multi-purpose hitches

[Cajun_Bill]

While I do own a 5th wheel, this question concerns hitches that I use to pull my boats. I have a need for two different hitches, one that is much higher than the other because one of my boats requires a high hitch to allow any rain encountered on the trip to the launch to flow out of the drain hole and one that is about as high as the receiver itself for the other boat. For sometime, I have wanted to get a hitch that could be adjusted high and low rather than continuing to switch out the tow bar/ball each time.

I know that B&W makes such a hitch, but it appears these hitches would rust when left out in the weather, just as my other two hitches have done. I have seen on other trucks a hitch that appears to be made out of stainless steel or some other material that is gray in color (galvanized possibly?), but I haven't been able to find such a hitch online and have never been able to get close enough to these hitches to get the manufacturer's name. The one I'm thinking of has notches all along the back vertical and it appears that all one has to do is pull a pin, slide the hitch up (or down) and then reinsert the pin. From what I can tell, both the ball and hitch itself are made of materials that don't rust.

I know my description is kind of fuzzy, but hopefully I have given enough info for someone to recognize what I'm talking about. Any help would be appreciated.

[mkirsch]

Not destroy itself, but seize into the receiver due to corrosion.

The aluminum clamps that held my old soft tonneau frame to the truck had to be cut off because of the corrosion between the steel bolts and aluminum clamps. Those bolts were seized in there solid, and they were up out of the weather and salt.

Granted there's no salt in Louisiana unless you live near the coast, and the process will take quite a bit longer than here in the Northeast, but I learned long ago after having one shank seize in the receiver, which required torching to remove, and having a couple of close calls, to remove the shank as soon as you've unhitched the trailer. Even if it rattles around now, it won't prevent the problem.

[jerem0621]

mkirsch wrote:
Contrary to what you think, aluminum does in fact corrode. Worst is when it's in contact with iron and you introduce a little moisture to the party.

Humid Louisiana, a little vibration to burnish the paint off the receiver and the shank, and a few weeks of not towing is all it takes.

have you seen an aluminum draw bar destroy itself from being in a steel receiver tube? I've known people who have had these for years and I have never seen one fail myself. I don't think I have ever heard of one failing either.

Just curious because here in Tennesee we have an extremely humid environment as well and I haven't noticed a problem.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[Cajun_Bill]

unsubscribing

[mkirsch]

Contrary to what you think, aluminum does in fact corrode. Worst is when it's in contact with iron and you introduce a little moisture to the party.

Humid Louisiana, a little vibration to burnish the paint off the receiver and the shank, and a few weeks of not towing is all it takes.

[Cajun_Bill]

mkirsch wrote:
A stainless or aluminum shank is not going to eliminate the rust on your hands, because your receiver is made of plain carbon steel, and is rusting. The rust will transfer to the shank, and on to your hands. Wear gloves, or wash up afterward.

Leaving your hitch shank in 100% of the time, regardless of what it's made of, is not a good idea even if it's adjustable and will fit in your garage. Even if the shank is stainless, that receiver is still rusting, and if you leave the hitch in long enough it will become permanently welded into the receiver.

OP here. That's the whole point of this exercise and the "rust on my hands" comment. If I use the Rapid Hitch, all I have to do is adjust the height, but the hitch bar can stay in the receiver and since the part I have to adjust is aluminum, no rust.. I doubt that it would "permanently weld into the receiver", especially with the play between the shank/tow bar and the receiver allowing for movement anytime I am towing.

[ependydad]

I own a the Rapid Hitch as well and highly recommend it.

[Fordlover]

This reminds me of my grandfathers truck when growing up. The three holes on the bumper had a 1 7/8" ball, a 2", and the receiver hitch had the 2 5/16" for heavy towing.

I don't think any of the trucks have multiple holes in the bumper any more do they?

[Stalvo]

I have an Andersen Rapid Hitch. I have used it for 6 years in 3 different vehicles. The only time it is out if the receiver is when I use the WDH. I have never had an issue with out sticking in the receiver or anything. IF I ever need another hitch, it will moist definitely be an Andersen Rapid Hitch.

[APT]

I have a Putnam adjustable height ball mount and a convert-a-ball. I can tow pretty much any trailer I need to under my weight carrying limits.

I remove the ball mount when not towing. Greasy ball is a kid magnet.

[mkirsch]

A stainless or aluminum shank is not going to eliminate the rust on your hands, because your receiver is made of plain carbon steel, and is rusting. The rust will transfer to the shank, and on to your hands. Wear gloves, or wash up afterward.

Leaving your hitch shank in 100% of the time, regardless of what it's made of, is not a good idea even if it's adjustable and will fit in your garage. Even if the shank is stainless, that receiver is still rusting, and if you leave the hitch in long enough it will become permanently welded into the receiver.

[Cajun_Bill]

Golden_HVAC wrote:
It seems to me that removing the hitch shank is something that I do when I am not towing, so that I do not hit the hitch receiver with my knees when not towing.

Why not have two hitch receivers and have the ball already mounted on each? So simple to switch between the two. We do that at work all the time, as our van tows a 2 axle trailer with electric brakes most of the time and 2-5/16" ball, while the smaller single axle trailer has a 2" ball mount. Two heights too.

Fred.

Fred, that is what I do now, but each time I get rust on my hands because the hitch bars and the balls are not SS and coated with rust. In addition, one of the hitches sticks out too far so that I can't close my garage door so I have to remove it just to close the door.

Now, to those who recommend the Anderson, that is exactly the hitch I was talking about. Talk about "immediate answers"! In addition, I posted this just before going to church today and as luck would have it, one of the trucks in the parking lot had this same hitch. What a coincidence. Great forum and thanks to all who responded.

[carringb]

I also use the Anderson rapid hitch.

[mdamerell]

I drive through RV alley (Shipshewana, Middlebury, Howe) daily and the RV haulers will often be using the aluminum Anderson Rapid hitch for what that's worth.

[Golden_HVAC]

It seems to me that removing the hitch shank is something that I do when I am not towing, so that I do not hit the hitch receiver with my knees when not towing.

Why not have two hitch receivers and have the ball already mounted on each? So simple to switch between the two. We do that at work all the time, as our van tows a 2 axle trailer with electric brakes most of the time and 2-5/16" ball, while the smaller single axle trailer has a 2" ball mount. Two heights too.

Fred.