Reroute Lot Sewer Pipes

[YahkNBahk]

Hi All -

Hope this is the right place to post this. If not, please let me know and I'll move it.
We recently purchased a permanent RV lot (actually a double lot with some friends). The previous owner had his sewer pipe connection for our lot installed in a really goofy place. It sits in the middle of the lot so we need to run our hose across the lot to connect.
I want to reroute it so we can connect on the other side of our trailer and cap the existing connection. I think there is a main line that runs across the front of our property because both our neighbours have their hoses running up to there and I want to tap into that.
We spoke with the resort team about this briefly last fall and they said we can do whatever we want. I have some more questions for them but since this is a seasonal resort and hasnt really opened up yet its hard to get a hold of them and I want to get this done before the season really ramps up.

I would assume the resort would have a layout of the sewer system? Has anyone done this before and any suggestions on how to do it?
Is this something that I could do or would it better to hire a pro? Who would I talk to? There are approved general contractors for the place. Would they be able to do the work?

Thanks!

[Grit_dog]

Yeah 25’, ifn I could keep it shallow, get a couple guys with sharpshooters and a pick and just make er happen.

[YahkNBahk]

DancinCampers wrote:
Have you thought about using a macerater.

This. I was just looking at these the other day. This is a totally viable solution.

[YahkNBahk]

Grit dog wrote:

YahkNBahk wrote:

wapiticountry wrote:
I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.

I'm pretty sure this the route I'm going to go. I wouldn't need to go more than 25' or so. I'll keeping these instructions. Thanks!

That’s it? 25’? And not significantly up or downhill?
If you’d said that at the beginning this conversation would have been different.
Definitely a weekend job. Maybe only 1 case of beer if your help are better pipe hands than they are drinkers!

Yeah I know. I was so set on connecting to the main line that I didn't see the more obvious and easier solution. LOL if I get the lads before noon I should be ok.

[DancinCampers]

Have you thought about using a macerater.

[Grit_dog]

YahkNBahk wrote:

wapiticountry wrote:
I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.

I'm pretty sure this the route I'm going to go. I wouldn't need to go more than 25' or so. I'll keeping these instructions. Thanks!

That’s it? 25’? And not significantly up or downhill?
If you’d said that at the beginning this conversation would have been different.
Definitely a weekend job. Maybe only 1 case of beer if your help are better pipe hands than they are drinkers!

[Grit_dog]

Edit

[Grit_dog]

JRscooby wrote:

YahkNBahk wrote:

folivier wrote:
Not sure if Canada has this service but here in the states you can call 811 and ask the local utilities to locate their underground lines for you. Then if you hit one it's on them.
Here is Canada: https://call811.com/811-In-Your-State/Canada

Oh far out. This is good to know. Thanks!

In much of this country a professional can be fined for not calling for locating before starting a dig. And on a big deep cut they come out every 2-3 days.
A home-owner not far from me got in trouble when he decided to move mailbox, hit phone line with shovel.

Well, you are kinda sorta not right at all.
I know you have years of experience in “construction”. But will I only say I am very well versed in the process and liabilities associated with utility locates and utility strikes.


I can’t speak directly to BC regs, however in the US, you don’t get fined. However you do get to pay for the repair (“you” meaning the responsible party personal or commercially) if you fail to call in locates or if you dig before the stated response time. If you don’t call in locates and you don’t hit anything, there is no magic utility police handing out digging tickets and fines. It’s no harm no foul but the risk is on the responsible party.
They also don’t “come out every 2-3 days “ to refresh locates. They don’t ever “come out” unless a locate or a refresh is requested. And locates in are valid for varying durations generally dictated by state law. 7 days is the shortest I’ve seen, up to 45 days. However if the responsible party doesn’t maintain the locate marks a refresh will need to be called in.

And nobody “gets in trouble” ever for hitting a utility unless responsibility isn’t accepted IE the at fault damage repair isn’t paid for or there some sort of civil liability, injury, loss of use, property damage, something that would beget charges being filed.

The takeaway is know what the local regs are and follow them. Because they differ from locale to locale.

