Sway Control and WD Hitches

[sennister]

We went to the RV Show here locally this weekend and just started the buying process for a new camper and wanted to double check a couple things.

Truck Specs from GMC:
2011 Yukon Denali (short one not XL) AWD
TWR: Trailer Weight Ball: 8100lbs
GCWR: 14,000
Curb Weight: 6,000lbs so that gives us 8,000lbs for the camper, the family and all of our stuff.
Ball Weight: Class IV 10-15% trailer; 1200lbs max
The truck does have the optional factory brake controller
Like all Denali's it has the rear air shocks with load leveling.

Trailer Specs from Jayco: (I didn't take a photo of the dataplate so this is an estimate from the website so ballpark numbers not taking into account options)
2017 Jayco Jay Feather 25BH
UVW: 5265lbs
Dry Hitch: 640lbs
GVWR: 6750lbs

So from a towing capacity we should be staying away from the max capacities well enough to be good. We live and will be camping mainly in MN and WI mostly within 150 miles so only mild hills no mountains or high altitude stuff planned. We don't get crazy winds here normally.

With my current camper (22' Dutchman) we have been using a Draw-Tight WD hitch rated for 12,000lbs with the 1200 spring bars that support up to 1200lbs Tongue Weight. This is the chain style and we have never used a sway control bar with it as I don't have one. This hitch was probably too big for what we were using.

In talking with sales, I said I wasn't sure what the rating was on the hitch and inquired about this. She stated that for the trailer we are getting they normally recommend at least a 10K hitch or 12K might be a bit better. They use the Equal-i-zer and I guess from the stand point of it will give me sway control without another connection that I have to take off when parking it might be nice. They are asking $795 for it though and I have found it for less ($510 on Amazon) or they said they will move what I have now over for free. I might ask them if they will price match.

I assume that this would also mean that if I bought the one from Amazon they would install that one for free when we go to get the camper. Though it isn't like it is hard to bolt up and mainly looking at a bit of time setting it up. I have a level section of driveway. So should I just have them move what I have now and then get consider getting either the sway control later if I need it or upgrading the bars to the other design that provides sway control?

I guess I don't know how much I will need it on the camper though this one is bigger both in length and weight. I do know that if I don't get it and have it set up that means I might be mid trip and get into cross winds or some other condition where I wish I had it. This is why I am leaning toward just going with the Equal-i-zer or something similar.

Do my numbers look good and thoughts on what to do with the WD hitch/sway control?

[sennister]

Yabbut wrote:
The most important choice with the Blue Ox is the bar choice, and it sounds like you have the correct bars.

We have the 1500 lb bars for our 10,000 lb GVW trailer. It's handled some pretty vicious winds from all directions, as well as mountain curves and roads covered with slush and icy snow. It just works, quietly. I think you'll be happy with the Blue Ox.

Yeah, I went with the bars that they (Blue OX) recommended when I sent them the specs of the trailer and our tow vehicle.

The hitch came on Wednesday and I already have it pretty much set up. I can't finalize it until we test fit it but I measured the coupler height with the trailer level when we were out there last week. Then I set up the hitch so the ball side is about 1" higher than that coupler measurement.

[Yabbut]

The most important choice with the Blue Ox is the bar choice, and it sounds like you have the correct bars.

We have the 1500 lb bars for our 10,000 lb GVW trailer. It's handled some pretty vicious winds from all directions, as well as mountain curves and roads covered with slush and icy snow. It just works, quietly. I think you'll be happy with the Blue Ox.

[sennister]

Got an email from them today and the order has been forwarded to Blue Ox for direct shipment.

I forgot to mention an issue we had at trade in with the old camper. Normally I use one of those traffic cone looking jack stands under the front jack. Since we were leaving the camper I didn't want to donate it to them. The only had a short block of wood handy so when I was cranking it up trying to get it off the ball I hit the top limit of the jack. Well being I was lifting the trailer I was cranking pretty hard when I hit the stop and I broke the jack. It wasn't high enough to get the truck off so we pulled the pin on the hitch and my wife pulled the truck forward as I caught the hitch. I opened the top of the jack and there was a pin that snapped off so no stripped gears. An easy fix but the dealer can mess with that.

[sennister]

On Saturday we took our old camper in for trade as well as completed all the paperwork on the new camper so it is a done deal. They need to get it on their schedule to go through the camper for their internal pre-sale inspection. Then we will go through it for the delivery inspection/walk through. We need to check our schedules but I am thinking a pickup around early April.

While there we went through the camper really quick as I wanted to get a couple measurements and take a photo of the data plate. I measured from the coupler back to see where 29" fell on the A frame to make sure the clamp on style Blue Ox hitch would work and it will be fine. I also ensured the trailer was level and grabbed a measurement of the coupler height. With this I will be able to set up truck side of the hitch before getting there. So when we go to pick it up I just have to slap on the clamp on rotating latch at 29", make sure the truck is straight when hitching up. Then verify the chains are at 90 to the A Frame and tighten down the bolts on the clamp.

