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โMar-07-2020 04:53 PM
theoldwizard1 wrote:mchero wrote:
Cole Hersee link looks interesting. Continuous duty indeed but how many amps? I'm looking for 300 amp plus.
Why so much ?
If its purpose is to isolate the house batteries from the starting batteries during cranking and when the engine is OFF, it will only be ON when the engine is running and you are trying to charge the house batteries from the engine. I am certain that your engine alternator can not generate anything near 300A !
Personally, I would rather have a DC-DC charger. It will not allow reverse flow of current AND it will properly apply a multi-step charge on your house batteries.
โMar-06-2020 04:41 PM
โMar-06-2020 02:02 PM
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I was asked to comment on this. One condition was not mentioned. And it is a condition that will burn any solenoid. If the test is not verified then solenoid burnout is assured -- even 300 amp modeks.
The solenoid must not remain engaged as the engine is cranked. Check that the small ignition post goes dead as a doornail as the engine starter motor is cranked.
A five dollar fender mounted plastic body solenoid is more resistant to burnout at 700 amps rating than a hundred dollar 300 amp continuous duty solenoid. Why? Because when the engine is being cranked that so I avoid no longer utilizes 12 volts. Try 10 volts. Weak pull in, chatter and contact arcing.
Putting in a flywheel diode reverse orientation will help correctly connected solenoids live longer. More info about flywheel diodes on the web.
Verify correct connection to ignition B Instead of Ignition A
I am minus a laptop so no more posts
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