advice to install 30A RV Receptacle in garage to power RV

[uclabruins]

I would like to make my 34 footer RV into a man cave when I'm not using it. 🙂 I need to put in a 30A 125V RV receptacle so I can connect the RV to the house power.

As far as I know, this is what I need:

1. Junction box/cover plate and the 30A rv receptacle (TT-30R?)
2. 10 gauge electric wire
3. 30A breaker? What kind/type?
4. and a 100ft 30A rv extension cable?
Can I use the cheaper house electric cable rated for 30A and just the adpater?

Any help is much appreciated.

I don't want to pay $400 to the electrician.

[uclabruins]

NinerBikes wrote:
If you have to ask what a monument is, you shouldn't be doing the work yourself. There's a reason electrical contractors have to hire certified electricians to work on electrical. You aren't qualified, your continued questions confirm it, you don't even understand the bare minimum basics. Hire a professional.

You're right. That's why I come here to get the information.
I'm also reading a book to understand the theory. I don't think it's rocket science either. There's a reason I was accepted to UCLA. 🙂
Hiring a professional is easy. Anyone can do that. I'm doing this this because it's fun learning how to do it properly.

[joshuajim]

2oldman wrote:

joshuajim wrote:
Just because you hire a licensed contractor doesn't mean that the worker assigned is knowledgable.

Of course all we hear about is the screwups. It's probably more likely a contractor would do the job correctly. But it's also incumbent on the contractee to check his work.

I give up.. what's a Wiggins?

It's solenoid type AC/DC voltage tester pretty much last used in the 90'S. I still have mine that I used to follow up on "professional" electrical workers back then.

[2oldman]

joshuajim wrote:
Just because you hire a licensed contractor doesn't mean that the worker assigned is knowledgable.

Of course all we hear about is the screwups. It's probably more likely a contractor would do the job correctly. But it's also incumbent on the contractee to check his work.

I give up.. what's a Wiggins?

[joshuajim]

gemsworld wrote:
Here's a very good reason why it's a good idea to hire a qualified electrician to do the work.

California officials: Faulty hot tub caused deadly 2015 fire

I'm not disputing that a licensed electrical contractor is a good idea, but I've been a licensed general contractor since 1979 and I can't begin to count the number of times licensed contractors have screwed up on my projects.

Just because you hire a licensed contractor doesn't mean that the worker assigned is knowledgable. Many times the licensed contractor hires the cheapest laborer who owns a Wiggins.

[Community Alumni]

Here's a very good reason why it's a good idea to hire a qualified electrician to do the work.

California officials: Faulty hot tub caused deadly 2015 fire

[Chris_Bryant]

The irony of recommending getting a pro to do it is that I have seen an inordinate number of 30 amp RV outlets installed by licensed electricians that were wired for 240 vac.

[wa8yxm]

If you are installing then that circuit breaker needs to be a single pole type.. Like the 15 amp breakers in your box. What make depends on your breaker box (Same as the rest of them) so only you can answer that. But make sure it is a single breaker, NOT two breakers ganged together (120 volt, not 240 volt)

Someone ask why 4ga wire, Yes, 4ga is a bit heavier *I would likely use 😎 but the heavier the wire the lower the line loss

I would install 4-wire lead (l-1, l-2, Neutral and Ground) tape off one of the L lines.. THat way if you ever want to upgrade to 50 amps, Just untape, repalce breaker with what is now the WRONG type, and change the outlet.

or better yet, Go 50 now and use a dogbone for 30 amps. You can use 30 amnp breakers if you like with 50 amp outlets,, Just label the outlet "30 amps"

[2oldman]

joshuajim wrote:

DownTheAvenue wrote:
With all due respect, if you have to ask the questions you asked, you do not have the necessary skills to safely and correctly install the outlet.

So what you are saying is that professional electricians have their skills and knowledge from birth and never had to ask questions?

No, they learned their skills on the internet.

[joshuajim]

DownTheAvenue wrote:
With all due respect, if you have to ask the questions you asked, you do not have the necessary skills to safely and correctly install the outlet.

So what you are saying is that professional electricians have their skills and knowledge from birth and never had to ask questions?

[ljr]

rr2254545 wrote:
Not sure about the parts but I would put in 50 amp who knows when you might trade in your current rig

I had my 50 amp put in professionally

X2

I had a pro install 30a. A couple years later I upgrade the RV and paid him again for 50a.

[jhilley]

DrewE wrote:

westend wrote:
Discussion of NM wire in conduit at the Mike Holt forum, 5 pages of why it's not allowed--NM wire (romex) in PVC

That discussion has very little if anything to do with NM (Romex) being allowed or not in conduit, and a whole lot about it not being allowed in damp/wet locations, which happens to include conduit that is in a damp or wet location. In other words, the conduit doesn't magically make the non-damp-location wiring suitable for damp locations.

That pretty much sums up those 5 pages. I don't think an inspector would object if in a dry location. A lot harder to pull through conduit, more expensive but I think it would pass inspection.

[DrewE]

westend wrote:
Discussion of NM wire in conduit at the Mike Holt forum, 5 pages of why it's not allowed--NM wire (romex) in PVC

That discussion has very little if anything to do with NM (Romex) being allowed or not in conduit, and a whole lot about it not being allowed in damp/wet locations, which happens to include conduit that is in a damp or wet location. In other words, the conduit doesn't magically make the non-damp-location wiring suitable for damp locations.

[jhilley]

joebedford wrote:

DutchmenSport wrote:
I think I did a bit of over kill, because all the wire was inserted into grey plastic conduit, as everything in my garage was in conduit.

I had an electrician actually do the connection at the fuse box and the receptacle. He told me I did an over kill feeding the wire through the conduit. Conduit was only required for non-insulated single stranded wire. The wires that are insulated with 3 wires don't need the conduit.

I'm no electrician, but as I understand the code, wires within a conduit MUST be single wires. So, I could be wrong, but I think yours doesn't meet code.

Actually nothing in the NEC prohibiting it, however, if any of it is outdoors, you must use UF cable as it is considered a wet location.

[westend]

Discussion of NM wire in conduit at the Mike Holt forum, 5 pages of why it's not allowed--NM wire (romex) in PVC

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Romex

Romex

ROMEX

Not allowed in plastic or EMT. Romex is for open but not accessible areas. EMT for accessible areas (touchable, scrapeable, exposure).

THNN single conductor wires are used in conduit and raceways. Meaning "X" number of "X" AWG SINGLE CONDUCTOR wires. The instant you start pulling Romex through tubing you is violating code.