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Help with Weight Distribution Hitch

klarowe
Explorer
Explorer
I have a quick question about my Husky weight distribution hitch. I've been towing since before I could legally drive, but this is my first WDH. With the bar set on the 2nd link, I was getting about 1.25" difference in sag. I went up to the 3rd link and I'm almost dead on (<1/4" difference). However, I had to 'pre-lift' the hitch 7" in order to get the 3rd link on (from what I've read, 3"-4" of pre-lift is usually all it takes). My concern is whether or not I have too much tension on the bars now. My tow configuration is no what you'd typically see but everything is within weight specs.

Vehicle: 2013 VW Touareg TDI
Trailer: 2015 XLR 24HFS
WDH: Husky with anti-sway bar

Any help is appreciated. I want to make sure I'm not going to hear a loud SNAP on my way to Indianapolis in a couple weeks...
9 REPLIES 9

klarowe
Explorer
Explorer
Wow. Thank you. When I originally looked at how to hook it up, I mostly based my instructions on a youtube video from Eaz-lift (if I remember correctly). I believe that is where I got the incorrect / outdated information about the sag being equal front to back (can't remember where I got the 3/4" tolerance from... Eaz-lift says 1"). All of my other steps were done correctly, it was just that step that was wrong. With the new information, it fits a lot better with the instructions the dealer gave me for setting it up (raise the coupled hitch approx. 3"-4", attach bars at closes chain link, then lower hitch weight back down). Obviously this will change once I get it loaded with bikes and what not, so I am definitely grateful for the correct information... otherwise I would have been loading it wrong every time I towed; which I'm sure would end up in disaster at some point. Thank you for all your help guys!

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you have not done so already, take a good look at this thread for help on setting up your WD hitch. It also contains many links to other helpful and informative websites.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

klarowe
Explorer
Explorer
Apparently what I was reading was incorrect (but isn't everything on the internet automatically right... lol). It's also possible that I was reading outdated information. That does make perfect sense about not wanting any sag in the front end which would cause added weight on the steering axle and in turn cause oversteer. That would mean that the 2nd chain link would be the correct 'setting' with my trailer unloaded (obviously will vary with the bikes loaded) because the front suspension had only a 1/8" rise. Thanks for the accurate information!

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
klarowe wrote:
---From what I found, there should be no more than 3/4" difference in sag front to back which could only be accomplished by using the 3rd link (2nd link gave a difference of 1.25").---
What is the source of the '3/4" difference in sag' specification?
The updated specification from TV and WDH manufacturers is that the front end, when hitched with WD applied, should not be lower than when unhitched.
Some TV manufacturers now recommend that only about 50% of the front-end rise should be eliminated via application of WD.

The updated specifications are based only on restoring 50-100% of the load which was removed from the front axle.
There is no WDH-adjustment specification for rear-end height/load -- other than to state that the rear height should never be higher than when unhitched.

Restoring the front end to its unhitched load means that the front axle will carry no added load, the rear axle will carry a load equal to about 70-80% of tongue weight, and a load equal to about 20-30% of tongue weight will be transferred to the TT's axles.
There will be no "sag" at the front axle. A sag of 1.5-2" at the rear axle is not uncommon.

If you get the front end right, the rear end will take care of itself.
If your Touareg has air suspension, then there are other factors to consider.

I was able to get my answer though. The tension on the bars isn't nearly as much as I thought it was and I was worrying over nothing.---
How did you determine that the tension on the bars was okay?
Too much load transfer to the front axle can lead to undesirable oversteer.

Here's what some credible sources have to say about adjusting the WDH to restore too much load to the front axle.
I think the reason Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, Equal-i-zer, Reese and others have changed their weight distribution specifications is pretty well summed up in this Letter to Editor by Richard H Klein, P E printed in TRAILER BODY BUILDERS Magazine. The comment which specifically addresses front axle load is:

QUOTE

2. The statement โ€œtoo much tongue weight can force the truck down in the back, causing the front wheels to lift to the point where steering response and braking can be severely decreasedโ€ is not the real issue with heavy tongue weights. The real problem is that the tow vehicle's yaw stability, as measured by โ€œundersteer gradientโ€, is severely decreased. This increases the propensity of the tow vehicle to jackknife in turning maneuvers. Specifically, recent full scale testing conducted by the SAE Tow Vehicle Trailer Rating Committee (and now published in SAE J2807), determined that the use of weight distributing hitch torque should be minimized. In fact they recommend that the Front Axle Load Restoration (FALR) not exceed 100% (100% means that the front axle weight is brought back, via weight distribution, to a weight equal to its โ€œno trailerโ€ condition).


