Honda EU2000i carburetor rebuild kit

[dryfly]

I'm going to be making a trip to Yellowstone in the near future so I will need to be replacing the main jet in my EU2000i to one that will function in high altitude.

This will provide me with the opportunity to do a carb overhaul, even though my generator has less than 100 hours on it. Like most small engines, I assumed I could find a rebuild kit for the carb but so far no luck. Parts are available, but no complete kit.

Assuming all existing parts are in good shape, what needs to be replaced? One video I watched stated the large O ring type gasket between the float chamber and carb body, as well as the float valve seat need to be replaced anytime an overhaul is done. Is this usually true?

I'm seeing complete 3rd party carburetors on Amazon for $35 so maybe rebuild kits are obsolete. One of these with the high altitude jet, and the original carb with the standard jet would sure make altitude changing a lot easier.

[Martyn]

JimK-NY wrote:
I have a 2000i that is setup for sea level. I have been at over 10,000' elevation and the generator will still power the A/C unit.

Ditto. I have two 2000I. I lived for 30 years in the Denver area at a little over 5,600 ft.

Both generators have standard jets.

When I bought them I took them to the dealer to get re-jetted and he told me not to bother.

I ran them at elevations up to 12,000 ft and never had a problem.

Since retiring to Florida I let them stand too long with old gas in and the carbs needed doing. Cleaned them both out in a day and got rid of gunk and water. Both run like new again. Not bad for 16 year old units.

[2oldman]

I'm not sure a lot of people know about the carburetor drain tap...including the person below.

[JimK-NY]

I have a 2000i that is setup for sea level. I have been at over 10,000' elevation and the generator will still power the A/C unit.

[dryfly]

Old Wizard:

Thanks, good info.

On further evaluation, and based on how well the generator is running, I think I'm going to be satisfied just cleaning the main nozzle (emulsion tube) part # 12 and installing the high altitude main jet. At this time I don't think further break down is needed, but I will store your info for when it is needed.

I have a set of hollow ground screwdriver bits so jet removal should not be an issue depending how far down in the tube the jet is. Good to know the large O ring is not an issue. I will treat it with caution. The generator is new enough that I don't think the 2 flange gaskets on the carb body will be an issue either.

I'm still considering getting one of the $35 generic carburetors and putting the high altitude jet in it. It looks easier and quicker to swap carbs when needed than to have to disassemble and change jets.

[Ron3rd]

BTW oldwizard posted some very good info

[Ron3rd]

I've never overhauled the carb in my 16 year old EU2000 so I'm not sure why you would want to. There really is no rebuild "kit" just a couple of rings. There's a large o ring for the float bowl that should be replaced but that's about it. There's nothing wrong with your carb so why consider replacing it with a cheap aftermarket one? A genuine Honda carb is over $150 but why spend the money?

In summary there's nothing to rebuild, only a bit of cleaning to do if the carb is really gummed up. Tons of YouTube videos will show you how.

If you're just replacing the main jet I do that, clean what you can, and move on

[theoldwizard1]

dryfly wrote:
Assuming all existing parts are in good shape, what needs to be replaced? One video I watched stated the large O ring type gasket between the float chamber and carb body, as well as the float valve seat need to be replaced anytime an overhaul is done. Is this usually true?

Actually that is the gasket that usually survives because it is made out of neoprene ! Do not clean that gasket in any thing except warm water and soap. Many carburetor cleaners will cause it to swell and then you can not re-assemble. If you find that it HAS swollen. wash in warm water and dish soap and let thoroughly dry.

If you are going to replace the main jet (31) (up inside the tube that holds the emulsion tube - 12) you need a special screwdriver. Briggs makes them or buy a "gunsmith" hollow ground screwdriver. Not expensive. (Typical straight blade screwdrivers "flare" outwards and can not reach inside the tube where the main jet lives.)

There are a couple of "hidden" passages that you might want to TRY and get to. #5 is idle/pilot air bleed adjustment. It is covered by a cap. By careful if you try to remove the cap as the screw may BREAK https://youtu.be/kMw91fiIXNc?t=242 ! Also #32 is the idle/pilot jet. It is plastic and goes straight down into the carburetor and held there by the throttle stop screw (11).

[Admin]

Gdetrailer - No argument from here.

🙂

[Itinerant1]

Heres a thread with pics for the carb.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29903263.cfm

[dieseltruckdriv]

I live at almost exactly 5500 feet, and I wouldn't change the jet. Worst case is you use a touch more gas.

I typically use my generators at 1500 to 3300 feet elevation. I have used one of my Hondas at over 7000 feet with no noticeable difference in running.

If you really think you want to do it, the orings do not need to be replaced, just be careful with your disassembly.

[time2roll]

I would swap on that $35 carb with the jet ready to go. Carbs are easy until they aren't. Then they are a PITN.

[Gdetrailer]

Admin wrote:
Even if he replaces the carb, he still has to put in new jet(s) for the altitude, still may have to change out the seals.
Unknown how long the new one has been sitting on the shelf.

Admin

New unused carbs sitting on a shelf should not have gaskets and seals going bad.

Small engine carbs are dirt simple, unless you rip or tear the gasket, it will be reusable. There is only one "paper" gasket in the gasket kit that might cause an issue. However, in a pinch a new one can easily be constructed from lightweight cardboard from even a cereal box.

Even the "O" ring for the carb bowl could be replaced by a cardboard gasket made from a cereal box in a pinch..

This isn't like your needing to replace a head gasket, you just needing a way to create enough seal under a light vacuum so you get the correct air/fuel mix.. and for the bowl, just enough seal to not leak fuel..

Used to reuse Holley fuel bowl gaskets many, many times when changing jets on the metering plate and not to mention the little "O" rings that went on the fuel tube between front bowl and rear bowl on four barrel carbs..

As long as it isn't ripped or mutilated it can often be reused.

I just don't think OP is going to really want to swap carbs in this case, it most likely will be easier to drop the fuel bowl and change the jet when needed.

[Admin]

Even if he replaces the carb, he still has to put in new jet(s) for the altitude, still may have to change out the seals.
Unknown how long the new one has been sitting on the shelf.

Admin

[Gdetrailer]

Generally, as long as you do not damage or tear the gaskets, you can usually reuse them multiple times before needing to replace.

Looks like gasket kit is running $13 and new generic replacement carbs are starting at $37.

HERE

Might be a real toss on that one to outfit one carb with high altitude jet.. That carb looks like it is a bit of a challenge to replace with the stepper motor and hoses.. Not a simple change out..

The jet should be accessible just by dropping the fuel bowl which depending on how much room you have may be easier to just swap jets than the entire carb..

But if you really want to change carbs, I have had good success with lower priced aftermarket carbs on B&S and Tecumseh engines..