3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

[professor95]

professor95 wrote:
EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here.

In the eight year run of this thread we have amassed almost 10,000 postings and surpassed a million views. This creates somewhat of a dilemma for anyone who has just discovered the forum.

Since the amount of information is virtually overwhelming, I suggest you set your preferences for this thread to read "newest first" and then begin to page backwards.

What you will find in these pages is a wealth of info on virtually any make or model of Chinese manufactured synchronous (non-inverter) generator in the 3,000 watt performance class. Info will include how to rewire series coils to parallel to obtain maximum wattage from a single 120 volt outlet. Tips on further reducing sound levels, how to care for these generators, which ones are "RV ready" and provide the best overall performance for the dollar invested. Which companies NOT to deal with, where the best prices are, how to safely wire the generator into a home or RV, how to check your RV for electrical faults, sources for generator accessories, which 20/30 adapters are safe to use and which are not. How to convert a gasoline generator to propane or NG. This is only the beginning. The forum has a life of its own with the focus sub-topic switching frequently. Still, the main topic of utilizing the amazing, inexpensive Chinese gensets is always there. The amount of creativity and innovation presented in these pages is indicative of the talents shared in the diverse backgrounds of the folks who make up our combined RV community.

Many of the original brands and models of Chinese gensets mentioned in the introduction and early pages of the thread have since disappeared. New EPA and CARB emissions requirements, company bonds assuring the emissions warranty will be honored even if the company goes out of business, and fierce competition in the industry have changed the playing field. Champion Power Equipment has become the apparent "trophy team" providing an ever expanding retail outlet, an ample parts supply, a strong warranty and excellent customer service. CPE has continued to improve their product and now offers a new model (#46538) with exclusive convenience, safety and performance features aimed at the RV market. Big names like Cummins/Onan, Honda and Generac all now have Chinese built open frame synchronous gensets available. Ironically, the prices often found on these gensets has not significantly changed during the past eight years - even with the devaluation of the American Dollar and new EPA/CARB requirements.

I also encourage you to use the search function and even the advanced search options to find information. Key works such as "rewiring", "PowerPro", "Champion", "Onan Homesite", "Duropower", "ETQ", "Jiung Dong or JD", "Tractor Supply", "Costco", "Lowe's" and "Home Depot" are all examples of keywords that will give you specific information on different models being sold by retailers today.

Or, you can fill your glass with your favorite beverage (keep more close by - maybe some munchies as well :D, sit back at your computer, tell your wife (or significant other) that you will see her in the morning and spend the next 10 or so hours reading through the postings.

No one on the forum gets mad if you ask a question that is a repeat. Please do not hesitate to post to the forum. All questions are considered important and those active on the forum will do their best to respond with a valid answer.

Also note we are not out to knock the Honda, Yamaha, Kipor or other brands of high end digital gensets. We recognize the quality of these products and their suitability for quite, efficient RV use. But, there is a flood of reliable, inexpensive and comparatively lower cost gensets coming out of China that are excellent alternative choices for the RVer wanting power to run an air conditioner, microwave, etc. without excessive noise or breaking the budget.

Oh, one last thing. The folks on this forum are true gentlemen. We do not flame one another or the product discussed - period. Ugly contributors usually have their comments and remarks ignored by our masses. It is not a forum to start arguments to obtain a clear win. We do disagree on many issues, but we have all agreed to do that in a respectable manner.

We now have the introduction of more and more inverter gensets. There is a rather extensive thread named "The Official Unofficial Champion 2000i Generator" on this forum. Today, I added info on the new Champion 3100i inverter genset. Discussion on this product may get moved to its own thread at a later date.

Many have looked upon this thread with distain saying Chinese is cheap and doomed to failure. I remember saying exactly the same thing about Japanese products a few decades back. But, over the past eight years the track record for Chinese built generators has shown otherwise.

Please, join us in a fascinating journey down the Chinese built genset road of knowledge.

This is the question I posted that got it all started back in March 2005.......

Randy

For a little over a month now, I have been somewhat intrigued by the availability of a 3000 watt, 6.5 HP generator at Pep Boys and Northern Tool for under $300.00. The engine on this generator looks identical to a Honda 6.5 HP OHV engine. Knowing that the Chinese have become very adept at “cloning” reputable technologies from other manufacturers, I was not surprised at the similarities. Neither store could give me any information on the generator nor did they have a “running” display model.

