Anybody have experienvce with Bondocker brand chargers

[opnspaces]

I think my OEM IOTA in my Jayco is starting to fail and I'd like to replace it. At any rate it's not a three stage as Jayco in it's infinite wisdom had the IQ4 port omitted from the original charger for them. So in short I decided it's time to upgrade my original charger to a new three or four stage charger.

I see on Bestconverters.com they push the Boondockers brand of charger although they do offer the progressive Dynamics as well. From my years on this board I know that the Progressive Dynamics is recommended often but a search finds only three obscure references to Boondocker.

So I figured I'd ask here about peoples experiences or thoughts on the Boondocker over the progressive Dynamics?

FWIW I run 2 Costco brand 6 volts and was thinking about going with a 45a changer so my Honda eu2000i can power it. I also hope to add about 275w of solar in the future if that makes any difference.

Thanks

[opnspaces]

opnspaces wrote:
Here's a picture of what I have.


Found an old picture on my computer. It's been a few years since I looked but but I believe I have a bunch of room as it's under the refrigerator. I'll look again when i get home.

I called IOTA today, they confirmed that the ILC3045 cannot use the IQ4. They also said it was a single stage charger and pretty much puts out 13.6 volts. So I guess it's back to the Progressive Dynamics. I was thinking about this 60 amp model.
http://www.bestconverter.com/PD-9260C-148-60-Amp-RV-ConverterCharger-_p_618.html

[opnspaces]

Huntindog wrote:

westend wrote:
6V GC2 batteries like 14.8V and higher in their charging cycle. So, a 14.8V charger will be the right choice. I have a PD converter that is 47 yrs old and is still working. I can't think of a better recommendation. Perhaps, the Powermax chargers would reach the same age?

FWIW. My first PD only lasted 2-3 years.
My second one was still working when I sold the TT in 2009. So about 6-7 years.

My wfco was still working as well as it ever did (poorly) when I replaced it around 2011.
My Boondocker has been working fine since then.

IMO... It's a crapshoot.

Thanks for your responses as well Huntindog. Hopefully if I do decide to replace whatever it is lasts longer than a few years.

[opnspaces]

Here's a picture of what I have.


Found an old picture on my computer. It's been a few years since I looked but but I believe I have a bunch of room as it's under the refrigerator. I'll look again when i get home.

[opnspaces]

lawrosa wrote:


Actually I think you may have the load center in the link below. And if so there is no drop in replacement for that .

I think you may need to mount the new charger behind it somehow or get a new load center...


http://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/media/uploads/1/11618_IOTA-Load-Center-Manual.pdf

Yes that is what I have an ILC3045. I'll try to post some pictures.

[Huntindog]

westend wrote:
6V GC2 batteries like 14.8V and higher in their charging cycle. So, a 14.8V charger will be the right choice. I have a PD converter that is 47 yrs old and is still working. I can't think of a better recommendation. Perhaps, the Powermax chargers would reach the same age?

FWIW. My first PD only lasted 2-3 years.
My second one was still working when I sold the TT in 2009. So about 6-7 years.

My wfco was still working as well as it ever did (poorly) when I replaced it around 2011.
My Boondocker has been working fine since then.

IMO... It's a crapshoot.

[westend]

6V GC2 batteries like 14.8V and higher in their charging cycle. So, a 14.8V charger will be the right choice. I have a PD converter that is 47 yrs old and is still working. I can't think of a better recommendation. Perhaps, the Powermax chargers would reach the same age?

[lawrosa]

Ohhh I found this... So yes whatever replacement you buy you will need to mount it close to the load center,


or make a bracket to try to mount it to the back of the load center...


Or buy a new load center.

( That is if you have this unit... I hope im helping and not being a pain...)


https://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/ILC%20DLS%20remote.pdf



So if you have the room to mount on the floor behind the load center I think the 14.8 volt PD is the way to go... You will need to extend wires maybe.

Can others here agree with the 14.8 units are a good choice??????

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD-9245C-148-45-Amp-RV-ConverterCharger_p_610.html#.WmA596inGUk

And i'm not sure what load center you would get if you opted for that route due to size/space issues..

Let us know...

[lawrosa]

Youll need to test some more to determine. Remove the pos/neg leads from battery and see what volts you get from those two leads..

I dont think you have a bulk mode. just 13.6 volts and a float mode as it sits now..


https://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/IQ4_no-DV_hookup.pdf

I found this link to an old ILC iota load center..

For giggles , what is your actual load center model #.

