120v LED vs CFL vs 12v Lamps Results

[BFL13]

Following up on another thread discussing using inverter and 120v lights with LEDs or CFLs. I have been using a CFL for a reading lamp for some years, but now have an LED bulb to make a comparison.

3000w Inverter on no light but various parasitic 12v things--1.7 amp draw seen on Trimetric monitor.

One double 12v lamp- 4.4 amps-- adds 2.7 amps
12v lamp no inverter--0.7a light off, 3.4a on--adds 2.7a
One 13w Sylvania CFL - 2.7 amps--adds 1 amp
One 5w IKEA LED- 2.2 amps-- adds 0.5 amp
(no comparable 12v LED to test here, sorry)

The three each have about the same light--no actual measurement of that.

So using the 120v LED with inverter is 2.2 amps as seen on Trimetric, while no inverter on, plus double 12v light is 3.4 amps for about the same lighting.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Gonna spring for the wacky 299 dollar special. Can't stand it - gotta see inside. Hard black anodizing TI bi-polar, FET, Panasonic, Essex relay, Hubbell, stronger fans upgrades. Between it and a Magnum or Outback lots of retail price playtime. Wotta hoot.

[DiskDoctr]

Pyramids...LOL :B

I ordered the Xantrex PROsine 1800. It is a used unit and will be here next week sometime.

I'll post up some pics when it arrives.

Xantrex PROsine is expensive, but seems to be a good unit. Really appreciate the recommendation (and all the others, too).

Hopefully we can get it installed and wired up to be simple and straight forward.

I can see us using the microwave about 5 mins in the am, during early quiet hours, then running the generator to recharge the batteries as the morning progresses.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

And burn ointment needed after putting out the fire and having the pyramid land on a bare foot.

[DiskDoctr]

BFL13 wrote:
With only two batteries you are at risk of having to make toast with the bread-burning rack that goes on the propane stove that sets off your ceiling fire alarm every time, making the dogs bark like crazy, waking up the entire campground.

Sounds like the voice of experience talking? LOL 😉

[DiskDoctr]

MrWizard wrote:
that should work, the specs look good, weight 19.5 pounds

wight means a good transformer inside

Thanks. I saw two different weights quoted, so I edited my post to show the lower weight, just in case 😉

[MrWizard]

that should work, the specs look good, weight 19.5 pounds

wight means a good transformer inside

[DiskDoctr]

Thanks for the quick replies, guys. I was out pulling the fridge to replace the cooling unit.

The one I'm looking at is Xantrex PROsine 1800/12 1800 watt, 15 amp rms continuous. True Sine Wave.

180am 12v DC input.

Direct wire, no onboard outlets.

Looks like the surge is 2900 watts. Listed at 16.5 lbs

Here's a link: Amazon

[MrWizard]

DiskDoctr wrote:
Please check me before I commit to it...

My microwave is 1500watt, 13amp, according to its sticker.

If I get an 1800watt continuous inverter, it is listed at 15amps, will it work for my microwave?

I know MOTORS require more power to start, but know very little about microwave ovens.

I only want to buy ONE inverter. I'd rather throw $200 at an extra set of batteries later if we want to run the microwave as a habit than need to replace the inverter.

If the 1800watt will do it, I'll get it tomorrow.

Thanks!

is that 1800w continuous ? what is the peak surge, what does it weigh ?
do you have link, a model number

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Ain't gonna feed that magnetron with enough inrush unless that inverter can peak at say 2500 watts for a few seconds. Dial back the power potential to please the inverter.

[BFL13]

Which inverter is it exactly? Is it PSW or MSW?

With high amp draws like 150a, you can do it with two batteries only if they are more than 75% full (roughly) before they have such voltage sag that the inverter alarms off. This has nothing do with the inverter choice. To be able to run the high amp item with the batteries down a bit more than 75% you need more battery.

If you are doing "50-80s" off grid, that means you will seldom be able to run the MW with two batts. If you are not off-grid, you don't care what the inverter can do or not.

If you are on solar off grid with the two batts and getting sunshine every day, then you will not be doing 50-80s but more like 75-95s. Now you will have more chances to run the MW with just two batts.

The whole purpose of the entire set-up is so you can make proper toast in a real 120v toaster in the early morning in quiet hours when your batts are at their lowest before solar can bring them back up later or when you can use the generator.

With only two batteries you are at risk of having to make toast with the bread-burning rack that goes on the propane stove that sets off your ceiling fire alarm every time, making the dogs bark like crazy, waking up the entire campground.

[DiskDoctr]

Please check me before I commit to it...

My microwave is 1500watt, 13amp, according to its sticker.

If I get an 1800watt continuous inverter, it is listed at 15amps, will it work for my microwave?

I know MOTORS require more power to start, but know very little about microwave ovens.

I only want to buy ONE inverter. I'd rather throw $200 at an extra set of batteries later if we want to run the microwave as a habit than need to replace the inverter.

If the 1800watt will do it, I'll get it tomorrow.

Thanks!

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Same same for any eBay purchase. 50 Hz 220 vac mmmm stinkum. Useless like 120 vac 400 Hz.

[westend]

Be sure to check the voltage output on these cheap Asian inverters. The ones that were linked to in the thread appear to have 220V/240V output. That won't be a good situation if unobserved and trying to use with a 120V appliance.

[DiskDoctr]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
My Samlex is a great 300 watt PSW and it's idle draw is next to nothing. It is a heavy transformer inverter.

The 3000 watt inverter mentioned well above is intriguing. The vendor is claiming Siemens transistors and a Japanese toroid. Not even the old Trace inverters had toroids.

Tear that inverter down! Strip the heat sink! Send it off to be hard black anodized! 137% more heat radiation. A 60-amp 1250 volt full wave bridge rectifier. Chuck the receptacles. Replace with Hubbell 20-amp Nylon units. Remount FETs with silver bearing thermal grease. Mount exterior 50-amp DPDT contactor. Two EB Pabst 120 vac 180 CFM fans mounted exterior. One in and one out flow. Keep that toroid cool. But I do not know the menu format. All the above is a bunch of hot air without knowing if the Vabs max can be time adjusted and Vabs limit set. Same for float. Does is have a feeler-tickler circuit to detect loads for auto turn on? What is the transition time in milliseconds for line to UPS flop-over?

Time to write vendor and decipher Chinglish answer.

And LOSE that Barnum & Bailey paintjob

If you get that all worked out...be sure to let me know the new name of the inverter so I can buy one! 😉