I have done a little research. This is what I have discovered:

Many of these generators are imported by ELIM International (www.eliminternational.com) out of Buffalo, New York from Jiung Manufacturing in China. (The unit at Northern is identical but carries the JIUNG name.)

The engines are indeed a Chinese knockoff of the popular 6.5 HP 196cc Honda Engine. “Supposedly” Honda has licensed the engine technology to the Chinese manufacturer of the product.

The Chinese company that makes the ELM3000 generators is a rather large, diverse, long-standing company with a reputation for “above average quality” Chinese made products (Jiung Manufacturing). There are many more Chinese companies making almost identical gensets.

The generators at PepBoys do have a six month limited warranty. But, it is only on the engine (not the generator) and requires paying for shipping to and from Buffalo. Probably not a very practical thing to do if you have warranty issues.

ELIM does supply replacement parts (a PDF parts manual is available on the ELIM web site). No prices are given for replacement parts nor is there an “availability listing”.

The generator head itself is a brushless design. The only really significant wear parts in the generator are the bearings – most likely universally available.

The published dB rating is 67 at 23 feet. This is “reasonably” quite for a generator of this size as most comparabl.... The 67 dB rating is the same as Honda gives their 3000 watt CycloInverter with a “look alike” eng...

[toprudder]

professor95 wrote:
I believe the 40026 may have a bonded neutral, even though the wiring diagram does not show it.

Nope. I checked the continuity and they are not connected. But, just as I came to that conclusion after checking it with my meter, I saw the label on the side that said "Floating Neutral". :S

This came with a wheel kit, which is nice, but I won't be installing it any time soon. Without the wheels, it will fit under the tonneau cover on my pickup. If/when I get a topper for the truck, I will install the wheels.

It came with a nice funnel for filling the oil, and it came with 0.6L of oil for the crankcase.

Filled with oil and fuel, I turned on the ignition switch and choked the carb - started on the first pull. A hot restart was a little more finicky, I had to choke it again for one pull then it fired up.

Speed and voltage regulation are good. 125 volts 62 Hz no load, 123v and 61Hz with the A/C on.

Definitely louder than the Hondas, but will be fine for the places I will be using it. With no load, the dominant noise by far is mechanical noise, except on the muffler side which the exhaust and mechanical noise are about equal. Under a load the exhaust noise goes up but on the other 3 sides it is still mostly mechanical noise.

I'm happy.

[blkfe]

mauricedorris wrote:
Here's my starting point.

For the sake of review here is where I am, mentally and logistically.

logistics... 89 class c, recent valve job, new tranny, new tires, brakes, etc... 60 K miles, gets me cross country AND BACK in relative comfort. Lots of extras. Generator sucks and never works reliably (when I need it to)

Mentally... me and this generator are getting a D-I-V-O-R-C-E. I WILL NOT put one more nickel into it. I am already into it an embarrassing amount over the past few years and it still doesn't work.

Here's what I got.

Generator compartment from the outside. Notice the screen door for ventilation.


Open door shows my "ex" and the space she is wasting.


Right side picture shows the generator tray it sits on and the open ground beneath that I hope will help with air flow


Left side shows more of the compartment and what seems to be a lower tray beneath the generator which probably protects it somewhat from road grime. The ground is still visible towards the back.


This is the current generator control and fuel connections. You can see where the existing fuel input is. The wires in the connector obviously connect to the remote switch and hour meter inside the RV. You can also see that I have 12 volts coming in from the three existing marine batteries that i have. I won't need the battery on the generator, that's for sure.


This shows the current generator connection to the RV. The output of the new generator needs to relace the connections that are here. WHen I am ready, I am sure I'll be asking how to wire a 30A female receptacle here (or something like that)


The last photo shows the bottom of the generator from the back. You can see the back of the existing resonator which exits to the other side of the RV. Just to the right of it is that lower tray that sits about 6-8 inches below where the generator compartment. That is where I think the fan will ultimately be placed.


One thing I did notice on what is the "discovery" part of my project is that the generator is bolted directly to the frame and supports. No vibration dampening whatsoever. Obviously, I'm going to do something about that.

First thing I'll do is remove the existing generator, cap off the existing fuel and power lines.

