Installing inverter w/charger and transfer switch

[letup27]

Im installing a AIMS 2500 Watt Low Frequency Pure Sine Inverter Charger 12 VDC to 120 VAC in my Rockwood 2506. Im hard wiring to the panel box. The positive wire on the battery terminal goes to the power jack and I think the electric brake before running to the panel box. I hook up the battery to the inverter posts, the shore power to the ac in and the ac out to the 30 amp breaker in the panel box. How will power get back to my jack?

[time2roll]

Yes, looks correct. Fairly simple install.

[letup27]

This is the way I though it would be installed before I started asking question. So is this correct?

[time2roll]

Looks good to go

[letup27]

[time2roll]

Open the picture, right click, copy image address.
Use advance post option, Image link icon, paste image address, enter "640" as max width, select "finish"

[letup27]

try this
https://imgur.com/KYbnrST

[time2roll]

http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=1

[letup27]

How can I attach my diagram to my reply? Can I email it?

[wa8yxm]

time2roll wrote:
Are you doing a sub panel?

I thought you were doing whole house like this:

VERY GOOD Diagram.. The only differences between how My RV is wired and the diagram are primary cosmetic. But I will list them

The shore/generator transfer switch is automatic (the photo suggests a manual) the isolator is a different type... None of this matters to the original poster.

Oh and I kept my original Converter on line since I like it better than the programmable inverter/charger.. It is hooked to the MAIN box so it does not make a circle off the inverter.

I was going to remind the OP to set it up with a sub panel You did a much better job.. Thanks'

[letup27]

its a travel trailer, but its on its own breaker. I won't be getting the converter for another two weeks. I want to have all the wiring in place. I have already pulled the 10-2 wire. If you can think of anything, please message me. Im pretty much going to follow the diagram I sent you.

[BFL13]

Some Rvs have the converter on the same breaker as some outlets, so you can't just turn off the breaker to shut off the converter if you need those outlets to be live from inverter.

In that case you need to insert a switch on the converter's pos wire before it gets to the breaker, or else re-arrange the breakers.

Easiest if the converter plugs into an outlet. Just unplug it.

[MrWizard]

The batteries will recharge
From the converter section of the New Aims
Combo inverter-converter
It will charge through the New Wire you install to connect the Aims to your batteries

[3_tons]

letup27 wrote:
I really didn't want to install a sub panel. I can leave the breakers off. My first though was to run battery to inverter to 30 amp breaker on the panel box and disconnect the existing converter. Refrigerator, water heater and heat can run on gas.

Just shut off the converter breaker at the main if you choose...there is zero need whatsoever to disconnect it...

[letup27]

I really didn't want to install a sub panel. I can leave the breakers off. My first though was to run battery to inverter to 30 amp breaker on the panel box and disconnect the existing converter. Refrigerator, water heater and heat can run on gas.

[3_tons]

“You don’t need or want a separate transfer switch. You are installing what we call a "whole house" inverter that will power the entire panel. Yes you can run the air conditioner, microwave, electric water heater, electric fridge if you like... not all at once and only until the battery is dead.”

In general I do agree with this ”You don't need or want a separate transfer switch” as it is the simplest method of install, but will require that the inverter be ON to allow shore power to pass thru, and a charger to be ON (whether inverter-charger or OEM charger) to resolve the 3.5a parasitical drain...Upon reflection (memory now re-awakening - lol) the main reason we went with a secondary ATS Switch was due to having Lifepo4 batts, and having no desire to leave them under a constant charging ON source - eliminating the parasitical battery drain (via second ATS install) solved this nuance...

Be advised that to electrically heat a single batch of 6gal of water (via an inverter) will take over 1400w of battery capacity (about 110a/hrs)...Thus when off-grid, the heating of water, electric-resistance type refrigeration or heating, and air conditioning are uber inefficient, and this is why some folks opt for a sub-panel (as depicted in the illustration you previously provided) to sequester these loads away from the inverter...