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Fix minor slide floor rot with 12 inch Headlok screws

Albertzerok
Explorer
Explorer
Our slide is suffering from a bit of rot on the floor, the screws holding the sides to the 3/4 plywood floor are not holding and a 3 inch screw will not grip, but when I look at the rot line, it's about 4 to 6 inches back. I found these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y1EBK6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

12 inch long screws. I'm thinking of using those along with minwood's wood hardener and some epoxy wood putty if needed. The black cloth under the slide is ripped too, so wondering if there are plastic slide bars I can put underneath for the slide to slide on.

Those screws are $200 for 250 (and you can't buy them in less quantity unless I can find a suppler in Charlotte NC that sells them loose.)

I've also thought of removing the last 8 inches of wood and putting new in wrapped in black cloth, then put a piece of luan over the entire floor in the slide and using the 12 inch screws to bring it all together.

Thoughts?
10 REPLIES 10

doughere
Explorer
Explorer
Try this place:

Piedmont Fastener Co
812 S Main St
Troutman, NC 28166

I've found many specialty screws for my RV there.

Regards,
Doug

westend
Explorer
Explorer
From the pictures, iy looks like you may have some wall sheathing damage going on, also. I'd suggest to cut the fabric back to that point where the luan board stops and remove the luan board. That will probably allow you to look up into that area and see what is good and not so good. When you replace everything, use an undercoating spray to patch up any areas without fabric.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I noticed damp floor wood at one end of the slide and some rot starting. Turned out to be from a tear in the slide roof at the edge, so water was coming down the inside of that end wall and rotting the floor. I am pretending nothing is wrong with the inside of the wall once it dries out. (I don't know how to remove the end window and put it back, which I would have to do to look behind the inside wall.) ๐Ÿ˜ž I fixed the roof edge leak. The floor isn't that far gone I have to do anything if it stays dry now.

Total PITA, but as stated first fix the leak. Yes, cut away that soft rotten wood and put a good piece in to hold the bottom of the wall on (if the wall isn't also wet--water "wicks" up too) Just how to hold the new piece on the end of the floor so it still goes in and out is up to you! ๐Ÿ™‚ Maybe use thin steel plates above and below the joint?
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Albertzerok
Explorer
Explorer
I hit good wood with a drill bit about 6 inches from the end.

FYI - The leak has already been fixed, but I'm thinking of using eternabond on the top corners of the slide.

Albertzerok
Explorer
Explorer

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Albertzerok wrote:
So, you would all recommend removing the last 8 inches of floor and replacing it?
It's difficult for me to visualize where the wood has deteriorated but I know that most folks that have a rotten slide floor, replace the whole floor. I can't say that it's necessary for you because I don't know the condition of the wood.
Any chance of posting some pictures of the problem area?
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Albertzerok
Explorer
Explorer
So, you would all recommend removing the last 8 inches of floor and replacing it?

westend
Explorer
Explorer
:Longer fasteners to hold rotting would is typically a bad idea. The wood will continue to deteriorate and, eventually, your fasteners will be loose. I think you know what needs to be done but are not too keen on the work involved to fix the problem, right?
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

sch911
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
You need to stop the water from coming in.


And replace the rotted wood. Longer screws are not the answer...
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ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
You need to stop the water from coming in.