Next I'm going to go shopping for the replacement generator. Professor has me thinking about my decision for the larger engine, but we shall see.

I am thinking that I have quite a bit of open space in the compartment. I don't think I will need to take the box-in-a-box approach so long as I keep the muffler outside of the compartment. The open space should allow a good amount of the hot air to evacuate. Nonetheless, I will be adding a fan to make sure.

However, the box-in-a-box design will most certainly allow me more control over airflow.

I know Mr Wizard mounted his inside of the compartment on a sliding tray, but I will do two things differently on my initial test.

1. I will not have the fuel in the same compartment. I will use the fuel from the main tank.

2. I will add the fan to help evacuate the hot air. Lets just hope it pulls enough air off the generator and doesn't end up sucking the ambient air that's in the compartment.

I will remove the old generator by Monday and possibly pick up the new one tuesday or wednesday. I also need to look for that fuel pump.

FWIW... I am really nervous about doing this. But I am going to do it anyways. I will see this through to my inevitable success or failure. Success to me means getting the generator to run inside the compartment and having my wife be able to hit a switch inside and have it work.

stay tuned over the next two weeks .

This is going to look so cool with a new bright yellow genset installed.................
Brad

[MrWizard]

the Onan is a completely enclosed ducted system
the air starts at the genny head is pulled across the alternator head ,then across the cylinder heads and blows out the bottom on the left side, that huge squirrel cage blower is on the end of the crank shaft and turning at 1800rpm

I would skip the inside smaller box on the first try, and instead i would insulate the compartment walls with sound proofing like the professor has done.

and believe me a good tray slides quite easily, and makes the genny easy to service even if you are doing the ( build in & run while driving )

no unbolting and disconnecting to change sparkplug , oil, air filter etc.

[mauricedorris]

professor95 wrote:
The heat produced by the assembly with a 230 cc engine running under load will be roughly equivalent to having up to three 5,000 BTU portable electric heaters in the enclosure. 15,000 BTU is a lot of heat to get rid of. By putting the muffler outside of the enclosure, you can actually cut that down by at least 30%.

This is an absolute requirement. No shortcuts in this area.

professor95 wrote:
You are basically going to do what I did when I elected to mount my Champion in the "Cave" of my 5th wheel. I assume you have looked back to see how I accomplished my install.

I have been reading and reading and reading and reading. I've been making notes on what pages things were discussed so I can go back to them. I've also read "blkfe" and "old & slow" post which have excellent info also. There's no doubt I am following a path and not trying to blaze a new one. The key here will be to see how easy it is to apply the principles.

professor95 wrote:

There is a large opening for incoming air - this is good!

NOT putting the genny in yet another box is also a good idea. A larger enclosure will help in the directing of cooling air to the needed intake locations. A small box would be restrictive and most likely would simply pull air across the generator rather than through the needed cooling paths (engine fan shroud and genny rear cap). This is an important lesson I learned from previous enclosures - the bigger the compartment the genny sits in the better the cooling will be unless you use specific ducted air flow like I did with my last box and Brad is using on his fifth wheel.

Yes the compartment is big enough to handle the onan which will generate a fair amount of heat as a twin cylinder engine design. But I also saw the smaller box within a box approach as a way to guarantee that I was pulling air across the generator and engine. There would be more a vacuum there. But Onan does does not do that. There is no fan except whats built into the generator head. I think that the compartment may already be engineered to help me out a bit.

professor95 wrote:

All you can do is put it in there and give it a spin.

yep... nothing to lose.

professor95 wrote:

The use of a remote "outdoor" thermometer and/or an infrared temperature unit will tell you a lot about what is happening.
As far as vibration goes, I suggested to Brad the use of automotive valve springs...

Temp is part of phase 1, vibration and noise is phase 2

professor95 wrote:

Don't overlook or disregard what the Wiz is telling you either. Having the generator on a slide-out tray is really a good idea.

Its a nice option for some, but I cannot see my wife sliding out that tray. She might break a nail. (I like that she keeps her nails nice!)

Phase 3 will be to test it while the motorhome is actually driving down the road.

professor95 wrote:

The size and type of fan is extremely important. The fan must be capable of operating at a high static pressure.

I saw that. I'll be using at least a 1000cfm fan to start. Lets hope it isn't too noisy.