I ordered the Blue Ox from etrailer.com last night and paid the $25 for the expedited shipping. I was shocked that I got an email from their Customer Service about 5 minutes after my order (8PM) that they didn't have it in the distribution center but they were trying to track one down for me. Shocked in that they would respond in 5 minutes on a Sunday night. I really don't need it expedited since we are not picking up the trailer until April and I did pull my old hitch off so I could use that. However it looks like it weighs about 100 lbs and I would like to get the hitch and basically set it up this week. On Friday I am going in for surgery and will be on restrictions where I can't lift over 10 lbs for well over a couple months. Which will make setting up a hitch a bit difficult. Not the end of the world if it isn't here but it would be nice.

Oh from the data plate our camper with the options weighs in at 5604 lbs and has 1146 lbs available for cargo/tanks. So combined we are looking at 6750 lbs so tongue weight should fall in the 675-1012 lbs range if we are running heavy which I don't plan on for weekend trips of 2-3 days.

[sennister]

Thanks again Barney. This has been helpful.

I was talking with the dealer yesterday again as I mentioned and I am not going to mess with getting the hitch from them. I contacted Blue Ox yesterday via their website and they are very helpful. I explained the camper specs that we have and the confirmed that the BXW1003 which is for the Underslung Coupler is the kit that I want to go with. They also asked about what our truck is and confirmed that the 7 hole adjustable shank included is the one that we need as well as confirmed the ball that I will get.

If I get everything before we go pick it up, I can likely set it up in the dealer's lot. We are going on Saturday to finalize the paperwork and if it is on level ground I will grab a measurement of the coupler height. If I can do that I should be able to get the hitch 90% set up at home without the camper. With that measurement I add 1-2" and that is my unloaded ball height on the truck.

When I go to pick up the camper I measure back 29" and slap on the clamp on brackets for the rotating lift mounts and double check my chains are straight and torque it down with my torque wrench. Since it is a chain system figure out how many links I need to drop to get it level and I am off.

Even if they do price match they are not doing much for what they are charging. Through Etrailer.com I can get it all with free shipping for $615 including the new ball. Where they are asking $850. There are times in life where I factor in my time or having to run out and buy a bunch of expensive stuff that I will only use once. This isn't that time consuming and I have the tools to do it. Since this hitch doesn't have all the adjustments and shims, setting it up is pretty easy. The only potential issue is if the propane tanks are in the way at 29" but when I am there I will measure that as well then order everything.

[BarneyS]

Given all the new information you have posted about your dealer and location, I would just use your present hitch, without the sway bar, and tow it home. Then you can take all the time you want to research different hitches and when you make up your mind, install it yourself and know it is done right.

I don't think you will have a problem towing it without the sway bar as long as you keep the speeds down. If it starts to sway, just slow down. I wouldn't make a habit of doing that though. :W
Barney

[sennister]

The dealer just called. It was the finance guy going over the numbers so I didn't expect him to answer the questions with the hitch very well but he said $800 for the Equil-i-zer and $850 for the Blue Ox. I wasn't going to go over price match stuff now. I will ask when I go in to go over the paperwork. Waiting to hear back from my wife now on when she wants to go in to do that.

The odd thing is that I asked why it was so much more than the price listed on the website. That I expected some increase for the ball which isn't included and supplies. He said that this was right the supplies, ball as well as installation getting everything set up and tax. The odd thing is they said they would do that for free with the old hitch. I would imagine being we are going from a standard coupler on the old trailer to the underslung, nothing will be set up right. So it isn't like we would be able to simply hook up and go unless we wanted to pull it home without the WD bars. Even though it is completely dry at that point, it isn't something I want to do as we would be pushing the limits of Class III at 5265lbs. That is unless I used my Father in Law's 3500 GMC.

[sennister]

gmckenzie wrote:

I have an Equal-i-zer that I found used for a real good price. The only downside to it is that it lacks adjust-ability. So you set it up for how loaded you are and are kinda stuck with that setting. My understanding of the BO is you can tweak it better for changes in weight load. In my case, my water tank is near the front of the trailer. I usually tow with little water, but there are a couple dry sites I go to that I need the tank full for, and I can't really adjust the Equal-i-zer for the change.

But either are a good choice.

Hmm, I hadn't thought of that. Most of the time as I mentioned we will also be dry camping which means heavier loads as you pointed out. I am not sure where the tanks are on this new camper as it has an enclosed bottom but it would be nice to adjust the settings as needed if we are running heavy on a short trip for dry camping vs running light when going to a place with full hookups.

[gmckenzie]

Walaby wrote:
x2 on Blue Ox Sway Pro, but honestly I don't think you can go wrong with either BO or Equalizer... or any of the top brands for that matter.

Not sure where you got the idea that you have to disconnect the sway control on Blue Ox before backing up.... There is no issue backing up when you are fully hooked up.