[YahkNBahk]

You all have been awesome. I really appreciate all the suggestions. I think I'll put the idea of tapping into the main line to rest and go with using the existing connection. If I can't get a hold of the contractor I'll get my friend who shares the lot and my brother in law who along with my sister have a place here to help. They both are super handy (provided I can get to them before they get into the Bumbu. LOL).
I'll see if I have pics so you'll get a better idea.

Thanks again!!

[YahkNBahk]

Grit dog wrote:
^Yup very “basic” for those who know what to do and not horrible for those who are some what handy, mechanically inclined, somewhat informed and wholly motivated.
Totally a diy job for someone who fits the above category.
Not so much if you’re like any of the folks I know who possess zero knowledge skill or desire in any of the things that would lend one the ability to do a diy project like this.

What you said IS easy. IF the right conditions are present. Topography was never mentioned. That is one of the first go/no go considerations.
You, me and many others could walk the OP through a diy of this pretty easy I bet. If he provided any tangible information.

LOL I got the desire. The skill/confidence to do this is something else.
I'll see if I can find some pictures of the lot and what I'm trying to do.

[YahkNBahk]

JRscooby wrote:

wapiticountry wrote:
The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line.

That sounds like a pretty steep drop to me. Inch in 10 feet is what I remember, but it's been a long time sense I put in septic tank.
As to the "runs down hill". In fact, if the grade is not right the water will run off and leave the solids. When putting in sewer lines, you want stuff to flow. If needed to stay below grade use flow, vertical drop, flow, stairstep looking trench.
And the bottom of the trench needs to be stable enough you don't get any settlement that can cause low spots.

Thanks. Wouldnt have thought about the bottom of the trench part.

[YahkNBahk]

wapiticountry wrote:
I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.

I'm pretty sure this the route I'm going to go. I wouldn't need to go more than 25' or so. I'll keeping these instructions. Thanks!

[YahkNBahk]

ssthrd wrote:

ssthrd wrote:
BC 1 Call for more info.

If you get a contractor it is one of their responsibilities to do the locates. You also need to make sure that they declare themselves "Prime Contractor" so that they bear the brunt if there is a accident/injury, and WCB gets involved. Otherwise, you as the owner are on the hook. Just saying..........

It looks like a very simple job which a small excavator/backhoe can handle. Probably not a big deal cause it's on private property anyway, and you are not a contractor.

But you should still do the locates --storm, sanitary, water, hydro, tel, cable, gas, street lights, etc.

These are really good points. I'm trying to get a hold of the contractor the resort uses but apparently they don't like to return phone calls or emails.

[YahkNBahk]

Grit dog wrote:
And if you’re out in the toolies, finding that half lucid plumber could be your next challenge after figuring out the feasibility of whatcha want to do! Seriously.

The nearest (small) city is about 45 minutes away so I'd be paying at least 2 hours travel time on top of the work. There are local guys that the resort uses and swear by and know the lay out of the place but they are crazy hard to get a hold of.

[YahkNBahk]

Grit dog wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
Note sure why sewer line needs to be below frost line.
If liquid is standing in line long enough to freeze likely to build up to a clog no matter what weather.

Yahk bahk, this is an example of misleading information.
However if NOT building to code and only a seasonal site, freezing concerns are much lower. Possibly not a real world concern at all. Maybe not even a regulatory concern however that is highly doubtful as even places that have virtually no residential building inspections and loose easy to acquire permitting still generally regulate sanitary sewer closely compared to other utilities due to the sensitive nature of installation and effluent.
However no one including the above response knows enough about your situation to surmise that trench depth would not be a concern for regulatory or practical reasons.

Fwiw if you have specific questions and need specific feedback I can try to help. Just pm me.
I’ve installed underground sewer from 3” to 108” diameter. What you’re doing is quite likely something I’d rent a little trencher or mini-exc and do in a weekend during the off season when none of the nosy neighbors are present! Lol.

Thanks! I might take you up on that. LOL yeah I'm wanting to get this completed before the May Long Weekend when everyone starts coming out.