Today is the day I remove the old genset, Tomorrow, I'll be gathering materials. Tuesday is when I'll be at the duropower showroom to pick up the unit.

[professor95]

mauricedorris wrote:
Here's my starting point.

Anytime you increase engine displacement you will also increase heat. In essence, it is a larger "fire" in the box.

The heat produced by the assembly with a 230 cc engine running under load will be roughly equivalent to having up to three 5,000 BTU portable electric heaters in the enclosure. 15,000 BTU is a lot of heat to get rid of. By putting the muffler outside of the enclosure, you can actually cut that down by at least 30%.

You are basically going to do what I did when I elected to mount my Champion in the "Cave" of my 5th wheel. I assume you have looked back to see how I accomplished my install.

Looking at your photos it appears that you should achieve similar results with your project.

There is a large opening for incoming air - this is good!

NOT putting the genny in yet another box is also a good idea. A larger enclosure will help in the directing of cooling air to the needed intake locations. A small box would be restrictive and most likely would simply pull air across the generator rather than through the needed cooling paths (engine fan shroud and genny rear cap). This is an important lesson I learned from previous enclosures - the bigger the compartment the genny sits in the better the cooling will be unless you use specific ducted air flow like I did with my last box and Brad is using on his fifth wheel.

All you can do is put it in there and give it a spin. The use of a remote "outdoor" thermometer and/or an infrared temperature unit will tell you a lot about what is happening. I use(d) both to get my unit set-up.

As far as vibration goes, I suggested to Brad the use of automotive valve springs. He tried the idea and found out they would work. When I mounted mine I used some 2" thick rubber blocks cut to make vibration dampers. They work extremely well but may be harder to outsource materials than springs.

Don't overlook or disregard what the Wiz is telling you either. Having the generator on a slide-out tray is really a good idea. You will loose some sound dreading benefits but could eliminate the relocation of parts and dismantling of the unit. Shucks, you could even use a linear actuator to make an automatic slide-out for the generator. BTW, HWH makes and sells such a system.

No need to be scared of the project. Look at it as a "learning" adventure! If you approach it right rather than just sticking it in the enclosure and hoping for the best, you will be successful. We will all learn and gain additional data from your project - each presents different and unique challenges.

The size and type of fan is extremely important. The fan must be capable of operating at a high static pressure. Regular household fans don't meet this spec. I have had great success with an electric automotive radiator cooling fan. They are designed to run at high speeds with significant static pressure. The only problem with these fans is they require more current at 12 VDC than the generator provides thru it's 12 VDC outlet or battery. You will need to include a larger battery bank and charger into the system - perhaps tap into the MH's 12 VDC system for fan power.

Again, if you look back you will find photos of the fan I used and more specs about its performance.

[MrWizard]

if necessity (HEAT) dictates, you can place the genny on a sliding tray and still have remote start and you can use the door as a 'rain shield', just have to pull it out before starting, the exhaust can still be mounted under the sliding tray, just remove the existing genny supports to get them out of the way, the slides will bolt to edges of the compartment and the tray is plate steel between the slides

[mauricedorris]

Here's my starting point.

For the sake of review here is where I am, mentally and logistically.

logistics... 89 class c, recent valve job, new tranny, new tires, brakes, etc... 60 K miles, gets me cross country AND BACK in relative comfort. Lots of extras. Generator sucks and never works reliably (when I need it to)

Mentally... me and this generator are getting a D-I-V-O-R-C-E. I WILL NOT put one more nickel into it. I am already into it an embarrassing amount over the past few years and it still doesn't work.

Here's what I got.

Generator compartment from the outside. Notice the screen door for ventilation.


Open door shows my "ex" and the space she is wasting.


Right side picture shows the generator tray it sits on and the open ground beneath that I hope will help with air flow


Left side shows more of the compartment and what seems to be a lower tray beneath the generator which probably protects it somewhat from road grime. The ground is still visible towards the back.


This is the current generator control and fuel connections. You can see where the existing fuel input is. The wires in the connector obviously connect to the remote switch and hour meter inside the RV. You can also see that I have 12 volts coming in from the three existing marine batteries that i have. I won't need the battery on the generator, that's for sure.


