cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

AC/DC Compressor Refrigerators

Community Alumni
Not applicable
I was looking at a motorhome that was equipped with an all-electric compressor refrigerator. I have never seen one before in a motorhome.

I found a video on the net about the pros and cons of compressor v. absorption units and some of the pros on the compressor units is the ability to regulate the temperature much better and the fridge does not need to be leveled. One of the negatives is the sound they make when the compressor comes on, just like the residential units.

It's worth mentioning the RV came equipped with 200 watts of solar panels to help keep the batteries charged. As someone that dry camps frequently, I'm wondering how often the generator has to run to keep the batteries charged. As you all know, absorption refrigerators can run practically forever on very little propane.

I'd like to hear from anyone that has one of these RV compressor refrigerators, not the residential ones.

The link below shows the refrigerator I saw in the motorhome. There is next to nothing on the net about these fridges so I'm assuming they're fairly new.

https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Norcold-AC-DC-RV-Refrigerator-DE006-1r-built-in.html
38 REPLIES 38

Community Alumni
Not applicable
jplante4 wrote:
We have the new Dometic AC/DC compressor in the store. When we first got it we hooked it up to a group 27 12v battery and it ran for 40 hours before the battery got down to 10.7 volts. Then we plugged it in and watched the temp. It stayed constant until the whole thing stopped working in 2 months time.


Are you saying the fridge stopped working as in it failed after being used for only two months? If so, what was the cause of the failure?

For those that are wondering if an inverter is needed to run the fridge. From what I understand the fridge runs on 12V DC so an inverter is not needed.

3_tons
Explorer III
Explorer III
mobeewan wrote:
I've been looking at Novakool. They make Marine refridgerators and freezers that can run on 12v or 24v. One similar in size to the Norcold is only a couple hundred dollars or so more expensive, but they are proven units used in boats. I've seen a couple YouTube videos were people built their own campervans from scratch and installed Novakool units. They also had solar panels installed on the roofs with about 400 to 600 watts of battery.

Since I plan on using solar in the future and building a camper van or enclosed 16 foot utility trailer/camper with 800 to 1000 watts of solar I'll probably go one of 2 routes. One is a large Domestic chest refridgerators/freezer in freezer only mode and a dorm fridge. The other route is a tall Novakool with freezer on the bottom and if needed a small dometic chest freezer/fridge I can fire up if I needed a little extra freezer space.

If I stick with just my 28 ft TT I am considering adding solar any way. I might also replace my weak Norcold with a Novakool.


For the Novakool RFU 6800 they list the amps at 5.2 @12v, so a sufficient of solar to augment makes perfect sense.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
There are two types of All-Electric Compressor refrigerators

One is the typical RESIDENTIAL type 100-300 watts running. Starting can be over 500 to 1000 watts.

The other is the high effiency or "Danfoss class" (Danfoss is one of the companies that make this type of compressor. there are others as well)

Norcold and Dometic both offered units of this type.. As do other companies in other formats.. For example I have an aux freezer that is 13 years old and of this type (it is a chest freezer about the size of a 35-40 gallon ice chest type cooler but not as big inside) These units typically run on 12 or 120 volt via a power conversion system and inverter on board.. Typically draw 30 to 50 watts running As I said mine is 13 years old. I run it on 12 volts. unless there is a issue on the 12 volt side of life than I run it on 120.

Very happy with it.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

jplante4
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have the new Dometic AC/DC compressor in the store. When we first got it we hooked it up to a group 27 12v battery and it ran for 40 hours before the battery got down to 10.7 volts. Then we plugged it in and watched the temp. It stayed constant until the whole thing stopped working in 2 months time.

I have 200 watts of solar and 4 GC2s and after a few dry camping trips, I'll be adding another 200 watts of solar. We ran the generator every other day, both to charge the bank and run the DW's hair dryer.
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
A 7 CF fridge? No thank you!
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
Depending on your needs, I have seen a lot of high end fifth wheels (at shows) with standard household refrigerators. I would NOT limit myself to an AC/DC refrigerator although one that runs off of DC might be a bit more efficient. Don't turn your nose up at 24VDC.

Solar/generator use is hard to say. First of course, is power consumption by the 'fridge and the inverter, if you are using one. If the 'fridge is going to run off of an inverter, make sure it is a pure sine wave inverter. As for a house battery bank, you want a minimum to TWO 6V golf cart batteries. 4 would be better.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Many yrs ago I had a Norcold AC/DC in a 25 ft Bayliner for 15 yrs, and other than getting a larger alternator on the 350 chev, there was never a problem. But we seldom went out in hot weather, so good reason why battery power was never a problem w/ 2 6v golf car batts.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
I've been looking at Novakool. They make Marine refridgerators and freezers that can run on 12v or 24v. One similar in size to the Norcold is only a couple hundred dollars or so more expensive, but they are proven units used in boats. I've seen a couple YouTube videos were people built their own campervans from scratch and installed Novakool units. They also had solar panels installed on the roofs with about 400 to 600 watts of battery.

Since I plan on using solar in the future and building a camper van or enclosed 16 foot utility trailer/camper with 800 to 1000 watts of solar I'll probably go one of 2 routes. One is a large Domestic chest refridgerators/freezer in freezer only mode and a dorm fridge. The other route is a tall Novakool with freezer on the bottom and if needed a small dometic chest freezer/fridge I can fire up if I needed a little extra freezer space.

If I stick with just my 28 ft TT I am considering adding solar any way. I might also replace my weak Norcold with a Novakool.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Adequate solar doesnโ€™t help keep the batteries charged. It fully recharges almost every day. Do an energy use survey. Thatโ€™s where you start to determine necessary battery AHs, solar panels, controller and wiring.

Info says 3.2 amps when running on 12 volt. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/REFER-DE0061TR-p/72-4825.htm
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad