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Install 50A Outlet at Electric Meter

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
My electric meter is stand alone on a post close to my driveway where my 5th wheel is parked, near the left rear RV corner in my sig picture. I originally thought about having a 20a outlet installed there for my 30a RV for easy of plugging in and maybe running the AC on muggy days. I have no AC in the house and currently run the heaviest extension cord I could find to do this, but it is in harm's way where it can be run over by delivery trucks or lawn mowers. It occurred to me that I could probably have a 50a outlet installed at the meter instead for the incremental cost of parts and labor. Then I would use a 50a to 30a adapter for my current RV and have a 50a outlet for a future RV.
How big a deal is it to install an outlet at an electric meter? Obviously, the electric company will be involved to shut off power and reconnect, and I would provide the electrician with a 50a RV wiring diagram.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar
35 REPLIES 35

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Start with the utility first. They are the one that reads the meter notes an installation not to their standard and chops power and red tags the meter. The consult a qualified, electrician who has a business license.

Temporary Service Drops have strict rules that are interpreted by your utility company not an electrician. Wouldn't it be just dandy to get the job all finished and paid for then have the utility show up and declare "Not Permitted!" Meter Reg Tags and disconnects will ruin a person's day.

Remember, a licensed electrician must operate by the rules. That includes sending a copy of the report to the utility and if applicable to the city or county code enforcement entity.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
The electric utility security tag is visible hanging down in front of the middle conduit.

Thanks, Drew. I do see the tag now that you've pointed it out.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
westend wrote:
SkiSmuggs wrote:
Rollnhome wrote:
This is a lot different than the "pedestal" I had envisioned. This looks like a sealed meter box. Also looks like you may have a transformer there also. From my west coast experience you may need to get the power company involved. I can not recall a meter not having a power shut off switch or breaker box on the service meter post or pedestal.

This was done in the early 70s and this is Vermont (I'm a Vermonter, I do what I wanter). ๐Ÿ™‚
Thanks for all the input and consulting with an electrician is my plan.
I would definitely call an electrician and not the utility.
What it looks like you have there is the original temporary meter location, since upgraded to offer support for the meter. There is no lockout tag on the meter socket visible. That makes me think that final location inspection was not concluded.


The electric utility security tag is visible hanging down in front of the middle conduit.

Vermont is fairly lenient about things like inspections and licensing requirements. One needn't be licensed as an electrician to legally perform work on one's own house, and (if I'm reading the statue properly) no final or other inspections are required at the state level for ordinary houses, but only for public buildings ("complex structures"). If anything, the requirements were looser when the house was built in the '70s.

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
I know this was suggested, but if I were to spend the time and permits to get a 50 ampere pedestal, I'd go for multiple receptacles, each on its own breaker. The 50 amp receptacle goes on both legs, of course. However, on one of the 50 amp legs, I'd put a pair of 20A outlets, the other leg, one 30A outlet and a 15 amp outlet. This gives you more flexibility.

Rollnhome
Explorer
Explorer
Oops double post
2008 Discovery 40X towing a Jeep Grand Cherokee

Rollnhome
Explorer
Explorer
Good luck. I see a knock out on the right hand side of the meter box. They may allow you have a small sub panel or breaker box come from there. Then to a plug. I would put a 50 amp RV and a 15/20 amp duplex also. Not a lot of room, may need to modify meter mounting post or put new equipment on plywood on backside of meter stand. You'll figure it out. More of getting approvals than actual work.
2008 Discovery 40X towing a Jeep Grand Cherokee

westend
Explorer
Explorer
SkiSmuggs wrote:
Rollnhome wrote:
This is a lot different than the "pedestal" I had envisioned. This looks like a sealed meter box. Also looks like you may have a transformer there also. From my west coast experience you may need to get the power company involved. I can not recall a meter not having a power shut off switch or breaker box on the service meter post or pedestal.

This was done in the early 70s and this is Vermont (I'm a Vermonter, I do what I wanter). ๐Ÿ™‚
Thanks for all the input and consulting with an electrician is my plan.
I would definitely call an electrician and not the utility.
What it looks like you have there is the original temporary meter location, since upgraded to offer support for the meter. There is no lockout tag on the meter socket visible. That makes me think that final location inspection was not concluded.