This shows the current generator connection to the RV. The output of the new generator needs to relace the connections that are here. WHen I am ready, I am sure I'll be asking how to wire a 30A female receptacle here (or something like that)


The last photo shows the bottom of the generator from the back. You can see the back of the existing resonator which exits to the other side of the RV. Just to the right of it is that lower tray that sits about 6-8 inches below where the generator compartment. That is where I think the fan will ultimately be placed.


One thing I did notice on what is the "discovery" part of my project is that the generator is bolted directly to the frame and supports. No vibration dampening whatsoever. Obviously, I'm going to do something about that.

First thing I'll do is remove the existing generator, cap off the existing fuel and power lines.

Next I'm going to go shopping for the replacement generator. Professor has me thinking about my decision for the larger engine, but we shall see.

I am thinking that I have quite a bit of open space in the compartment. I don't think I will need to take the box-in-a-box approach so long as I keep the muffler outside of the compartment. The open space should allow a good amount of the hot air to evacuate. Nonetheless, I will be adding a fan to make sure.

However, the box-in-a-box design will most certainly allow me more control over airflow.

I know Mr Wizard mounted his inside of the compartment on a sliding tray, but I will do two things differently on my initial test.

1. I will not have the fuel in the same compartment. I will use the fuel from the main tank.

2. I will add the fan to help evacuate the hot air. Lets just hope it pulls enough air off the generator and doesn't end up sucking the ambient air that's in the compartment.

I will remove the old generator by Monday and possibly pick up the new one tuesday or wednesday. I also need to look for that fuel pump.

FWIW... I am really nervous about doing this. But I am going to do it anyways. I will see this through to my inevitable success or failure. Success to me means getting the generator to run inside the compartment and having my wife be able to hit a switch inside and have it work.

stay tuned over the next two weeks .

[mauricedorris]

professor95 wrote:

When you say "7.5 hp engine" I am assuming that you are considering this model Duropower.

I do not know of anyone on this thread that has bought that model or tried it in an enclosed environment. The larger the engine, the more heat you are going to have to get rid of. While 25 cc does not outwardly seem like much, you are venturing into some unknown territory. I also question the 67 dBA sound rating. My knee jerk is it will be 2-3 dBA higher than the 6.5 hp engine which is also rated at 67 dBA.

Most all of the guys have been using a Chinese generator comparable to this model in the Duropower line. Other brands like the Champion are in the same size class.

Old & Slow had a 6.5 hp Duropower with electric start. I don't see the electric start in this size currently listed on Duropower's web site.

Well, others have indicated power loss at higher elevations. If I am camping at 8000-9000ft, I hope that a few more ponies up front will help compensate for the loss as I climb higher. We run a 13500btu roof air unit, a microwave and sometime a 2000 watt electric grill. We are not energy efficient at all :S

Isn't a bigger motor better? I do realize it comes with more heat and little more noise. But, that onan that I have is bigger and pretty damn noisy. Pictures of my generator compartment are in the next post.

I wanted something where the nominal output was 3500 watts. Wife and kids don't want to worry about wattage. I want to see if its possible to let them turn all their******on at once.

I know its a risk. No worries.

[professor95]

mauricedorris wrote:


1. I will check out getting the duropower generator with estart and the 7.5 hp engine, which is bigger. I know it will burn more gas.

When you say "7.5 hp engine" I am assuming that you are considering this model Duropower.

I do not know of anyone on this thread that has bought that model or tried it in an enclosed environment. The larger the engine, the more heat you are going to have to get rid of. While 25 cc does not outwardly seem like much, you are venturing into some unknown territory. I also question the 67 dBA sound rating. My knee jerk is it will be 2-3 dBA higher than the 6.5 hp engine which is also rated at 67 dBA.

Most all of the guys have been using a Chinese generator comparable to this model in the Duropower line. Other brands like the Champion are in the same size class.

Old & Slow had a 6.5 hp Duropower with electric start. I don't see the electric start in this size currently listed on Duropower's web site.

If you search back in this thread you will find a detailed write up that I did on adding an electric starter. The kit will fit most all 5.5 to 6.5 Chinese engines built to the basic specifications of the Honda GX160 and GX200. The only modification needed to use the kit is the removal of the start key from the provided shell and attachment to the generator front panel. I have done two of these ES add on's and Old & Slow has done one as well. The kit is a little over $100 with shipping.

The Walbro fuel pump is needed since the carburetor on these engines will not work with much fuel pressure, thus electric pumps are a no-no unless you design a near zero pressure recirculating fuel loop. The vacuum operated pump is designed to provide pressure in relationship to engine port vacuum. In most systems using this pump a marine type primer bulb is needed in the fuel line to get the fuel up to the pump from the MH fuel tank. Once primed, the vacuum pump will work well and re priming is not needed unless the system is not started for a day or more. A vacuum port must be added to the carburetor or insulator behind the carburetor.

Again, these units were never designed for compartment use. I have helped several folks with setting up the generators so they will work in a compartment. Each situation presents different and new challenges to compensate for. Successful compartment mounting can be accomplished if anal attention is paid to the generator air flow patterns and heat extraction.

You also need to build in a high temperature engine shut down switch for the compartment. The sensor should be in the exhaust air flow path for the heated air. I have found that 165 degrees F is the absolute maximum allowable temperature there to keep the AVR and generator itself from frying. I use a 135 degree switch on my unit. Engine oil temperatures on these engines are high under a normal operating environment. It is advisable to include a secondary shut down sensor in or on the engine crankcase. Automotive sensors are commonly available in a range of 180 degrees to 215 degrees F. I use a 180 degree sensor.

[MrWizard]

sounds like you have all the basics down, airflow for cooling that can follow the OEM path around the engine components is a necessity, sounds like your on the right track.

[mauricedorris]

OK... a few questions. I've spent much of this friday night / saturday morning reading through war and peace here. This is extremely good information. Here are my thoughts.

1. I will check out getting the duropower generator with estart and the 7.5 hp engine, which is bigger. I know it will burn more gas.

2. I'll start by building a box that resembles the enclosure on my class c. that will be easier to deal with and I won't have to be so quick to tak a hacksaw to the frame of my new generator. I'm no expert fabricator and want to really make sure that I do this correctly. I'll make sure that the clearances are identical.

I do have the screen door on the front of the compartment as well as a somewhat open bottom. I will duplicate this in building my test box.

3. I read that mounting an exaust fan under the generator is best. I'll do that.

4. Muffler and exhaust goes outside the box. Got it!

5. Walbro vacuum fuel pump is what I'll probably need to draw fuel from my main tank. It should not be hard to simulate this.

6. Assuming I am patient and persistent, I might then be successful.

7. The last and final step will be to disassemble the generator components and remount them onto a smaller tray that would fit inside of my existing compartment.

A few of of you have tried very similar things before. I am reading all of that and will most certainly follow your efforts.

Am I looking at this the right way. It seems like a fun thing to do and it shouldnt be too expensive to try. I am reasonably handy with and have in my possession some wood working tools and a wire welder. I can at least build a prototype to see.

If it doesn't work out, then I'll be building the slide out tray LOL

[mauricedorris]

Yes... I like the tray. I'm going to try to take the extra step of getting it to run inside the compartment. Obviously, I'm going to remove the built-in gas tank and try to replace it with a fan that will come on when the generator is running. I'll have to figure out how to move the air and where it will go.

It should be fun figuring this out.

Its important that this is convenient for my wife. I just don't see her going through too much trouble to get it to run.

Does the Champion have e-start? I don't see it?

[MrWizard]

I used the OEM champ gas tank, and only ran the genny with the tray 'OUT' while parked. this allowed full air circulation all the way around and NO heat problems, NOT as quiet as putting it in a box, but this worked well for me.

[mauricedorris]

MrWizard wrote:

Mr Wizard. if a picture is worth a thousand words, you just gave me 3000 words.

I'm going to measure my compartment to see how to fit a generator in it. I will break down the current generator assembly if I have to and put it in in pieces. It will be much smaller once I do that. I can then start experimenting what to do with the heat.

I'm leaning heavily towards the duropower because it has a 7.5 hp motor.

Chances are, I'll use the existing gas thats already plumbed into the compartment. There's already wiring there to connect up a remote switch and to plug directly into the motorhome power.

One quick trip to the muffler shop and i'm sure they'll connect the muffler to the existing exhaust on the other side.

Its either duropower, champion or powermax for me. I'm going to check them all out today.

This should be a fun project.

[toprudder]

professor95 wrote:
I believe the 40026 may have a bonded neutral, even though the wiring diagram does not show it.

I will let you know. If it is bonded, I will leave it that way.