converter problems

[Kennyg]

Extended camping, connected to 115vac with air conditioner running.

4th day, no AC air and all 12v lights barely illuminating. monitor panel shows batteries fully discharged.

Converter converter is a 10yr old wfco (model wf8845), rated at 45 amp.
RV is a 2007 Fleetwood Jamboree.

Started RV engine and battery monitor showed fully charged batteries. Drove 100 miles home and turned engine off and monitor still shows fully charges batteries.

P.S. Usually, when converter was charging batteries I could hear the converter fan operating. Would stop when battery charge was complete.
Heard no sound during this stay.

In fact, thru the life of this converter, the fan was always in operation even if 12v lights were turned on it would operate for period of time and then stop.

Did call mfg when I first purchased rv, but they told me this was normal operation.

Soooo is it a faulty power converter or something else??

Any suggestions appreciated.

[AllegroD]

Kennyg wrote:
One additional question: Is converter out of charging circuit when engine or the generator is running??? If so, are bad fuses still a possibility?

No and Yes.

The converter only converts 120v AC to 12v DC, therefore charging the batteries or running 12v systems. That means it only works when you have shore power or genny.

The alternator from the engine provides 12(+)v to the batteries. No converter involved. That is why batteries are charged when driving (even if converter is off or dead).

[SidecarFlip]

WFCO's 'guts' are always suspect and the PD upgrade is basically plug and play, well remove and replace some wires.

[wa8yxm]

Fixing soldered in 120 volt glass fuses is far easier than you might think.

IN fact there are 3 common ways to do it.

1: Solder in a new fuse. NOTE that it can be soldered in parallel with the blown fuse so you do nto need to turn the board over

2: Two different types of clips. one is "S" shaped and the other is the nore common snap in hooder. but instead of clips on just one side (with a fiberous board connecting them) there are clips on both sides of the board. Clip one side over the blown fuse. shap new fuse into other side. job done. Two minutes tops.

Just so you know.

But if the converter is a WFCO.. I'd upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics 4600 replacement for the "Guts" of that Wfco. or a 9200 stand alone.

[BFL13]

Kennyg wrote:
Did the check on the converter input and output. Result is that there was no dc voltage at output of converter-zero
Went ahead and purchased the power dynamics 9200.
Problem solved.
Thanks to all who provided input and suggestions.

Several unanswered questions so no idea if problem really solved, but if the new converter doesn't solve the problem you can always come back. 🙂 EG, how did you confirm the WCFO was getting 120v input while it was not making any 12v output? If there was 120 in for sure, were the two reverse polarity fuses at the output ok?

There is a 120v glass fuse inside the converter where the input cord's wires connect to the circuit board, but if that blew, it is not easy to swap out --as was mentioned by Mex. ( Some converters do have that fuse as a snap-in, which is easy to replace)

[wa8yxm]

eHoefler wrote:
He has no Air Conditioning, he has a 110 volt issue. Tripped breaker either on the supply or in the breaker box. Also a bad bad/wrong extension cord is likely.

So that you know I have two A/C's on my 50 amp rig, both replacements for Carrier Air Vs that failed (Design flaw).

The Advent was installed with an Adapt-a-kit and uses the original Carrier controls.. WHICH RUN ON 12 VOLTS and NEED 12 VOLTS TO OPERATE.

Any A/C with a WALL MOUNTED Thermostat likewise wants 12 volts to control it.

THe Coleman has "Local" control and does NOT need 12 volts but if you have a Wall Thermostat you need it or an electronic thermostat as the Carrier has.

Oh I also have a few spare Carrier parts if anyone needs 'em and wishes to come and fetch.. No charge other than come and fetch

Blower motor complet with Fan and Blower
Shrouds (times 2)
I will keep the electronics
(also a short term motor, no guarantee Expect it to fail soon but if you need it and are near me it may last long enough to get a new one in and I do give the ultimate money back guarantee.. (Your Free is hearby refunded).

[time2roll]

Your battery will be far happier with the 9200 🙂

[Kennyg]

Did the check on the converter input and output. Result is that there was no dc voltage at output of converter-zero
Went ahead and purchased the power dynamics 9200.
Problem solved.
Thanks to all who provided input and suggestions.

[BFL13]

time2roll wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
On sale for $41.00 less here--don't know about shipping though.:

http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm4-45-converter

Nice find. I like these people too.