Mike

I have an Equal-i-zer that I found used for a real good price. The only downside to it is that it lacks adjust-ability. So you set it up for how loaded you are and are kinda stuck with that setting. My understanding of the BO is you can tweak it better for changes in weight load. In my case, my water tank is near the front of the trailer. I usually tow with little water, but there are a couple dry sites I go to that I need the tank full for, and I can't really adjust the Equal-i-zer for the change.

But either are a good choice.

[sennister]

Walaby wrote:

Not sure where you got the idea that you have to disconnect the sway control on Blue Ox before backing up.... There is no issue backing up when you are fully hooked up.

Mike

Sorry on the confusion. What I was talking about disconnecting is the friction sway control. If I stuck with my Draw-Tight that I have been using on my current camper, I would want to add the friction sway control. It is better to remove this when backing into the camp site or other tight turning situations.

I agree no need to do this for the Blue Ox or Equal-i-zer. That is why I am leaning toward one of these two. I hadn't read about the Blue Ox before this thread and I like the design of it a little better than the Equal-i-zer as it looks easier to hook up.

[sennister]

Thanks Barney

Yeah, I was aware of the holes needed for the friction sway bar with my current WD hitch. I just was concerned if they went to move it and they come back saying because the different coupler design that the chains are not long enough so they have to install them some other way or I have to buy some different latches for the chain side. If I do go with my current hitch to get it home, I don't really want to spend money on getting it working knowing I am really leaning to ultimately replace it.

I was looking a bit more at Blue Ox and discovered that my dealer is also a Blue Ox Dealer. So while they may normally use the Equal-i-zer, it looks like they also have the Blue Ox. I think at this point I will talk to them about my options. The odd thing is I found on their web site that they most expensive Equal-i-zer they list is the 14K for $714 which is way to big. The 10K is $618 and 12K $635. That is with the shank and as you mentioned no ball but a ball but that is a long way from $800. So I am not sure where they came up with that figure. Maybe with the ball and tax it would put it close so they just say that as an estimate. If they prepare people for an $800 bill and then say that it is actually only $700 they go away happy vs if the price went the other way. As for the Blue Ox they have it listed for $695. So just a little more than the Equal-i-zer. I think I will shop around and see if they will price match. Etrailer shows it for $615 with free shipping and no tax. It is one thing if I was just buying a hitch but we are buying the entire camper.

I think it is about 15 miles to the dealer. Honestly, I don't know where it is other than the city that it is in. Since we saw it and did the paperwork at the RV Show in Minneapolis, I haven't been there yet. Either way we are not talking a long haul to get it home. If I needed I can take back roads that run parallel to the interstate most of the way if I needed to keep the speeds down. They also said I can keep it there for free as long as I want. So I could pick it up on a nice calm day. They don't care if I don't pick it up until May or whatever. I will get it before then but with the snow we have on the ground and may still get more, I will probably wait a bit and would guess April at the very latest. It is too hard to get the camper in the back yard for storage right now anyhow.

For future trips, where we normally camp (dry camping) is about 30 miles away with 15 of it on the interstate. Because it is dry camping we will be loaded heavier with full fresh tank on the way there and on the way back we have about 5 miles to get to where we can dump the tanks. I would say 90% of our camping will be at that site because it is free and where a bunch of relatives camp.

[Walaby]

x2 on Blue Ox Sway Pro, but honestly I don't think you can go wrong with either BO or Equalizer... or any of the top brands for that matter.

Not sure where you got the idea that you have to disconnect the sway control on Blue Ox before backing up.... There is no issue backing up when you are fully hooked up.

Mike

[BarneyS]

There will be no holes in the frame to install the old hitch. The holes come in if you decide to let them install the friction sway control bar. If you are comfortable towing without the sway control bar then you might try it that way.

Your old hitch should fit just fine on the underslung coupler that Jayco uses. Might have to turn you shank over and remount the hitch head to accommodate it but it should be no problem.

If you are towing the new trailer for a long distance then I think I would purchase the Equal-i-zer hitch and bring it with you and let them install it - even if it costs a few pennies to do so. Then, when you get it home you can re-do the installation yourself to correct any deficiencies if any.

I don't think I would tow it without sway control unless you only have a short distance to go and at fairly slow speeds. If you have a bunch of freeway driving to do then I would use some kind of sway control. Using the friction control will mean drilling 6 holes into the A frame for the small ball. Using the Equal-i-zer or Blue Ox will not require any holes to be drilled.

If it were me, I would go with the new hitch. That price at RVW with free shipping is very attractive! Just be aware that it does not include the ball. I would purchase the ball from them and have them install it before shipping. DO NOT use the old ball from your old hitch if you get the Equal-i-zer. The shank length of the ball is too long for the hitch head and will hit the WD bars when turning. There is a special hitch ball for use with that hitch.
Barney

[bikendan]

You can get the Equal-i-zer from RVW and free shipping, for around $450.