AC with heat pump problem????

[golf_bears]

I have a new 2017 RV with a Dometic 15,000 BTU air conditioner. The AC is equipped with a heat pump. The heat pump was working great.

Now the heat pump trips the breaker after 3-4 hours of use.

I had a 2008 RV with a 15,000 BTU AC and a heat pump that gave me the same problem. Had it checked out a number of times but no one could fix it permanently.

Anyone else out there have a similar problem? If so were you able to get it fixed? If so, what was the fix?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions on how to fix the problem permanently.

[golf_bears]

dougrainer, I'm only telling you what the local dealers told me. As you said, sounds like they do not want to work on my problem.

It's the 20 amp breaker that is popping.

Also got Dometic to confirm that the TSB you posted is real but that it was issued in 2007 and does not apply to my 2017 RV AC. Probably would have fixed my 2008 heat pump problem.

[dougrainer]

There is NO certification separate for AC versus Heat Pump. Anybody that states that is either stupid or they just do not want to work on your unit. IF you are a Dometic Authorized Service center, you should have techs that can work on the units. Dometic will walk any tech thru diagnostics if there is a uncommon problem. Now, NOBODY will allow you to do any type warranty work or do the work yourself. Period. Call Ford and ask the same thing on your Ford if you have one under warranty:B
Which breaker trips? The 20 amp for the HP unit or the main or pole breaker? Doug

The ONLY difference between a HP and an AC is the addition of a reversing valve. Nothing else.

[golf_bears]

dougrainer, Thanks for that great info. I've contacted Dometic, spoke with a person that can't confirmed this info. They will not give me a phone number to the Warranty Dept. They say I have to go through a dealer to diagnose the problem, report it to the the Dometic Warranty department to get authorization to fix the problem under warranty. I think by the time all this happens I'll be frozen in a pine box.

They also can't provide me with a local dealer, that I havn't already called, who is certified to work on heat pumps. The local dealers are certified to work on ACs but not heat pumps. Go figure.

Can you provide me the souce of the information you've posted so that I can get Dometic to help further.

Thanks again for all your help, graetly appreciated.

[wa8yxm]

Step one when the A/C (or heat pump) trips the breakers is to check the coils to see if they need cleaning.

From there on read previous replies.. Many good suggestiong.

I like to check for clogged coils (And filters in this case) first because repairs costing $0.00 really appeal to me :).

[dougrainer]

golf_bears wrote:
dougrainer, Paper work doesn't say what model it is but the model number on the warranty is 651816CXX120. The unit is ducted.

CA Traveler, In my discussion with Dometic yesterday they informed me that the heat pump will operate in temp range of 32 to 55 deg. F. I've found that at temps below 37 Deg F that the heat pump is pretty much useless. When temps are going to be below 38 deg. F I stop using the heat pump and turn on the fireplace and the furnace.

You have a Penguin Lo Profile. There are gaskets between the top side coils and the top plastic cover. Those gaskets make sure all the air flows correctly thru the condenser. IF those gaskets are missing or incorrectly installed, then the compressor will indeed overload and trip the breaker in Heat Pump Mode. Will not do it in COOL mode. So, you need to contac Dometic and ask them about the unpublished TSB about this concern. Doug

See Bulletin A30-7A
Note: If the foam is installed on
the shroud and you are getting high
amps/breakers tripping, remove
foam and call Warranty Department
to order foam kit part#
3312081.000. Install Foam Kit on
Unit – NOT the shroud.
It is okay to have foam
on shroud – only if
experiencing problems
does it need to be
replaced

• Symptom – High
Amps, Tripping
Breakers

• The foam makes an air
tight seal which forces
the air through the
condenser – Air will
travel the path of least
resistance if foam is
missing, compressed or
installed improperly.

[golf_bears]

dougrainer, Paper work doesn't say what model it is but the model number on the warranty is 651816CXX120. The unit is ducted.

CA Traveler, In my discussion with Dometic yesterday they informed me that the heat pump will operate in temp range of 32 to 55 deg. F. I've found that at temps below 37 Deg F that the heat pump is pretty much useless. When temps are going to be below 38 deg. F I stop using the heat pump and turn on the fireplace and the furnace.

[dougrainer]

Really need model number(Penguin or Brisk Air) and is the unit ducted or non ducted? Doug

[CA_Traveler]

It's not just dirt but also critter nests, remove the cover and check.

Measure the voltage on both legs with the A/C running and post.

It's likely to cold for the unit. At those temps my system will turn off the heat pump and start the furnace. It won't change back until about 44F.

Call Dometic with your model number and ask them about temp operation.

[FunTwoDrv]

Could 37 to 40 be below it's capability to produce heat? I seem to recall our Dometic would shut down around 40 degrees. It didn't trip the breaker though.

Gary

[golf_bears]

Found this video on YouTube, what do you guys think?

Heat Pump Issue

To answer a few of your questions, temp range when problem occurs is about 37 to 40 degrees. Haven't checked any voltages because problem usually occurs late at night.

dougrainer, agree with your comment, very strange that same problem occurs on two new units ten years apart.

Haven't checked to see how clean the evaporator and condenser are. It's a new RV and really haven't used the AC or heat pump that much.

SaltiDawg, the AC works just fine, no tripping of the breaker. We were in some 90+ temps a few times this summer and the AC worked just fine.

So, if the heat pump ices up and can't deice while still trying to draw power, I suspect the wiring and breaker would heat up quite a bit and the breaker would pop?

What do you guys think?

Also, anyone else out there have the same problem?

[SaltiDawg]

In a residential or commercial installation, you do not have a "AC equipped with a heat pump," but rather you have a Heat Pump. It typically has a "reversing valve" which serves to allow you to cool the inside (A/C) or cool the outside (Heat inside.)

Assuming it is the same in the OP's unit, it begs the question as to whether when cooling the inside with a high demand does the same tripping occur after 3-4 hours?

Remember, I'm not a RV person. Just trying to help. 😄

[wolfe10]

How clean are the evaporator and condenser. Wonder if high head pressure is involved.

Yes, that is probably third on my "suspect" list with capacitor and voltage being more likely.

[dougrainer]

To have 2 units 10 years apart experience the same EXACT problem is way out there. What is the outside temp when it is running? Doug

[Ivylog]

What is the voltage coming into the rig after several hours. Measure on both legs.