MrWizard wrote:
OK. New scenario. Say I just wanted to install a 30 amp plug in a box onto the side of my generator. As long as I use big enough wires, can I just use the following diagram and hook up a new outlet? this way the genny stays the same and I get a new outlet. I know that I will need to run the genny in 240 mode, but I'll only be using 120.
NO don't do it that way, don't run in 220 mode, that will split the windings and give you have POWER/amps on the outlet because you will only be using ONE winding
jumper the wires from the duplex connections to the new RV outlet and leave it in the 120 mode, you will get the full 25 amps.
you can remove the 220 outlet, capp the wires( do not use them ) replace with the RV outlet, and jumper the wires from the duplex to the new outlet
I have a metal bolt on box and receptacle. now when you say jump from the duplex, do you mean( according to the photo) the red wire to one plug. The blue to the other. Then ground to ground. Does this mean that one of the hot wires act as a neutral?
OK. New scenario. Say I just wanted to install a 30 amp plug in a box onto the side of my generator. As long as I use big enough wires, can I just use the following diagram and hook up a new outlet? this way the genny stays the same and I get a new outlet. I know that I will need to run the genny in 240 mode, but I'll only be using 120.
NO don't do it that way, don't run in 220 mode, that will split the windings and give you have POWER/amps on the outlet because you will only be using ONE winding
jumper the wires from the duplex connections to the new RV outlet and leave it in the 120 mode, you will get the full 25 amps.
you can remove the 220 outlet, capp the wires( do not use them ) replace with the RV outlet, and jumper the wires from the duplex to the new outlet
StaJs wrote:BORoarke wrote:
Anyone have a picture of where you put the RTV silicone on the white fan to reduce some of the noise from that end? Or can explain the process?
Bryan
HERE
Scroll down toward the bottom of the page. The original post seems to have disappeared, but you don't need to remove the starter first, remove the starter and housing as a unit.
Did mine today. Here are a few pics.
Approximate location of the starter and housing unit bolts are here. (Pic wasn't taken at the right angle to actually show you all of the bolts, but they're pretty obvious.)
Next comes the flywheel nut. This is 19mm, or a 3/4" socket fits, also. I used an air wrench to bump it off. Putting it back on, I stuck a big screwdriver through the holes on that silver thing so I could apply some torque.
Here's a pic of the exposed flywheel. I drew in the places where I put the sealant.
I used threadlocker on the nuts and bolts when I put it back together. I'll know tomorrow after it cures whether it helped with the sound or not.
jpkiljan wrote:yerlizard wrote:
here is a picture of the wiring on the newer Power Pro 3500
The tab between the outlets is in place and on the red and blue wires going to it. What does this tell you?
does this help any?
Edited to reduce picture width - Mel
It just looks like it is wired they way the wiring diagram says it is supposed to be wired. Well, it is if you assume that you are looking at the rear of the sockets in the wiring diagram. I also assume the little T-shaped slots in the 120V receptacle are on the bottom of the socket when the panel is reassembled--like it is on mine.
--John
OK. New scenario. Say I just wanted to install a 30 amp plug in a box onto the side of my generator. As long as I use big enough wires, can I just use the following diagram and hook up a new outlet? this way the genny stays the same and I get a new outlet. I know that I will need to run the genny in 240 mode, but I'll only be using 120.
whatsnext wrote:bobandcat wrote:whatsnext wrote:
This is a mod for someone that has a little extra time on their hands. It will make your wife happy and you will not have to get out of bed to start your generator. She can even start the generator.
the 13 sec video
The starter is cheap Briggs and the remote is a 4 function Chinese made.
The remote is good for about 100'
Please post more details. What briggs starter parts are needed? What did they cost? Name and cost of the remote starter module? Do you have pics of the installation to share? Etc, etc, etc.
Bob,
I will try this weekend to do a short write up with links and pics
Note, I will be gone for a while and will not be able to post anything more for about 2 wks.
This is the way it works, I think maybe you can adapt it to the Chinese generators. It would take some effort, but I am amazed at the mods that have already been posted.
I will give the basic method that I used. I think that this will work on any of the small Kipor or even the ever popular Champion. The remote control and receiver of course would work well on the 3kw and up that have a battery and starter system. Hays equipment sells a remote control system, but it is really pricey.
Let me preface this by stating that this self-start mod work very well. The starter takes it power from the RV battery. I suppose that a dry type battery could provide the starting power if desired. That battery could also recharged from the Honda 12 volt source. The starter motor is coupled to a 1" diameter spool (used a ยฝ pvc plastic pipe coupling) and when activated, the motor simply winds the rope around the spool. Just before the rope reaches the end of its mechanical travel, a normally open switch closes and opens the start circuit, cutting the power to the starter. The Honda rewind spring then rewinds the rope and the cycle is complete.
The starter is mounted on a 16 gauge aircraft (hardened) aluminum plate that I hand bent to fit the profile of the Honda. It is not fancy and steel could be substituted. The plate is held onto the generator by 4 strips of 3M high strength Velcro. I chose Velcro for several reasons. First, it's easy to remove, it also serves as a spacer to stand out the plate from the generator so screw heads and other hardware can be placed on the inside and mar the generator case. I used 2 #10 machine screws to secure the starter plate to the aluminum mount plate. I did use 2 #6 self tapping screws just to make sure that it did not fall off while traveling.
List of parts and materials
โข Starter can be almost any small engine, The best and easiest to use would be an old Brigg that uses wound fields instead of permanent magnets. This is important and I will explain this later with more detail. Briggs are the most common and can be purchased on Ebay cheaply from $15 used to $50 for new ones.
โข A horn relay for the heavy current to the motor. A NTE R51-1070-12F SPST 70A about $8 or other equivalent, make sure the coil does draw more than 1/4 amp.
โข A momentary 4 function remote and receiver from china. Cost under $20. The momentary remote receiver will need a couple of circuit mods for it to work properly.
โข I used about 6' of stranded cat 5 for the wiring between the remote receiver and the generator.
โข A few dollars of misc hardware.
The next are optional for choke and unchoke operation.
โข A model airplane servo for the choke control if you want to have a choke control. About $15 for a cheap one.
โข A servo control circuit. I suggest using one of the many 555 timer chip circuits and setting a fixed resistance for choke and unchoke.
