Electric or surge brakes - What are the considerations?

[SteveWoz]

I recently purchased my first Class A motorhome and I'm in the process of shopping for a two-wheeled dinghy to tow a front-wheel-drive Nissan Altima. I've been told that trailer brakes aren't essential because the RV has enough braking capability to stay within the margin of safety but I'm opting for brakes anyway. Does anyone have an opinion about which type of brakes - electric or surge - are preferable? With limited knowledge, I'm guessing that electric brakes will require some sort of connection to a controller in the cabin but I could be mistaken. Thank you in advance for your time and sharing of expertise.

[Horsedoc]

Surge brakes most simple. The harder you brake, the more the trailer (dolly) pushes and brakes itself harder. Backing up a grade may cause the surge to brake since the weight will be pushing against the cylinder that activates the brakes. No controller like electic brakes

Electric brakes don't have that problem. Light or no load on a trailer (dolly) can cause the brakes to just stop the wheels from turning because there is little or no weight on it and no resistance to the braking effect. The controller must be adjusted to match the load you are trying to stop.

[SteveWoz]

Thanks to all who answered for sharing your expertise. Although I like the convenience of surge brakes, I think I'm going to retrofit a trailer with electric brakes and a wireless controller.

[STBRetired]

I used to have a Master Tow dolly with surge brake. It worked very well. For gentle stops, the motorhome brakes do most of the work. If you need to apply the brakes hard, the surge brakes activate and you can definitely feel the difference. Electric brakes would require a 7 pin connection instead of a 4 pin connection and would require a brake controller be installed in the MH.

[gbopp]

SteveWoz wrote:
I recently purchased my first Class A motorhome and I'm in the process of shopping for a two-wheeled dinghy to tow a front-wheel-drive Nissan Altima.

The OP is talking about a Tow Dolly (two wheeled dinghy). The ReadyBrake will not work.

Personally, I would want surge brakes on the dolly.

[wildtoad]

I’m with Big Katuna on the Ready Brake. When I had a Chevy Sonic as my toad, I had an older electric/pneumatic portable system which required electric. The task of taking it in and out anytime we wanted to use the car was a pain. When I swapped the Sonic for the Jeep, getting the portable unit in and out was harder due to the tight fit. I took the opportunity to ditch it (its now in my storage unit) and got the Ready Brake. Simply insert the Ready Brake into receiver, towbar into the Ready Brake and the hard “work” is done. I was able to hook the cable to the Jeeps brake pedal and front of the Jeep in less than 1/2 hour and all is done.

I’d give the Ready Brake system a hard look.

[Bionic_Man]

For electric brakes, you will need to have a controller wired in at the dash of the motorhome.

While not in a towed, I have plenty of experience in both surge and electric, and I would choose electric hands down.

They have the advantage of allowing you more control. If the towed vehicle ever starts to fish tail, you can reach down and apply a little brake to stop it. There is no worry with backing up (without either a lock out device or a trailer with a wired in solenoid, you can't back up with surge brakes). With surge brakes, the tongue of the trailer has to move some to allow them to activate. So every time you pull forward, you will get a little bit of a jolt as the tongue moves out from being compressed. And while not common, if you are going down a pass and the weight shifts forward from a downshift, it can activate the surge brakes without you intending to do so.

In my mind, the only advantage to surge is the fact that you can tow it with any vehicle, and not have to add an electric brake controller.

[Big_Katuna]

I’m happy with my Ready Brute tow bar with a built in surge brake. You install a cable once through the firewall and after that you hook up the tow bar, connect a cable between the tow bar and cable to the brake pedal and go. No box to put in and out, no electrical connections. Very simple and easy to connect. Simple is a good thing.

There website explains it better.

It’s a good tow bar, too.

I’ve had one for 13 years and just sent it in for a rebuild. They replaced every moving part and all new bolts. Free. Lifetime warranty.