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Inverter/solar install questions

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
I am installing an inverter and solar panel setup in my Volante 380MD 5th wheel. I have a Magnum 2812 inverter, 2x 100AH lithium batteries, getting 400AH more of batteries soon.

What I am thinking of doing is making the current primary electrical panel the subpanel and installing a 2nd panel as the main panel with shore power and AC, converter and other services I do not want to run off the inverter in the new panel. I also plan to move the shore power plug from the rear of the RV to the front, closer to the inverter for a shorter power run.

Looking for suggestions or cautions on my plan. I have most of the gear but might need more cable to move circuits to the new panel.


Thanks in advance ...
23 REPLIES 23

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
You are allowed to have the Li batteries inside. So IMO move the batteries to be by the power centre and put the inverter there too (maybe give up the bottom dresser drawer for that if needed on the other side of the wall.) Solar controller there too on wall.

Save all kinds of wiring routing plus keep 12v wires short.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
CA Traveler wrote:

Why do you want to make the main panel the sub panel vs the standard installation per the Magnum manual?

There is no reason for the plug shore near the Magnum or for the Magnum to be near either panel. The pedestal for many sites is in the rear so you'll need a longer cord to reach it. There are a lot of reasons for the Magnum to be close to the batteries. A say 125A load on the 12V wires will have 10x the amps then the amps on the 120V wires - plus about a 10% loss due to the charger/inverter power loss. Hence the 12V wires must be larger/shorter.


I've had a few experiences where the pedestal was in the middle of the site and with the length of this thing my 30' 50A cord barely reaches, but I realize I might be in the same situation at other sites if I move it to the front.

Se my reply to 2oldmn as well. I think I might just do the whole house install he suggested.

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
2oldman wrote:
500ah of Lithium ..? You could run anything in your coach, and probably your a/c for a while. I'll try to convince you to skip all that work and do it the much easier way: Do a hard-wire whole house install.

Forget the sub-panel stuff, forget the moving the shore cord. Is that Magnum an IC? If so, you've got it made.

a) install an spst switch on the converter and turn it off. If it has a separate breaker, even better, just turn that off. Use the charger in the Magnum. Caveat: Make sure the Magnum can be adjusted to charge Li's

b) Move ac panel's shore input to output of Magnum. Move shore cord power to ac input of Magnum. Most inverters that large have hard-wire functionality. I use household Romex. Did you mean you were going to plug your shore cord into it? I don't see any outlets on it.

c) Done, and you can run anything you want.

Now, having said my peace, if you absolutely cannot remember to turn your HW to gas and your refer to gas when inverting, then forget all this and do it your way.


I've been thinking about this option. I'd like to put a 50A breaker box between the shore power plug and the Magnum input, but otherwise just wire it like this. We never use the electric WH anyway.

If I go with this option, I need a 40' length of 6/3 cable to run shore power to the inverter, otherwise I'm set.

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
Where is the power centre now and your inverter and batteries?

BTW nice unit! (I watched the video but they didn't show any electrical stuff)

Note-you don't need to shorten a 120v line for saving any power like with a 12v DC line. It might be more convenient, depending.


Power center is in the center of the RV, right in front of the door as you come in. Batteries are in the front storage compartment, which is where the inverter will go.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
600ah of Lithium ..? You could run anything in your coach, and probably your a/c for a while. I'll try to convince you to skip all that work and do it the much easier way: Do a hard-wire whole house install.

Forget the sub-panel stuff, forget the moving the shore cord. Is that Magnum an IC? If so, you've got it made.

a) install an spst switch on the converter and turn it off. If it has a separate breaker, even better, just turn that off. Use the charger in the Magnum. Caveat: Make sure the Magnum can be adjusted to charge Li's

b) Move ac panel's shore input to output of Magnum. Move shore cord power to ac input of Magnum. Most inverters that large have hard-wire functionality. I use household Romex. Did you mean you were going to plug your shore cord into it? I don't see any outlets on it.

c) Done, and you can run anything you want.

Now, having said my peace, if you absolutely cannot remember to turn your HW to gas and your refer to gas when inverting, then forget all this and do it your way.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
robertdmunn wrote:

What I am thinking of doing is making the current primary electrical panel the subpanel and installing a 2nd panel as the main panel with shore power and AC, converter and other services I do not want to run off the inverter in the new panel. I also plan to move the shore power plug from the rear of the RV to the front, closer to the inverter for a shorter power run.
Why do you want to make the main panel the sub panel vs the standard installation per the Magnum manual?

There is no reason for the plug shore near the Magnum or for the Magnum to be near either panel. The pedestal for many sites is in the rear so you'll need a longer cord to reach it. There are a lot of reasons for the Magnum to be close to the batteries. A say 125A load on the 12V wires will have 10x the amps then the amps on the 120V wires - plus about a 10% loss due to the charger/inverter power loss. Hence the 12V wires must be larger/shorter.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
โ€œ I also plan to move the shore power plug from the rear of the RV to the front, closer to the inverter for a shorter power run.โ€œ

Your shore power goes to your inverter?
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Where is the power centre now and your inverter and batteries?

BTW nice unit! (I watched the video but they didn't show any electrical stuff)

scroll down to the 380MD

https://www.rmrv.com/product-crossroads-rv/volante-fifth-wheel#libraryDetailTabs

Note-you don't need to shorten a 120v line for saving any power like with a 12v DC line. It might be more convenient, depending.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
The only caution I'd say, is Li don't want to be float charged. Better to cease charging at 90% of full. Their lack of voltage drop may make that hard to find.

I hate wasting solar power.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.