UNQUOTE

A related explanation from a representative of the company which manufactures the Equal-i-zer hitch was first posted here. It says:

QUOTE

In the past we had suggested that you should see a small drop on the front suspension. We are always trying to improve things here at Progress โ€“ our motto is โ€œSafe and Happy Customers,โ€ and so we are always reviewing our instructions and installation process. Recently, as part of this constant effort our engineers looked more deeply into this aspect of installation. We had always felt that a small drop was a sign that the trailerโ€™s weight was being transferred to the front axle, and that this was essentially a good thing.

As our engineers reviewed the instructions for the last round of renewal of our instructions, the found research results that contradicted our prior thinking. There has been a substantial amount of testing conducted by experts from SAE and the RV Industry Association to find out what will produce the best stability when towing. This towing suggests that you want your front axleโ€™s compression to be close to, but not lower than your free-standing height.

(Underline added for emphasis.)
UNQUOTE

Ford says the Front Axle Load Restoration should be approximately 50%.

Chevrolet/GMC says the FALR should be 100%, 50% or 0% depending on TV model and TT weight.

Reese now includes the following in some of their WDH installation instructions:

8. A new term in the industry is (โ€œFALRโ€ โ€“ Front Axle Load Return).
100% FALR Means the front fender is returned to the preload position.
That is our recommendation for best performance.



Equal-i-zer says the Front Axle Load Restoration should be between 50% and 100%.

Equal-i-zer's revised instructions specifically state:

Good adjustment:
You have most likely achieved good weight distribution adjustment if your measurements show the following with the trailer coupled and the weight distribution engaged:
1. From the coupled without weight distribution measurement, the front wheel well measurement is at least halfway back to the original uncoupled measurement. See line C on Front Wheel Well Measure Chart.
2. The rear wheel well measurement is somewhere between the uncoupled height, and the coupled with no weight distribution height. It should NEVER be higher than the uncoupled height. See line C on Rear Wheel Well Measure Chart. See Figure 19.



Ron

klarowe
Explorer
Explorer
I did research online for quite a while. My question was particular to just that step. According to the setup instructions, prelifting 3-4" was typically all that was required to get the proper sag front and back. From what I found, there should be no more than 3/4" difference in sag front to back which could only be accomplished by using the 3rd link (2nd link gave a difference of 1.25"). On the 3rd link, the car sat almost perfectly level as did the trailer. I just wasn't sure if there was too much tension on the bars.

I was able to get my answer though. The tension on the bars isn't nearly as much as I thought it was and I was worrying over nothing. I towed it about 2 hours over the weekend (1hr to and from a quick overnight camping trip) and she towed like a dream. I would like to get to the scales eventually to check everything, but everything is good for now.

TXiceman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Read the manufacturers instructions on how to set your hitch. Go to a level parking lot and start at step one....

Ken
Amateur Radio Operator.
2023 Cougar 22MLS, toted with a 2022, F150, 3.5L EcoBoost, Crewcab, Max Tow, FORMER Full Time RVer. Travel with a standard schnauzer and a Timneh African Gray parrot

jmtandem
Explorer II
Explorer II
All of the above comments. Plus go to the scales and do not add more back to the front axle with the hitch than was taken off by the tongue weight. Check with VW to see how much weight should be added back to the front axle. Some manufacturers do not recommend addng more than half the weight taken off by the tongue. VW should be able to help you with this.
'05 Dodge Cummins 4x4 dually 3500 white quadcab auto long bed.

jffkrn
Explorer
Explorer
There are links on the internet that will help you set it up correctly. you may have to disconnect everything and start from scratch, even if it is correct, use it as a guide / checklist to insure you got it right! Good Luck & Be Safe ! ! !

K_Charles
Explorer
Explorer
There's a lot more to adjusting the hitch then just picking a chain link. Read the setup instructions.