Electrical help!!

[KevinGwin]

I rented my 2018 Dutchmen Aspen Trail 2710BH on RVShare. The renter accidentally put 240v to it and it messed a bunch of stuff up. I replaced 3 of the main converters circuit breakers, and I think I got everything working. I may be screwed as to RVShares insurance coverage doesn’t cover a lot of electrical stuff, which is total BS. Right now, the main thing that I can’t get to work is the fridge when plugged into Electric, but it works on propane. I checked the fuse for AC power on the circuit board and it seems to be fine. Also, it won’t let me run anything when plugged in unless the battery is connected, which I thought it weird. Taking it to a dealer next week, but might be totally screwed on this insurance deal. Any idea on the fridge and what all to check? I don’t want things to go bad in the future that are working now, but it seems like the circuit breakers may have saved mostly everything.

[map40]

Chris Bryant wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Interesting that the fridge apparently works on propane but not in 120 volt. So 1/2 the control board fried?

That’s pretty common- the part of the circuit that senses voltage burns out.

Yeap, agree with Chris. I had a fridge that did that and used it for 2 years on propane, not one problem with it.

[Chris_Bryant]

pianotuna wrote:
Interesting that the fridge apparently works on propane but not in 120 volt. So 1/2 the control board fried?

That’s pretty common- the part of the circuit that senses voltage burns out.

[pianotuna]

Interesting that the fridge apparently works on propane but not in 120 volt. So 1/2 the control board fried?

[Chris_Bryant]

DrewE wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:
Circuit board on refrigerator is toast. Heating element will be fine. Converter is toast. Microwave is probably toast.

Some converters wouldn't be toast; PD at least claims that theirs can withstand 240V without damage (but won't operate at that input voltage).

That said, most factories don't put superior converters in their RVs, so it's a good bet that it's toast or at least needs some work.

Yeah, but the op said nothing worked while plugged in unless he put a battery in, which makes me think the converter is bad.

[map40]

DrewE wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:
Circuit board on refrigerator is toast. Heating element will be fine. Converter is toast. Microwave is probably toast.

Some converters wouldn't be toast; PD at least claims that theirs can withstand 240V without damage (but won't operate at that input voltage).

That said, most factories don't put superior converters in their RVs, so it's a good bet that it's toast or at least needs some work.

The ones that have protection require you to open and replace several components. If the OP is renting out the RV, DIY in a converter is not a option unless he is a licensed electrician, which he is not.
It is one of the bad consecuences of renting your RV.

[DrewE]

Chris Bryant wrote:
Circuit board on refrigerator is toast. Heating element will be fine. Converter is toast. Microwave is probably toast.

Some converters wouldn't be toast; PD at least claims that theirs can withstand 240V without damage (but won't operate at that input voltage).

That said, most factories don't put superior converters in their RVs, so it's a good bet that it's toast or at least needs some work.

[Chris_Bryant]

Circuit board on refrigerator is toast. Heating element will be fine. Converter is toast. Microwave is probably toast.

[Scottiemom]

Since you are in Ohio, why not take it to Shipshewana, Indiana, to National RV Refrigeration, aka Leon Hershberger. He is a young Amish man who knows all things about RV refrigeration. He won't cost an arm and a leg and is VERY good at his job. He will troubleshoot and fix it.

Here is his website:

National RV Refrigeration

You will have to call and leave a message and he will call you back. It's the Amish way.

Dale

[pianotuna]

They may look fine. Test for continuity or with an ohm meter.

KevinGwin wrote:
Iamichabod, the 5 amp DC fuse and 8amp AC fuse on the fridge control board looked fine

[wnjj]

KevinGwin wrote:
Iamichabod, the 5 amp DC fuse and 8amp AC fuse on the fridge control board looked fine

The more expensive heating element probably sacrificed itself to save the fuse. 🙂

You can test the element for continuity with an ohm meter or just connect it directly to 120V and see if the fridge cools. If it does, the fuse and/or relay (or a wire connection) is bad. Replacing the relay is easy enough or at least it was on my Norcold (http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29727778/gotomsg/29741786.cfm#29741786).

It’s possible the over voltage fried the 120V detector circuit if it won’t run on “auto”. If the fridge can be forced to AC mode does it still not work?

[KevinGwin]

Iamichabod, the 5 amp DC fuse and 8amp AC fuse on the fridge control board looked fine

[IAMICHABOD]

wa8yxm wrote:
On a Dometic (Norcold too but I can't tell you where it is) there is a black box on the left bottom outside.. More fuses. also a possibly fried circuit board.

I would look there next,there is a 5amp fuse to protect the 120 circuit.

[KevinGwin]

Bob, I have not tried the TV, the microwave works now that the circuit breaker was changed

[bob213]

Have you checked the tv and microwave. They usually get zapped as well.