH wiring harness I ordered for our Wrangler. Afterwards I decided on a couple of more pins for positive toad brake indication, so just strapped it on the side of the umbilical and kept this separate from the rest of the lighting and maybe for the best, since I had to run a separate cable back to the third brake light, anyway.
Story short, it never hurts to have a spare or two.
The OP might also look into having the steering lock removed and be rid of it for good. Our Jeep never had one in the first place, so don't have that problem.