I like to look up and post documents so when others come here searching for answers they will find all the info they need.

Per this maybe you dont have anyway to make it 4 stage.

But also if you let use know what you actually have we can find a unit that will fit in the space..

Actually I think you may have the load center in the link below. And if so there is no drop in replacement for that .

I think you may need to mount the new charger behind it somehow or get a new load center...


http://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/media/uploads/1/11618_IOTA-Load-Center-Manual.pdf

[opnspaces]

lawrosa wrote:

opnspaces wrote:
I think my OEM IOTA in my Jayco is starting to fail and I'd like to replace it. At any rate it's not a three stage as Jayco in it's infinite wisdom had the IQ4 port omitted from the original charger for them. So in short I decided it's time to upgrade my original charger to a new three or four stage charger.

I see on Bestconverters.com they push the Boondockers brand of charger although they do offer the progressive Dynamics as well. From my years on this board I know that the Progressive Dynamics is recommended often but a search finds only three obscure references to Boondocker.

So I figured I'd ask here about peoples experiences or thoughts on the Boondocker over the progressive Dynamics?

FWIW I run 2 Costco brand 6 volts and was thinking about going with a 45a changer so my Honda eu2000i can power it. I also hope to add about 275w of solar in the future if that makes any difference.

Thanks

The iota can be modified as a 4 stage. Just call iota and they will tell you..

But have you searched on it for the plug in jack?

From iota

If you are using an IOTA DLS Battery Charger that does not feature a Dual Voltage Jack, you can still attach an IQ4 Smart Charge Controller to your system...just contact IOTA's Customer Service Department for assistance.

Thanks Lawrosa I'll call IOTA in the morning. I looked in the past for the plug in port and it doesn't exist either front or back. I'll look again for the other screws maybe it's on there. If not I'll call IOTA. Though I remember many years ago on this forum we discussed Jayco having IOTA remove the charge port to save money. But for the price of a phone call (free) I'll find out for sure.



Why do you think the iota is going? Maybe its just your batterys shot/sulfated...

I'm assuming the charger is either bad or just trickle charging. The batteries were 12.76 when I brought the trailer home after being in storage for 2 months. I went to a full hookup site for a weekend and then it sat plugged in in front of the house for the week. When I unplugged the batteries were at 12.5v. I pulled it to the desert and the next morning I started the generator and plugged in the shore power cord. Voltage slowly climbed from 12.3. By slowly climbed I mean as in .01 volt every 45 seconds to a minute, I stood and watched on the multimeter. I walked away and two hours later it was charging at 13.45v. So if the chargers not bad I don't think it's giving me a rapid or bulk charge.

The boon dockers are auto mode select... Id rather have the button. I can push it and make it go to 14.4...

Plus I think I read the boondockers kick out too soon...


https://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm

[Huntindog]

My first PD failed after the warranty was up. I replace it with a larger PD.
My present TT had WFCO. It never switched modes.
13.6 all the time. That was too much in the summer in Phoenix.
I replaced it with the Boondocker.
I like it. It does all the modes as it should.
I will say that it is not as refined as the PDs. The boondocker makes it obvious when it changes modes. It pauses charging briefly as it shifts to the next mode. The lights will dim just for a second. The PDs don't do that.
I have grown accustomed to this quirk. It lets me know that it is working as it should.

FWIW, I have a pair of 6 volts

[Huntindog]

My first PD failed after the warranty was up. I replace it with a larger PD.
My present TT had WFCO. It never switched modes.
13.6 all the time. That was too much in the summer in Phoenix.
I replaced it with the Boondocker.
I like it. It does all the modes as it should.
I will say that it is not as refined as the PDs. The boondocker makes it obvious when it changes modes. It pauses charging briefly as it shifts to the next mode. The lights will dim just for a second. The PDs don't do that.
I have grown accustomed to this quirk. It lets me know that it is working as it should.

[lawrosa]

Also its a matter of what type of upgrade you want to do. That is if your converter is really bad or not..

To get something to fit in the space is the issue. Most of the guys here replace their units with a stand alone and mounted it closer to the batts..

So that's your choice on what you want to do..

[MrWizard]

i have the power max adjustable 70amp model, and i have seen it do 76 amps on start up

i have it set for 14.8v
because NO shore power, generator only

[time2roll]

Since you are charging on generator power consider staying with IOTA.

Powermax Boondocker will cut down to trickle charge 13.6 volts at 70% to 80% charge level. But then maybe that is OK and let the solar finish the rest. When the Honda drops to idle just turn it off.