Advice on deep cycle setup?

[JohnnyGood]

Hello,

I have a Safari van that I've converted into a camper.

I replaced the starting battery with a Duracell Ultra Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling) Battery that cost $105 (got it at batteries plus).

I'm running a multi-cooker (700 watts) with a 600 watt inverter (yes, I realize that there's a difference, but it seems to work fine (?).

I want to get another deep cycle house battery, as it seems to max out the battery after 5 minutes of use (the inverter starts beeping).

Does anyone have any suggestions on batteries to get, or how to rig this up? I'm a contractor and have some experience with electricity, but I don't understand all the ins and outs of a deep cycle power setup / battery power etc.'

I also want to get a heater installed for minimal use: http://www.my12voltstore.com/DC_Thermal_SA12_2000_12_Volt_Turbo_DC_Heater_p/sa12-2000.htm

Any tips welcome!

L

[JohnnyGood]

red31 wrote:
Battery type 'SLD'.

After playing with the controller and attempting to change charge voltages I contacted Grape.

'Thanks for getting in touch. The charging voltages cannot be changed on this controller. The app enables other settings to be altered (such as EQ cycle time, battery capacity, etc.), but the charging voltages are tied to the specific battery type settings. The only voltage settings that can be adjusted are the two "over-discharge" values. Please let me know if you have any other questions.'

I sure thought in the past I was able to change more, I know I had changed ABS time from 120 to 180 mins but several attempts the last several days and I can't seem to get much to change/save.

I use the load feature and have changed those settings via the app.

Thanks a lot for the info Red. I will play with it and keep y'all posted. I've had the app for a few days.

L

[JohnnyGood]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Battery type AGM::dicharge limit 12.1 volts::limit of absorbsion 14.4::Float at 60°F 13.6vdc

Fine tune later

Gotcha - thanks Mex.

L

[JohnnyGood]

pianotuna wrote:
Johnny,

Do the capacity test once you have the battery fully recharged. Then adjust the settings to "fit" the numbers.

You do want to "dance on the needles", at least initially.

Hi Don,

Thanks for the suggestions. How do I know when I have it fully recharged?

By "dance on the needles" - do you mean watch the numbers closely?

L

[full_mosey]

L;

Some controllers have a feature to control overnight lighting and have separate LOAD terminals. In this context, this amounts to a low Voltage disconnect(over-discharge) that shuts the lighting/load off to conserve the battery.

I can't see any use for the load controls.

HTH;
John

[red31]

Battery type 'SLD'.

After playing with the controller and attempting to change charge voltages I contacted Grape.

'Thanks for getting in touch. The charging voltages cannot be changed on this controller. The app enables other settings to be altered (such as EQ cycle time, battery capacity, etc.), but the charging voltages are tied to the specific battery type settings. The only voltage settings that can be adjusted are the two "over-discharge" values. Please let me know if you have any other questions.'

I sure thought in the past I was able to change more, I know I had changed ABS time from 120 to 180 mins but several attempts the last several days and I can't seem to get much to change/save.

I use the load feature and have changed those settings via the app.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Battery type AGM::dicharge limit 12.1 volts::limit of absorbsion 14.4::Float at 60°F 13.6vdc

Fine tune later

[pianotuna]

Johnny,

Do the capacity test once you have the battery fully recharged. Then adjust the settings to "fit" the numbers.

You do want to "dance on the needles", at least initially.

[JohnnyGood]

HI All,

I think I'm going to attempt the alternator swap tomorrow morning.

I got some goop today. I plan to do that fix soon, although it's just one of the flaps and it's just barely popping up (I wonder if it's the plastic side ...). ...

Does anyone have any suggestions on the solar controller settings (over-discharge return voltage and over discharge voltage setting and battery type)?

I got the app and took some screenshots. I can post if y'all want to see them.

Thanks,

L

[JohnnyGood]

landyacht318 wrote:
I've saturated both light and heavyweight fiberglass with amazing goop for tough repairs on things which need to remain flexible. Also use it as a potting compound. Good stuff to have around.


Isoproply alcohol wiped first on the surfaces to seal/fix, will enhance the bond. So with some mechanical tooth( sharp sanding scratches) but these extra measures are likely not required, but are good habit

Great - thank you Sir.

L

[landyacht318]

I've saturated both light and heavyweight fiberglass with amazing goop for tough repairs on things which need to remain flexible. Also use it as a potting compound. Good stuff to have around.


Isoproply alcohol wiped first on the surfaces to seal/fix, will enhance the bond. So with some mechanical tooth( sharp sanding scratches) but these extra measures are likely not required, but are good habit

[JohnnyGood]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
The cell needs to stay sealed to enable the gas recombninant cycle. This takes patience but GOOP (only Goop) can be used to manufacture a rubber band between the case and the cap.

Micro tools, strong light and reading glasses if necessary.

Experiment first on cardboard

Dollop a spot onto cardboard. Leave a Hershey's Kisses tail on top.

It needs to dry overnight.

Then with a pair of vice grips or needle nose, yank of the Goop tail.

See how elastic it is. Almost unbelievable stretch and snap-back.

You need to make two spider silk threads from the cap to the case.

One on each side of the cap. 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock.

Dab a bit onto the cap. Then dab another bit at the base of the cap.

Then with a straightened paperclip, suck a thread either up or down and join it to the opposite dab. Straight up or straight down. Take your time. The thread has to be as, or thinner, than the paperclip

Do the other side.

Wait 24 hours.

Pull up on the cap. Elastic yes/no?

I've fixed a number of caps this way.

Fiddling with the Goop takes patience. Think hundred dollar bills...

Great - thanks Mex. Will get some goop and proceed with fix.

