Dometic fridge issue...need help please.

[dreamco]

My refer seems to work perfectly on propane but doesn't work at all on electricity...neither one the generator or while plugged in. I have 120v at the refer's receptacle so I know it's getting power.
Any suggestions?

Dometic
Model# RM2852
Product# 921 14 60-04

[dreamco]

Well, the good news is I found the problem...the bad news is I need a new board at the very least. WOW! It looks like I need a Dinosaur Micro P-711 for replacement...but I can't help but wonder what would have caused this failure? I hate to put a new board in just to watch it blow up right away if there's an underlying problem. Is this pretty common to fail like this?

[dreamco]

Thanks for all the help everyone..This site is awesome and you people are awesome!

"If it switches to electric but the element doesn't get hot, odds are the element is bad."
It does seem to switch to electric mode...just won't cool.

Chris - Thanks for the link to the recall..and yep, my serial number qualifies. I wonder if I should start with getting the recall issue addressed...huh?

[Chris_Bryant]

If it switches to electric but the element doesn't get hot, odds are the element is bad.

But... be aware that your model is most likely under recall, which has not been performed. you can put your serial number in here, and read more about it at http://www.dometic.com/USA/Support/Dometic-Recall-Information/.

[Gjac]

There are several ways that you can check the element. To easiest way is to disconnect the two leads and take an ohm reading. It will vary by refer and model, but a direct short or open is bad. The best way is to disconnect the leads and plug them directly into a 120 v source bypassing the board and stay plugged in for 24 hrs. If no heat is generated the element is bad if it gets hot and the refer cools your refer and element is good and there is a problem elsewhere probably the board, fuses, or connections. Let us know how you make out.

[wrgrs50s]

Yes, the black box can be a little tricky to remove. There is a tab on each side that you may need to insert a small flathead screwdriver in to get it to release.

You can then trace the power cord and heater rod cord back to the bottom of the board to check the connectors.

[CT_WANDERER]

Yes, that is the board you have to check out

[dreamco]

wrgrs50s wrote:
I had this problem and traced down where the 120volt power cord plugged in to the circuit board and found that the spade connection was not pushed all the way on to the circuit board. I pressed on the spade and heard and felt a little snap and then I had power to the heater rod and then it worked on electric.

If you find that the connections on the circuit board are tight and clean, the fuses are good, but no power is going out to the heater rod when the selector inside is on auto and plugged in to shore power, it may be likely that the circuit board itself may be bad.

If voltage is going out to the heater rod but it is not heating, you will need to unplug the heater rod at the circuit board and use a volt ohm meter set to ohms and check the heater for a short. It should read around 41 ohms. If not the heater rod will need to be replaced.

If the circuit board is suspect, take it out and to a repair facility that has a circuit board tester to determine if it is in fact bad before purchasing a new board. Dinosaur is the board of choice for a replacement.

Thanks for the very detailed post.
Is the circuit board you're referring to concealed in the black box located in the lower left of the photo below?

Thanks again for the help!

[Gene_Ginny]

dreamco wrote:
I'm thinking this is it?
......

Your thinking is correct. 🙂

[wrgrs50s]

I had this problem and traced down where the 120volt power cord plugged in to the circuit board and found that the spade connection was not pushed all the way on to the circuit board. I pressed on the spade and heard and felt a little snap and then I had power to the heater rod and then it worked on electric.

If you find that the connections on the circuit board are tight and clean, the fuses are good, but no power is going out to the heater rod when the selector inside is on auto and plugged in to shore power, it may be likely that the circuit board itself may be bad.

If voltage is going out to the heater rod but it is not heating, you will need to unplug the heater rod at the circuit board and use a volt ohm meter set to ohms and check the heater for a short. It should read around 41 ohms. If not the heater rod will need to be replaced.

If the circuit board is suspect, take it out and to a repair facility that has a circuit board tester to determine if it is in fact bad before purchasing a new board. Dinosaur is the board of choice for a replacement.

[dreamco]

I'm thinking this is it?

[Ranger_Smith]

Fisherman wrote:
The element is located inside the chimney, follow where the 120 v AC wire goes in.

X2

[Fisherman]

The element is located inside the chimney, follow where the 120 v AC wire goes in.

[dreamco]

Ranger Smith wrote:
The 120 volt element or the fuse on the board is bad.

I checked the fuse and it was good but I replaced it anyway. Where is the 120v element and what does it look like?
Thanks a bunch Ranger!

[Ranger_Smith]

The 120 volt element or the fuse on the board is bad.