They have a 120 amp version calling your name 😉

PM3 vs PM4 is the 4 has the short 14.4 boost ever 24 hours right?

I keep looking for the PM4 MBA but only see PM3s.

This is the PM4 MBA for a WFCO. I suppose it would work in other brand power centre's too with some "adjustments"

http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondocker-Main-Board-Assembly-for-WFCO-8955_c_196.html

Randy has renamed his converters, but AFAIK they are still supplied by PM to Randy's specs.

The PM4 started as the then new Randy version he was selling a while back where the 4 was the extra "equalization" stage the PM3s didn't have. Randy also made his 14.6 instead of 14.4. These PM4s might be 14.4 directly from PM stock. BandRV has a chat site to ask on.

I don't have the latest news on all this, but PM has been trying out the new LK models, which have both 3-stage and ADJ using a switch and a pot --two holes in the side of the chassis to operate it. So far BoatandRV seems to be the one selling those but on Amazon, not their own site! I don't know where the LKs stand at this point in the trial period PM is running with those.

[time2roll]

BFL13 wrote:
On sale for $41.00 less here--don't know about shipping though.:

http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm4-45-converter

Nice find. I like these people too.

They have a 120 amp version calling your name 😉

PM3 vs PM4 is the 4 has the short 14.4 boost ever 24 hours right?

I keep looking for the PM4 MBA but only see PM3s.

[SidecarFlip]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
WFCO are NOT the best converter.....marginal is more like it

1st off...check/verify that when you have 120V AC power the converter is getting AC input. (tripped Circuit breaker/loose wiring etc)

IF AC input then disconnect battery cables and measure DC output at converter DC POS and NEG terminals---on face on converter by the rack of fuses.
With AC power input the DC power out should be 13.2V DC MINIMUM. Any lower converter failing

Lots of posts but I'd say if you got 10 years from a WFCO converter, you did good. Time to upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics.

Bottom line is WFCO is cheap so that is what OEM's use

[BFL13]

time2roll wrote:
Do your batteries a favor and run down to walmart and buy a battery charger with 10+ amps rating. Go tonight. Even 5 amps would get you back going.

Get an extension cord too if needed. Put it right on the house battery and let it rip. No need to disconnect anything.

Assuming it is a deck mount converter a 45 amp Boondocker would be a direct replacement. I don't recommend WFCO.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondocker-BD-1245C-45-Amp-4-Stage

On sale for $41.00 less here--don't know about shipping though.:

http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm4-45-converter

[time2roll]

Kennyg wrote:
One additional question: Is converter out of charging circuit when engine or the generator is running??? If so, are bad fuses still a possibility?

No.

Converter is always connected to the 12v house battery and systems. Only exception would be if you have a 'storage' switch that disconnects the house battery.

Converter should produce about 13.6 volts DC whenever 120vac is available. All systems and house battery should be at 13.6 volts when plugged in. OK if the battery is low, voltage may sag a bit until charged.

[BFL13]

Yes you can use the gen to supply the 120 for the converter--but the gen needs house batteries to start it AFAIK and there is a question about those batteries.

On the fourth day you lost pedestal power so no 120v to anything including the converter so no 12v output from converter. Started gen and now have 120v to run the air but still no 12v so converter did not come back on. Started engine and now you have 12v from alternator.

Whatever knocked out the pedestal also knocked out the converter--it has protection fuses, usually a pair of 30a. Replace both and see if that fixes it. it could also be the input breaker as suggested by others. It could also be that the converter is plugged into a receptacle on a string that has its GFCI popped.

However the batteries are very weak as seen by dim lights when the converter was off. (I ASSume the "full battery" indicator at home is because plugged in.)

The "monitor" will show full batteries even if they are dead as long as it "sees" 12.7 or more volts, which the converter supplies at 13.2v or so, 13.6 being usual.

Your real problem is why are the batteries so weak even though you plug in at home and the converter should be maintaining them.

[wa8yxm]

I agree that upgrading the WFCO electronics (no need to replace the full breaker/fuse panel just the electronics) to Progressive Dynamics 4600 is a good plan (9200 if the electronics are remote from the breaker box)

But first check the circuit breaker feeding the thing and make sure there is voltage between the screw on the top of the breaker and the WHITE wire bus in the breaker box. THey don't work if they can't eat 120vac.