L

[MEXICOWANDERER]

The cell needs to stay sealed to enable the gas recombninant cycle. This takes patience but GOOP (only Goop) can be used to manufacture a rubber band between the case and the cap.

Micro tools, strong light and reading glasses if necessary.

Experiment first on cardboard

Dollop a spot onto cardboard. Leave a Hershey's Kisses tail on top.

It needs to dry overnight.

Then with a pair of vice grips or needle nose, yank of the Goop tail.

See how elastic it is. Almost unbelievable stretch and snap-back.

You need to make two spider silk threads from the cap to the case.

One on each side of the cap. 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock.

Dab a bit onto the cap. Then dab another bit at the base of the cap.

Then with a straightened paperclip, suck a thread either up or down and join it to the opposite dab. Straight up or straight down. Take your time. The thread has to be as, or thinner, than the paperclip

Do the other side.

Wait 24 hours.

Pull up on the cap. Elastic yes/no?

I've fixed a number of caps this way.

Fiddling with the Goop takes patience. Think hundred dollar bills...

[JohnnyGood]

I have compiled what I think are all of Mex's instructions on the alternator swap (below).

I am printing and heading to the parts store to attempt this. Worse case scenario - I pull the old alternator out and put it back in.

Best case - I have a new alternator and am in bed on time tonight (8:30).

EDIT: I decided not to go for it tonight. I want to wait until I have more time so I can do it without rushing. (See, I'm learning :))

L




You must add a wire from the battery stud to battery positive direct. Six AWG would be ideal. When I say MUST it does not mean perhaps. You WILL fry the factory fusible link if you don't.


Check at the parts counter for a spacer for the alternator SPOOL FOOT
Bolt if needed
You will need to add a piggyback wire from the alternator output stud to the harness + connector near the battery
8 gauge wire will do fine. The alternator stud calls for a 1/4" ring terminal
Even the stock alternator benefits from the wire gauge improvement


Check at the parts counter for the proper length drive belt.

Believe it or not going blind into an alternator project about belt size is one of the big time & hassle hangups.

Technically you can do the alternator and bracket swap in about 2 hours. Leave the new 8 gauge wire until the next "day's off". The fasteners are all metric.



When the new alternator arrives, count the ridges in the serpentine belt grooves. Five or six.

They have to match the rest of the pulleys and the serpentine belt. The pulleys are interchangeable. The nuts are removed and replaced with a pneumatic impact wrench. Use a 15/16" standard socket as a black impact tool socket will not fit in a tight area.

Prepare the power cable.

Use eight gauge wire. It will in essence parallel the existing wire that runs from the alternator battery stud to the most convenient connection point near the battery positive terminal. To clarify, this adds a 2nd wire and two eight gauge wires equals 5 gauge which will pass 140 amps no strain. The eyelet terminal on the alternator stud is 1/4" ring terminal. Use zip ties to bond the new wire adjacent to the existing wire harness. Remember, this wire is always alive so disconnect the negative cable at the battery before starting work.

If the rear alternator housing half is "clocked" to the wrong position, making the voltage regulator plug inaccessible or difficult, you can rotate the housing yourself.

Get a paper clip and straighten a full inch length. It's got to be reasonably straight -- use pliers.

On the rear of the CS144, find the pin hole very near to the rear bearing.

Carefully worm the paper clip into the hole. Try to leverage the tip of the paper clip toward the bearing while gently pushing. There are two brushes to fit through plus the brush holder. A total of about once inch. If the paper clip does not worm it's way the full inch, stop.

If successful, the four housing bolts can be removed. They use a 5/16" wrench and are usually tightened pretty tight. Remove them.

Using a medium flat blade screwdriver approach the crack in the case halves. Leverage the case halves apart. The center laminated steel ring assembly must stay with the rear housing -- opposite the pulley side.

When it appears that it is loose pull the case halves apart. Look inside the rear half. Do you see the white plastic block? Is one or both of the brushes popped out of the brush holder? Use a "L" shaped tool to push the deepest brush down until the paper clip finds it's way through the hole in the brush. Not too deep with the paper clip -- you don't want to block the last brush spring from being pushed down.

When assembled be certain to pull out the paper clip.

[JohnnyGood]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Fully charged electric impact will work OK.

This goes in-between the starter battery and the solenoid, yes?

Thanks,

L

[JohnnyGood]

Hi All,

One question about the battery:

I noticed that the top right vent still pops up just a little bit, which may be due to the pressure from the side piece of plastic that was pushed by the terminal connector.

1. Should I glue this down with a little glue to give it some more motivation not to pop up?

Now, a few questions about the controller (I have read the manual through):

2. What battery type should I set this at - sealed, gel, flooded lead-acid, or lithium?
(sealed is my guess ... that's what it's set on now)

3. It seems I can set the over-discharge return voltage and over discharge voltage setting - any suggestions here?

It's been showing battery at 100% and on "float" mode. I find it hard to believe the battery's at 100% after using it 2x/day for cooking for a week with no recharge (?) ...

Here's the manual: http://www.grapesolar.com/docs/GS-PWM-40BT%20manual.pdf

I don't have the app yet. I posted on another thread about the controller asking where to get it (iphone) - if anyone knows - please let me know (searching the app store yields nothing).

My current to-do list, in the order I'm thinking:

1. Dial in controller
2. Replace alternator
3. Install solenoid
4. Get fuses installed and re-route/shorten 4 gauge run from engine to lifeline
5. Order some new 2 gauge (?) cables to go from lifeline to inverter
6. Get solar rack installed properly to allow me to put panels on the side temporarily for ladder access etc.
7. Take a vacation

Yours,

L