Forum Discussion

emcee's avatar
emcee
Explorer
Apr 28, 2013

Jackhammering water pump

The Shurflo model 2088 water pump in my 2003 Tioga 23e is extremely loud. The installation manual recommends at least 1ft. of flexible high-pressure tubing to both ports and the pumps ports/strainer should not be connected to plastic or rigid pipe. So opened up the bathroom cabinet and found that Fleetwood ignored both of these suggestions. I want to install the flexible tubing. The problem is I've never seen the type of connectors used in this plumbing. See the picture linked below. How do those blue connectors work? I would like to come straight out of both sides of the pump with at least 12" of tubing as suggested. Ex. On the inlet side I would like to remove the two 90 degree elbows and put a loop from the pump to the blue connector. How do I transition from the flexible tubing to the rigid plastic stuff with the blue connectors?

  • Dutch_12078's avatar
    Dutch_12078
    Explorer II
    Mar 31, 2014
    down home wrote:
    There are other types, of pumps than diaphram. I don't know why they don't seem to sell them, for RVs. Of course it would probably mean pressure tanks and valves but perhaps not.
    Maybe some, of the Prevost and others, have a better idea.

    Diaphragm pumps are one of the few designs that can be run dry for extended periods without damage, and probably one of the lowest cost. That combination makes them pretty ideal for RV use.
  • down_home's avatar
    down_home
    Explorer II
    Mar 31, 2014
    Nature, of the beast. The first pump, in our Mh was near silent. The one they put back in pulses like others. A loop, of flexible, or rubber water line helps cushion it. If it is water hammer, they make a fitting or piece of pipe with an air cushion to eliminate it. A plumber knows what I'm talking about but I can't think, of the name, of it.There are other types, of pumps than diaphram. I don't know why they don't seem to sell them, for RVs. Of course it would probably mean pressure tanks and valves but perhaps not.
    Maybe some, of the Prevost and others, have a better idea.
  • mobeewan's avatar
    mobeewan
    Explorer
    Mar 31, 2014
    renoman69 wrote:
    Those fittings are "Wirsbo Pex" fittings. The pipe and fitting are stretched with a special tool and then left to shrink back tight over the fitting. I am surprised to see them in an RV especially with those cheapo plastic fittings .

    Wirsbo video


    They are not Wirsbo fittings. They look are something new called Flair-it Pro. They are supposed to work with "all types" (they list about 5 different type in their installation video)of pex tubing. The blue or red collars slip over the pex and then the pex is slipped over the fitting barb. Then instead of the collar threading onto the fitting like regular Flair-it fittings there is a tool that slips over the fitting and collar and when squeezed the collar is pulled down over the fitting barb completing the joint.
  • Harvard's avatar
    Harvard
    Explorer
    Mar 30, 2014


    Notice how the OPs inlet line takes a vertical dive just before entering the filter. We have the same issue. When ever we allow the fresh water tank go empty this inlet line fills with air. After refilling the freash water tank, the vertical line causes an air trap and the only way to clear ALL THE AIR (IN OUR CASE) from the trap is to open two or more taps for the highest water flow possible.

    Until all the air in the trap is cleared OUR PUMP makes a very bad scene, just like the OP described.
  • gb76087's avatar
    gb76087
    Explorer
    Mar 30, 2014
    I wonder what one could expect if you used the braided hoses.
  • gijoecam's avatar
    gijoecam
    Explorer
    May 09, 2013
    I know it's too late, but don't waste your money on the ShurFlo kit. Find a local Ace Hardware store, browse through the plumbing section, and find a pair of washing machine hoses in a bag on the bottom shelf. (The ones I got were white and 36" long, and IIRC less than $15) Then head to the fittings and get a couple of schedule-80 threaded close nipples. Take the hose off the outlet of the pump and rotate the fitting 90 degrees, then connect the nipple and a hose to the existing plumbing, then loop the rubber hose about two or three times in a loose loop, and connect it to the pump outlet.

    This was the setup I used on our popup...

    DSCN0023 by gijoecam, on Flickr

    I did a similar setup on our current travel trailer, though I can't seem to find the pictures at the moment...
  • emcee's avatar
    emcee
    Explorer
    May 08, 2013
    The silencer kit is installed and....it helped. Not exactly silenced but an exact guess would be about a 33% reduction in the noise level. I'll take it. Went from obnoxiously loud to about what you would expect. I recommend it.
  • renoman69's avatar
    renoman69
    Explorer
    May 01, 2013
    Those fittings are "Wirsbo Pex" fittings. The pipe and fitting are stretched with a special tool and then left to shrink back tight over the fitting. I am surprised to see them in an RV especially with those cheapo plastic fittings .

    Wirsbo video
  • ksg5000's avatar
    ksg5000
    Explorer
    Apr 30, 2013
    Silencing kit will help - but in my case I found that putting rubber foam material between the floor and the hose/connectors helped with the residual vibration. The other thing I did that helped was placing the water pump on top of a couple of old computer mouse pads.
  • Monaco_Montclai's avatar
    Monaco_Montclai
    Explorer
    Apr 30, 2013
    they say if u replace the hard water lines with flex hoses it helps a lot ---happy- camping

About Technical Issues

Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,211 PostsLatest Activity: Mar 11, 2025