FWIW, all utilities in my area require the underground service meter to be attached to the dwelling. That may not be true for your area, just as the whole house service disconnect and breakers are not located there (not required for your installation and area). In my area, the utility would require that the meter be moved to the dwelling and new service wire buried to that location. You don't want to go there, especially if it's a long run.

Any other usable AC service should require treatment as a subpanel and the requirements for that would have to be met. A local electrician familiar with residential installation should be able to help you getting all of the RV stuff straightened out as cheaply as possible.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
Rollnhome wrote:
This is a lot different than the "pedestal" I had envisioned. This looks like a sealed meter box. Also looks like you may have a transformer there also. From my west coast experience you may need to get the power company involved. I can not recall a meter not having a power shut off switch or breaker box on the service meter post or pedestal.

This was done in the early 70s and this is Vermont (I'm a Vermonter, I do what I wanter). ๐Ÿ™‚
Thanks for all the input and consulting with an electrician is my plan.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
Rollnhome wrote:
This is a lot different than the "pedestal" I had envisioned. This looks like a sealed meter box. Also looks like you may have a transformer there also. From my west coast experience you may need to get the power company involved. I can not recall a meter not having a power shut off switch or breaker box on the service meter post or pedestal.

Good eye! That is indeed a transformer in the background. Our power feed is underground from an adjacent neighborhood. Better yet, I can't see my neighbors.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

Rollnhome
Explorer
Explorer
This is a lot different than the "pedestal" I had envisioned. This looks like a sealed meter box. Also looks like you may have a transformer there also. From my west coast experience you may need to get the power company involved. I can not recall a meter not having a power shut off switch or breaker box on the service meter post or pedestal.
2008 Discovery 40X towing a Jeep Grand Cherokee

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
If you add a panel breaker or fused disconnect you then need to have 4 wires in each conduit to where ever they are feeding.
Assuming it is 120/240 volt.
2 hots
1 neutral
1 ground
Even through the neutral and ground are one and the same at the meter and first disconnect, they are separated after there.
If you add just one breaker and receiptal then the rest can remain as they are. Most likely 3 wires.

Dusty

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
DrewE wrote:
It may not necessarily have to be replaced with one with breakers. You may well be able to add a separate box with a main breaker and the receptacles and breakers for the RV outlet, tying into the meter's load lugs. (You may need to install a separate grounding rod for this panel.)

I don't think I've ever seen a meter in Vermont with breakers attached to it. Of course, I have not seen anywhere near every meter in Vermont; but local practice certainly seems to favor having just the meter in the meter box and the main disconnect(s) separate.

I think the NEC requires that all the power to a building be disconnected by no more than three shutoffs within some distance (several feet) of each other. My guess is that a box out here by the meter would not be considered power to the building, but I'm no expert on such details. If for some reason it is, you're pretty much forced into running a wire of some sort out from the house--be it an extension cord or another buried cable or whatever.

Asking an electrician would be my best suggestion.

Thanks, I figured on bringing an electrician in on it, but was just trying to get some idea of what's involved.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
It may not necessarily have to be replaced with one with breakers. You may well be able to add a separate box with a main breaker and the receptacles and breakers for the RV outlet, tying into the meter's load lugs. (You may need to install a separate grounding rod for this panel.)

I don't think I've ever seen a meter in Vermont with breakers attached to it. Of course, I have not seen anywhere near every meter in Vermont; but local practice certainly seems to favor having just the meter in the meter box and the main disconnect(s) separate.

I think the NEC requires that all the power to a building be disconnected by no more than three shutoffs within some distance (several feet) of each other. My guess is that a box out here by the meter would not be considered power to the building, but I'm no expert on such details. If for some reason it is, you're pretty much forced into running a wire of some sort out from the house--be it an extension cord or another buried cable or whatever.

Asking an electrician would be my best suggestion.

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
I want outlets here so I don't have to run a 75' extension cord across the lawn and driveway to power the RV. By looking at a previous posting, it looks like the whole unit needs to be replaced with one with breakers.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar