A/C couldn't keep up. Help?

[helenozee]

Last weekend I spent four days living in my RV, parked in front of my daughter's house in Phoenix, AZ. It was approximately 115 degrees outside. I live in Las Vegas, NV, and it was similar weather here. Driving to Phoenix with my generator going the whole time, it was 99 degrees inside when we arrived (my dogs and I). The first couple days I ran either the front A/C or the back. Running my generator 24/7, the temperature inside in the front or back only cooled to mid to low 90s. I called on the 3rd day and talked to a repair person who told me I had to run both because they're ducted. I also went to Home Depot and purchased a Toshiba room A/C. With that helping, I was able to get to the mid to high 80s. I could not plug in to their house because they only have 15 amp. It kept tripping the breaker.

I don't usually travel in my RV in temps like this. It's a 2005 Fleetwood Discovery diesel pusher, model 35H. In the years up till now, I would only use the A/C a few times a year, just to cool down when it was maybe high 80s outside, and only for a few hours. I do dog agility and don't go anywhere that's really hot. When I visited Phoenix I wouldn't take the RV. Now I need to take my dogs and need to take the RV.

Last summer I let my ex-husband use the RV to live in while his house was completed in Pahrump, NV. The weather was in the 100s, and he used the A/C 24/7, hooked to electricity. Near the end of the time he lived in it, he said the motor was going out on the A/C, and he replaced it. (I had to buy it! :M)

Here are my questions: Do I need new air conditioner(s)? Do any of them work if it gets that hot? Is something else worn out from using it so much last summer?

Someone just suggested I get a roll of foam foil insulation for my windows. I'm going back to Phoenix in a few weeks and dreading the thought of living in that boiling hot tin can for another few days.

Comments or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

[pianotuna]

wapiticountry wrote:

An evaporative cooler will make things worse, not better. It would counteract the air conditioning system that actually removes moisture as part of the cooling process. What might help a bit would be to spray the outside of the rig with water occasionally. The tradeoff would be a whole lot of hard water staining. Covering the windows with reflective sun shades and having the AC units cleaned and serviced would be my first steps.

You misunderstand. I'm suggesting misting the condenser on the roof. No humidity would be introduced to interior of the RV.

[time2roll]

valhalla360 wrote:
Run both units and try to get it cold in the morning, so hopefully, you only lose ground slowly over the course of the day.

Yes and don't start in the morning when you wake up. A/C needs to run all night probably set at 68 or lower. Put an extra blanket on if by some chance you get chilly. Never stop the A/C from running.

If at some point the units seem to be blowing and cooling less you may want to check if they are icing up. This might seem odd in the desert but with showers, cooking etc there can still be significant humidity in the RV. Remove the lower trim and look for ice on the evaporator coil.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

People that live in dry heat ditch compressors and freon, period.

Whatever it takes, you must use evaporative cooling. It isn't simple. it isn't cheap but copy what the gambling halls used to do in Vegas for RV customers.

A four-foot cube of evaporative (swamp) cooler will OUTcool three roof A/C units, This is not an exaggeration, been there, done that in the Antelope Valley in California where the nearest shade was miles away.

Swamp coolers require 120-volt power and perhaps 50 - 80 gallons a day of water,

Mine was on the roof but a side exhaust will blow in an open window. The air exhausts through similarly open windows at the other end of the rig. This means the air must blow through the full length of the rig.

A carpenter can build the platform. Foam rubber seals the unit against the open window. I made a skirt of astroturf for the platform.

While out of doors approached 115F inside the temp was 72F to 75F. The blast of incoming air was too chilly for me to stand (under).

In Michoacan, I am stuck using refrigeration because the humidity is above 40%.

It's interesting to note when starting an A/C how the humidity must fall to 60% before temps start to drop.

[wapiticountry]

pianotuna wrote:
I'd be tempted to get a mist system to assist the air conditioners. There are some that do 1/2 gallon per hour per nozzle.

The only place in my RV world where I tripped a breaker, inside my rv, was on Mesa AZ on July 29.

If you have a way to monitor voltage--set the fridge to propane--and try running just one air conditioner on the 15 amp shore power. If the voltage stays at 108 or above--then you are fine. Do check voltage often.

Do you have a tarp you could place over the front windshield? If not, pick one up at a dollar store.

An evaporative cooler will make things worse, not better. It would counteract the air conditioning system that actually removes moisture as part of the cooling process. What might help a bit would be to spray the outside of the rig with water occasionally. The tradeoff would be a whole lot of hard water staining. Covering the windows with reflective sun shades and having the AC units cleaned and serviced would be my first steps.

[Lwiddis]

20 to 25 degrees cooling is normal IMO.

[TomG2]

Close the slides if possible. Move to Flagstaff where it is 20-30 degrees cooler.

[dougrainer]

A1ARealtorRick wrote:

azrving wrote:
AC cant drop the temp 45 degrees. Maybe 20 at best if well insulated etc

Yup, 20 degrees is it. If it's 115 outside all you can do is try to enjoy the cool 95-degree comfort of being inside, while you pull out the map and determine your next destination!

There is no such thing as a 20 degree drop FROM OUTSIDE AMBIENT TEMPS. The 20 degree is the INSIDE differential. Here in Texas when it is 105 degrees, a standard Motorhome with 2 ducted AC units will easily get the interior to 75 degrees. I DO THAT ALL THE TIME WHEN I AM WORKING ON THEM. When I am getting set up to work that day, and it is HOT(100 to 105), I stage my units on our lot and turn on the AC units and max cold so when I pull them in it is cold/cool in the RV. After a few hours it is usually in the 75 to 80 range. NOW, to the OP, her unit is 15 years old. She NEEDS the AC units checked out by a qualified RV AC technician/shop. Odds are one of the 2 units is NOT operating and cooling. I state this from her post that stated Genset ON and could only get to 99 degrees. Doug

[RoyB]

You really need to park in the shade somewhere that will help big time...

What cooling you gain during the night gets immediately eat up when the sun comes up if you are not sitting in the shade somewhere...

I remember my Maricopa days... It is a brutal place to stay for sure...

Our Air conditioning back then was water based haha... Had to go up the roof to change out the filter and had fight off the black widow spiders first...

Roy Ken

[RetiredRealtorR]

azrving wrote:
AC cant drop the temp 45 degrees. Maybe 20 at best if well insulated etc

Yup, 20 degrees is it. If it's 115 outside all you can do is try to enjoy the cool 95-degree comfort of being inside, while you pull out the map and determine your next destination!

[2112]

Scottiemom wrote:
It was recommended we put the silver bubble wrap (insulation) in the windows. It's available at Lowe's or Home Depot. We did that and it helped immensely. If you are in the area a lot, I would even line your cabinets with it. I have not done that, but people say it helps a lot to keep not only heat, but cold from permeating the coach.

Putting the bubble insulation on the back walls of the cabinets is a good idea. I haven't thought of that. Our pantry and closets get HOT.

I have reflective bubble insulation covering all windows, insulated "pillows" covering the 3 roof vents, layers of heavy thread count white linen covering the shower skylight and the best I can do with 1 15K AC in a 32' FW is 16* less than whatever it is outside. If it's 100* outside with the sun beating down on the FW, it's going to be about 85* inside. It Is What It Is

[sch911]

1. Don't go to Phoenix in the summer.
2. If you have to find shade.

These solutions are free...

[Scottiemom]

Most techs will tell you the A/C is good for lowering the temp 20°. The first trip we took to Arizona with our two dogs, it was difficult to keep things cool. It was recommended we put the silver bubblewrap (insulation) in the windows. It's available at Lowe's or HOme Depot. We did that and it helped immensely. If you are in the area a lot, I would even line your cabinets with it. I have not done that, but people say it helps a lot to keep not only heat, but cold from permeating the coach.

Your generator should definitely be able to handle both A/C's. I would run them both and keep those doggies comfortable. The alternative as has been suggested is doggie daycare or a pet friendly hotel.

Dale

[wa8yxm]

helenozee wrote:
Last weekend I spent four days living in my RV, parked in front of my daughter's house in Phoenix, AZ.

Pheonix in August. NO way in literal HELL will your RV's AC keep up.

It has problems with 90's 100's are beyond hope.

And remember folks. it's getting hotter out there.

[valhalla360]

But it's a dry heat...So is an oven's heat.

Run both units and try to get it cold in the morning, so hopefully, you only lose ground slowly over the course of the day.

Not much chance in Phoenix but can you find a shady site?

Can you adjust the air/con vents so they focus all the cold air in one part of the rig? We've closed the bedroom off during the day and opened the direct venting, so the main living area gets the bulk of the cool air.

[midnightsadie]

sounds like its normal. hard to cool a box made of aluminum.