nevadanick wrote:
Thank You, i am very capable of doing the work just never used a diode or understood what they did until now. I ordered the M&G today and the base plate and Aventa tow bar are already on their way. Inappreciate the time you have taken to help me with this.
You're quite welcome Sir. I get a bit long winded sometimes in my explanations but, I always want to make sure that my thoughts or, what I'm trying to explain at the time, has NO GRAY areas. Let me know if I can help any further.
Scott
nevadanick wrote:
Thank You very much. I am certainly capable of the work but the diode thing is something i know nothing of and i am not afraid to say when i dont know. Are diodes a certain size or value ? And are they directional ? what would i buy and where for diodes ? I appreciate the help you are giving me.
Nevadanick,
For all practical purposes and, in reality, a diode is a ONE WAY VALVE for electricity. Electricity can travel one way in a wire with a diode, but not the other direction. So, for an example. You "T" into your left turn/brake light wire of your new GMC, just before it enters the tail light housing, maybe a few inches away. Now, you hook up to your coach and, apply the left turn signal in the coach.
The electrical signal being sent from the turn signal handle on the steering column travels through the coach, through the umbilical and, enters that "T" you just did. For simpler analogy, I'll call it an intersection. That signal, hits that intersection and, it can turn right and, enter the tail light and function as requested.
But, because it hit an intersection of wiring, electricity CAN go both ways, right AND left. So, it turns left too. But, as soon as it hits that diode you installed, it cannot go any further. And, to answer another part of your questions, YES they are directional. When installed, you have to install them so they are facing the correct way.
Because, when you're driving your new GMC, and apply the left turn signal, that electricity travels down the wiring from the steering column through the wiring and, because you installed the diode correctly, it will travel right THROUGH that diode and, into the left tail light and function as normal.
So, that's how all that works. Now, where to purchase them. Well, normally I'd advise you to run down to your local Radio Shack and, pick up what you need. But, in recent months, Radio Shack has announced it will be closing the remainder of it's stores, permanently. I don't know where you're located so, you may or, may not have any still open near you. Most likely not.
Now, you can also buy them on line from ebay or, Amazon all day long. Amazon has a 20 pack of 10 amp ones for about $5.00 or so and a couple dollars shipping. You won't need that many but, it never hurts to have a couple extras JUST IN CASE one goes bad or, you screw one up during installation.
And, speaking of installation. A diode has "Band" painted all the way around the negative end. Usually, it's a black diode with a silver band. The way it's installed is, the band is the "Stop sign". So, you'd install it in your GMCs wiring in such a manner that, it will STOP the signal from the coach, from traveling forward to the rest of the GMC. In other words, the band end, will be closest to the tail light.
If you look at the diode icons in my diagram, you'll see an arrow and a line. The arrow indicates the direction normal flow of electricity. While the line, represents the band, and, it will block electricity from entering the diode and traveling the wrong way.
Now, as I stated before, I'm not a big fan of spending 5 times the amount needed for this little project but, you can also purchase a "Diode kit" from RV supplies houses like Camping World or, any other local Hitch sales/Trailer supplies etc. Those are normally around $25.00 for a two-pack. They're self explanatory in installation instructions. They are also equipped with female spade connectors so, no soldering is needed or done. Your choice on that one.
A diode is a diode. If you pay $1.50 or, $25.00, you're still installing the same thing. If you're capable of doing a little wire stripping and, some neat little soldering, the $1.50 way makes quite a bit more sense, excuse the pun. Hope this answers your questions.
Scott
nevadanick wrote:
2014 Tiffin Red 38QRA,2015 GMC 4wd crewcab standard bed SLT Z71 with some other options. I contacted them and they make one for it. So did you tap into the wires at the back of the truck ?
Thank you Sir for getting back with that info. This way, if I know if any info I'm giving you will pertain to the right type of coach/engine/chassis. Yes, I did tap into the tail light wiring, right at the left rear tail light. Here's a brief description of how I do it.
1. Run the wires from the plug on the front of the toad, up into the engine bay, but down as low as possible, along the frame, paying close attention to moving parts. i.e. steering parts, suspension parts etc.
2. Continue along the frame, when applicable, intermingle with existing wires etc. that are in the same area, all the time, wire-tying at various intervals.
3. Keep running them along the frame, up and over the rear diff and, finally up into the left rear corner of the bed.
4. Remove left tail light.
5. Locate the Combo left turn/brake light wire by probing. Note here, some folks frown on probing wires with a test light. They claim it does damage and, can lead to intrusive corrosion etc. at the probe point. Well, I've only been doing that procedure for a few decades, (around four) and, I've never, EVER seen any or, encountered any damaged wires, faulty circuits, light bulbs, anything, due the probing of the wires to that circuit.
