Base plate broke

[avan]

I bought my current toad, used, about 3 yrs ago. It was already equipped with a Blue Ox base plate, proper wiring etc. and with a BO tow bar. The first year I replace the tow bar with new as the old one was 'loose' and BO (at the factory) deemed it nearly as expensive to replace all the badly worn parts as a new one. I should have paid some attention to the base plate but I didn't - didn't even really know what one looked like. Over the past 3 yrs, there have been no accidents nor even any 'bumps' to the front end of my car.

Fast forward to this past Monday. I'm traveling for the summer and stopped at the Walmart in Ellsworth, ME to shop. Load my groceries, do a quick walk around (habit) and start up the MH. Turn the wheel for a gentle right to get out of my parking spot and start going forward when there is a loud grinding, crunching sound. Check my camera and see the whole driver's side of the front bonnet of the car on the ground with the passenger side barely hanging on.

Fast forward a bit. Got the car to Ellsworth Collision. Base plate broken on the driver's side where the base bar makes the turn to attach to the frame which caused the base plate to twist and pull the front end of the car off. So I called Blue Ox and ordered a new base plate for the car to be sent to the collision shop overnight/morning delivery. UPS barely made it delivering it by 11:45 am and by 3pm Ellsworth Collision had it installed, all the wiring put back together (correctly) and the front of the car completely put back together without a scratch (less that $300 total labor). What a great job they did!!!

The point of this post. They showed me the broken base plate. At the point of the break, the length of the break was about 4" long and of that 4", 3 7/8" of the break was completely and well oxidized. The bright (non oxidized) metal along the break line was perhaps an 1/8 or 3/16th of an inch long. That bar had been broken for a long long long time with the car really being held by a very minimum thickness of steel. I am so thankful I was in a parking lot and not doing 65mph on a highway.

DO - when buying a used toad that is already set up, have someone who knows what they're doing (as in not a car dealer) inspect the integrity of the hidden from view base plate. DO always have a valid breakaway brake. Disaster may be only one dumb luck away.

[j-d]

BlueOx gear has that exquisite engineering. Quick disconnect towing tabs... Roadmaster is more like something a welder buddy would build out of stuff laying around. Name of Overkill Bill - If 1/4" material will do, use 3/8". Ain't pretty but it won't break. They finally got around to quick release tabs, and some of the newer RM gear doesn't require a cross bar. I sure don't enjoy the install/remove process on that snowplow frame twice a trip.

[Dutch_12078]

lryrob9301 wrote:
Why is it every time I read one of these baseplate or towbar failure posts. here or on other RV sites, it's always a Blue OX product? I have never seen one that detailed a Demco or Roadmaster failure.....

I've seen failures posted of all three brands, but you're right, Blue Ox seems to dominate. Then again, as you wander around various campgrounds, check out the toads and see how many Blue Ox setups you see compared to the others. The Blue Ox easily removed twist-lock horn setup is very popular due to the almost invisible look when not towing.

[Motor_City_Swag]

Did you discuss this failure with Blue Ox? They may be able to help understand why the failure occurred. The other question I have is was when your tow bar is connected to the motorhome on level ground is your tow bar level? You should always make sure your tow bar is as close to level a possible.

[lryrob9301]

pauldub wrote:

lryrob9301 wrote:
Why is it every time I read one of these baseplate or towbar failure posts. here or on other RV sites, it's always a Blue OX product? I have never seen one that detailed a Demco or Roadmaster failure.....

There was a recent post about a Demco failure.

If it's the one I read a while back the failure was due to the frame horn of the vehicle breaking not the baseplate. Or if it was about the tow bar that supposedly failed it was due to the latch pin falling out, the bar itself didn't fail.

[pauldub]

lryrob9301 wrote:
Why is it every time I read one of these baseplate or towbar failure posts. here or on other RV sites, it's always a Blue OX product? I have never seen one that detailed a Demco or Roadmaster failure.....

There was a recent post about a Demco failure.

[lryrob9301]

Why is it every time I read one of these baseplate or towbar failure posts. here or on other RV sites, it's always a Blue OX product? I have never seen one that detailed a Demco or Roadmaster failure.....

[j-d]

Question: Is that cross piece made of angle material? I first thought it was square tubing.

Thanks again for posting. I can see where you'd want to call it done and move on.

[avan]

You're welcome. I posted not only thinking that maybe we ought to inspect our out of sight, out of mind base plates every year or two but also I don't often read postings that answer questions for newbies about the importance and necessity of breakaway brakes. S... happens.

[j-d]

The broken driver side bracket in the third picture clearly shows how the assembly bolts to the Vue's frame, three bolts on each side, ABOVE the square tube cross piece that carries the Attachment Tabs. BUT there is nothing BELOW the square cross tube. Every Start, Stop, and Jiggle caused a twisting tendency in that cross piece. And nothing below the tube to counter that torque. Broke where I thought it could, from looking at the parts drawing and picture 11-B in BX3317 Instructions, before Avan posted the pictres.

The steel "crystallized" from repeated stressing, and failed like it was cut with a saw. I saw that on a boat trailer coupler. Came off like it'd been cut with a band saw.

Avan, THANKS for posting the situation and the details. It'll help us all to be more vigilant.

[avan]

you asked - where did it break? Pics might tell the story better than my words


On the hoist with the parts that were pulled off


pic of base plate. You can see the break on the right side


Close of the break. Note (at the >>>>) the only non oxidized portion along the break. The majority of the break had occurred a long time ago such that it was all oxidized.


All put back together. Evidence that an extremely slow speed incident doesn't cause too much damage and, at the right shop, time to repair (3 hrs) and costs are light. 🙂

[j-d]

I'm looking at the install instructions. Where'd it fail, where one of the L-shaped end, meets the square tube cross piece?

Dutch, the instructions show 36" permanent cables, wrapping around the square tube cross piece and what looks like a vehicle front cross member behind it.

I noticed where Blue Ox calls out the height and spacing of the Attachment Tabs. This is VERY USEFUL in choosing a base plate that brings the tow bar closest to level with the draw bar on the coach.

[avan]

BX3317

[j-d]

What Blue Ox baseplate number did you get as your replacement?

We started out with a towbar and base plate outfit called Duncan. (On a historical note, Duncan had a patent on the first folding towbar, which was bought by the originators or Roadmaster.) The whole Duncan business was bought out by Automatic Equipment, better known to us a Blue Ox.

Anyhow, one way or another, we transitioned to Roadmaster. Falcon MoHo mounted towbar, and Roadmaster baseplates on first our Nissan Frontier and now Toyota Corolla.

This morning, after reading about two recent tow rig failures See "Hitch Pin Broke" I took an oath which I have just fulfilled: Inspect and Tighten Base Plates and Trailer Hitch. I'm sweaty but they're done.

Please, from a safety and a Biblical perspective: Luke 10:37b: "Go and do likewise."

[avan]

Dutch, don't know and since I'd never heard of those, didn't even think to ask the shop. Those would sure be add'l "insurance".