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Any Solar EXPERTS? charge controller

marininn
Explorer
Explorer
I have had it with the cheap china $30 or $15 solar controllers. They do move voltage, but never seem to work the way they are advertised. And that tiny screw that only works with phone wire is not what I want when I am using heavy gauge wire.
I am looking at the Morningstar units, for about ten times the price though.
Is this a good choice?
I have two 100 watt panels on the roof, and two 6 volt golf batteries in series for 12v.
The solar charges the batteries and I run off the batteries.
I also have power from the tow vehicle when driving, but this is not a heavy gauge wire, and it is hooked to the battery and not through a controller.
I would like everything to be controlled (tv power, solar power, converter power, and outgoing power).
I would like power cut off before I drain a battery dead.
What are the best, and most price conscious options?
Hoping to hear from those who KNOW rather than opinions too. thanks
23 REPLIES 23

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
No expert, but after several failed china cheapies, I love my flush mount Blue Skies
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sky-30-Amp-12-Volt-SC30-PWM-Solar-Panel-Charge-Controller-/112170532398...
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Ed_Gee wrote:
I second what MrWizard said above. Grape Solar is
U.S. based .... I live about 50 miles from them ... and they sell quality products. If the Chinese made product is built to their specs, it is good ... just like Apple products.


I gather the Chinese engineers, trying to meet those US specs, sweat blood doing so, or else they get the chop with no mercy. Lots more where they came from, etc. Their bosses need the business or else they get the chop too. Yipes! No fun for some. ๐Ÿ˜ž
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

red31
Explorer
Explorer
epsolar/epever have a dongle for bluetooth or wifi to android app!
monitor and set parameters
http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/index.php/Product/index2/id/360/am_id/132

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFIiDAw1R3M

allen8106
Explorer
Explorer
Vote Morningstar!
2010 Eagle Super Lite 315RLDS
2018 GMC Sierra 3500HD 6.6L Duramax

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Ed_Gee
Explorer II
Explorer II
I second what MrWizard said above. Grape Solar is
U.S. based .... I live about 50 miles from them ... and they sell quality products. If the Chinese made product is built to their specs, it is good ... just like Apple products.
Ed - on the Central Oregon coast
2018 Winnebago Fuse 23A
Scion xA toad

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Grape Solar is a U.S. Company
Yes the controller is probably Mfg in China, but so is a lot of other electronics
It it made to the specs that grape solar ordered

Yes time will tell on the reliability
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Go with what is purple and hums (i.e. the Grape controller)

Run from the battery not the controller.

marininn wrote:
Thanks, good info. I can see myself adding two more panels, for 400 watts, but probably never go higher.

I want to run the coach off the controller terminals, but I like running directly off the battery so I can use shorter runs and use larger wire.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

There are external diode kits that are connected to the alternator available. This allows by passing the ECU and so much more charging can be done from the alternator to the house bank, compared to just running a charging wire.

time2roll wrote:
marininn wrote:
Also, to complicate it all, I really would like a third input source so I can run the alternator power through a controller too.
No controller is made for this purpose and there is no reason for it.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
marininn wrote:
Also, to complicate it all, I really would like a third input source so I can run the alternator power through a controller too.
No controller is made for this purpose and there is no reason for it.

marininn
Explorer
Explorer
Mrwizard, that looks like the cheap china junk I am trying to get away from. They all work at first, let me know how it holds up after some use. can the bluetooth be turned off? the last thing I want is to have another source of radiation blasting me all night and day.

ktmrfs
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you want a PWM controller, which is a good choice if it's a good unit, there are several good ones available. And for way less than a MPPT controller.

Monringstar makes reasonably priced ones up to about 20A.
Midnite solar brat is a nice 30A PWM controller for around $90 at Northern Arizona Wind and sun.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
You don't need a controller for the alternator
But you need to isolate the engine battery from the house batteries
That is done with a diode based isolator
Or
A heavy duty combiner relay, that comes on with the ignition and off when parked
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

marininn
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks, good info. I can see myself adding two more panels, for 400 watts, but probably never go higher. Currently I have a cheap Coleman electric DC cooler that draws a whopping 4 amps continuously, but plan to get rid of it soon. Looking at ARB (can't get propane fridge through the door to install).
I use wiring off jumper cables to run from batteries to the charge controller, but ironically the controller is not able to take large wires. Do I need heavy gauge wire?
I want to run the coach off the controller terminals, but I like running directly off the battery so I can use shorter runs and use larger wire.
Also, to complicate it all, I really would like a third input source so I can run the alternator power through a controller too.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi MrWizard,

Nice find!
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.