6. Now, here's the technical stuff. Without cutting the combo turn/brake wire, I strip a small section, about 1/2" worth. I then "T" into/onto that stripped section with the appropriate wire from the plug up front. I wrap it around the stripped section tightly and, apply a small amount of solder. I then wrap it all with good quality electrical tape. DONE.
7. Just below that "T" you just made, I do cut the combo/turn wire and, this is where I insert a diode. And, just to be clear, I do not use those fancy, huge diode blocks from Camping World or, any other RV supply house. I use regular old Radio Shack high amp diodes. They usually cost a whopping $3 or $4 bucks per 4-pack. I get the largest ones they sell.
Now, that circuit, left turn/brake, is done. Now, for the running lights. Locate the running light wire via probing action or, if you already know which one it is, then you strip it, just like for the combo left turn/brake wire. You "T" into it and, apply solder, wrap, you're done. No diode is needed in that line. The reason I don't install a diode in that circuit is because the running lights from the coach, illuminate ALL the running lights on the toad, and that includes the front ones too. (not the headlights).
Having the fronts illuminated, does not bother me at all. In fact, it's a reminder that my system is at work. If the illumination of the front marker lights would bother you, then you can add a diode in the same position as you did with the combo turn/brake wire.
Now, for the right side. Here is where I need to extend one of the wires that you ran along the frame to the left tail light. I run it along the back side lower part of the bed, and tie it along the way. I then remove the right tail light and, tap into the right turn/brake light wire and, do all of the same tactics as you did on the left side. DONE!
Now, you're completely done. I'm not one of those that wires in diodes to the incoming wires from the coach to protect the coach lighting system, should the toad lights be activated prior to disconnecting the umbilical from the two. The wife has done it several times. She's got in the truck, started it up and, before I got a chance to un plug the umbilical.
Guess what, the coach lights lit up, and, it did not BURN TO THE GROUND, contrary to popular belief. You can install them if you like.
I'm including a simple diagram I drew up when I wired our '11 Honda CRV in the same manner. The primary difference in that toad, as opposed to many other toads I've done is, the CRV has independent AMBER turn signals. For that, you'll see in the diagram, a "2 wire to 3 wire tail light converter". I won't bother going into that, unless you ask.
But, you'll see it in the diagram. DO NOT PAY ATTENTION TO IT. It's only there for folks that want to wire up the amber turn signals to work correctly while you're towing your toad. When you look at the diagram, just picture the combo left turn/brake, coming from the coach, "Teeing" into the combo left turn/brake of the trucks wiring. Any questions? Feel free to ask.
Scott
nevadanick wrote:
I looked at that and it says 1500hd only. I will contact them. Thanks for the input.
Sorry, you didn't say which model of "crew cab" you purchased. You still didn't say what coach you have. WHAT is your coach?
As far as lights, well, I do it the same way, each and every time I wire a toad. I utilize the toads own tail lights and bulbs, for toad lights. It's actually quite simple and, the best part is, when someone is following your toad, while you're towing it, the tail lights act the same exact way while towing it, as they do when you're driving it. That includes the third brake light.
Scott
nevadanick wrote:
I was going to have a van converted to 4wd but bought this instead. All the brake systems out there are making my head spin. Who is towing a fullsize pickup and what do you use ? If it was a small car it wouldnt matter as much.
Well Sir,
I've used the Ready Brake for a few years but, I just changed over to the M & G Brake system. I should have done that years ago. Now, you don't say what kind of coach/make/model/engine/trans you have but, being that you're going to tow an almost 6,000 lb. truck, I'd just about guess it's a diesel. If so, than it's most likely got air brakes, pretty good assumption huh?
Anyway, the M & G Braking system, especially for diesel/air braked coaches, is about as easy of an install as you can get. And, once it's all done, there's NO ADJUSTMENT AT ALL. It's a completely proportional braking system. The only thing between your coach and the toad is an air line.
One of the really good points about this system is, IT DOES NOT PUSH ON THE BRAKE PEDAL!! And that means, it will not activate your brake lights on the toad. You're then free to utilize all your stock tail lights on the GMC as toad lights if you desire too and, there will be no conflict from coach signals and, GMC brake pedal signals at the same time.
Which, by the way would probably be non-existent anyway due to the fact that you have to disconnect the GMC's negative battery cable anyway when getting ready to tow. Anyway, below are some pics of the install of the M & G Braking system on our '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4. The whole installation of the two components, one on the Coach and one on the truck, took be about two-three hours, tops. Believe me, you'll like it.
Scott
