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Best 7 pole junction box

RVhiker
Explorer
Explorer
What is the strongest, most long lasting, waterproof 7 pole junction box (for attaching trailer umbilical to trailer wiring)- Pollak 52259, Bargman 787535, Conntek 10000-BX or something else?
There's lots of advice and information in forums...
sometimes it is correct.

2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2008 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab; Duramax/Allison; Pullrite 14k Superglide Hitch
6 REPLIES 6

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Mex wrote:
Clever mechanics will go online and purchase ready-to-go 12 volt LED 5mm lights and bezels and drill 7 holes in the lid for the lamps. Presto! A diagnostic tool-in-place. Over the years you will not believe how much time the LED modification will save.

That is one great idea!
I actually have those in stock, the bezels and LED's, and have never used them like that. :h

I installed a steel box on the tongue and I have a 24 terminal strip mounted in there to connect everything. I don't think the OP can go wrong with any of those connection boxes, some of them sold for < $10 and seemed very adequate for the job.

FWIW, I have a roof-top connection box for my solar panel. I used a 2" conduit LB and a grommeted box entry clamp. I sometimes have to remove snow off it if it gets deep. It doesn't leak.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
The stoutest plastic I have yet encountered is colored gray (Grey for BLT13).

They gray is not shiny. Rather fibers (fibres for BLT) can be seen running helter skelter throughout. Tool boxes, cargo boxes, and other plastic items have been made from it and they are damned near indestructible.

As was mentioned above I heartily endorse gobbing dielectric silicone GREASE all over the seven studs inside, over the wire jacketing where cables pass through rubber grommets.

Use ADEL rubber/steel cable clamps 2" from the box to support the cables. Clever mechanics will go online and purchase ready-to-go 12 volt LED 5mm lights and bezels and drill 7 holes in the lid for the lamps. Presto! A diagnostic tool-in-place. Over the years you will not believe how much time the LED modification will save.

(I hope BFL13 is in a good mood today ๐Ÿ™‚ )

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Mine uses a standard 4" metal J-box mounted on the tongue. It has worked without trouble for 10 years now.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
My 2008 model camper is just a standard electrical junction box with lid. The color codes are color for color and use the large yellow twist connectors...

I have seen some boxes have a terminal strip in them to make connections... I'm guessing that is what you are referring to.

Nothing special about mine... Works fine and I have replaced a 7-way cable a few years back that got pulled out somehow and drug its self to death...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I like that the Conntek comes with a variety of rubber grommets for the box entry wires. Otherwise, they all look similar.

A guy could DIY a sealed box with grommeted entry and a terminal strip, easily. But for the low money of the shelved versions, why bother?
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Peg_Leg
Explorer
Explorer
Which ever way you go use plenty of dielectric grease.
2012 Chevy 3500HD Dually 4X4
Crew Cab long bed 6.0 gasser 4.10
2019 Open Range OF337RLS
Yamaha EF3000iSE
retired gadgetman