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LifePo4 Voltage at .5C - .6C Discharge

otrfun
Explorer II
Explorer II
Our two GC2's (with 100% charge) drop below 12v while under a 100a - 125a load. When they reach 50% (at 100a - 125a), voltage drops into the low 11's while under-load.

What kind of under-load voltage can I expect with two 100ah LifePo4's (paralleled) with a 100a - 125a load? At 100% charge? At 10-20% charge?
89 REPLIES 89

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
BFL13 wrote:



Ivylog ....snipped some

I’m thinking of leaving a fla battery in the bank as a sacrificial safety feature???


It would act as a parasite, so it would need to be switched. What do you perceive as the benefit?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
afidel wrote:
They're going to be very flat down to about the 20% SoC level and then quickly dive.


I think you are confusing voltage under load with resting voltage.

ALL batteries have some internal resistance. the voltage drop under load is based on that internal resistance. and no.. I don't know what it is .
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Was a question about that in the "generator and alternator thread" maybe you can answer it for him over there ?


Ivylog ....snipped some

I’m thinking of leaving a fla battery in the bank as a sacrificial safety feature???
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

grizzzman
Explorer
Explorer
Itinerant1 wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
We always are off grid except at home, so redundancy is good. Don't want to have to bail and go home early.

Itenerant1, how did the sequence work when you had your BMS shut-down when one of your cells "went rogue"? In particular, how did you get your Magnum to light up so you could use its charger with the House batts shut down?


This all happened while I was away working in a different state and wife was with the 5th wheel and going on 1,017 days of continuous boondocking and never an issue.

Cells didn't go rouge they shut off charging acceptance due to low cell temp (bms doing exactly what it was designed to do). The batteries were still able to power the rig "but" without charging time is against you. Once the cells warmed up above 32f solar started to charge but this was in the afternoon when it started charging. Generator ran out of gas and she couldn't get it going again. Next night before me coming home she called me and said the system shutdown "no 12v power". She had no idea why. This happened in Nov 2019 while in Kansas with nighttime lows between 7-11f, daytimes just above freezing (cold front dropped down).

Temporary solution... she winterized the trailer (we carry rv antifreeze with us during cold months), pulled out the big buddy heater.

Cause of the system shutting down was one of the senseboards on the cells stopped communicating with the cpu, it did exactly what it's supposed to do...shutdown (one of many safety features, if it doesn't see 20 cells it shuts down). Why did the senseboard die, I don't know why...age, electronic failure or just sheet happens?

When I returned I picked up a new eu2200i generator on the way back. I wanted to upgrade the eu2000i anyways this just sped that up.

First thing I did was put a multimeter on the pack and it was showing 13.28v so it was ok and had a charge. I talked to my installer and he explained how to bypass the cpu (bms) "but" doing this the 20 cells were unprotected.


Now for the next part of the problem, the batteries were not being charged from the Magnum inverter/ charger or solar. After talking to the installer and trying different things...nothing, no charging as if the system was dead but I could see the lights on the equipment showing power? In the meantime plugged in a car battery charger (10a) to the generator so not to kill the batteries while thinking about my options.

After thinking about this overnight, the next morning I went and looked at the Me-Arc setup menu for the system and everything was not as it was set up originally, it cleared itself back to factory settings. After 15 minutes of resetting all of the setup menu from before these issues started the system was back on line charging properly from both the inverter/ charger and solar. I was told that Magnum equipment will remember settings if this were to happen...well it didn't.

This was a inconvenience for sure, more for the wife than me because she was with the trailer and I was in a hotel room that night.

Leason learned from this experience.
Keep generator full of gas. 😉
How to bypass cpu.
Don't go off the word of others, check everything including settings.
Carry extra senseboards now.
Don't put off insulating compartment, tapped into furnace heat duct.
Everything thing is written down now with pics if I'm away and the wife has to do it. Good thing I wrote the settings down that were programmed originally because 3 years later I wouldn't of remembered them all. Hint to all write your settings down, you never know.;)

I like to think I was prepared but this showed the wink links that needed attention to. 😞

Something else between "dropin" and a more diy system is the control over exterior components verses the sealed box. It won't be the end of the world just some inconvenience, you hope anyways.


This is exactly why I went with a hybrid LFP-FLA system. Here is an voltage example of when the was a software SOC error. The LFP BMS shut down shortly after sun up charging started.
2019 Ford F150 EcoBoost SuperCrew
2016 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S. TM2030 SC2030
640 Watts Solar. Costco CG2 208 AH and Lifepo4 3P4S 150 AH Hybrid. ElectroDacus. Renolagy DC to DC charger. 2000 Watt Inverter.
Boondocking is my Deal

3_tons
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
3 tons,

My daughter is a CO survivor. I won't normally run unvented combustion heaters and have been forced into doing so once in 21 years.

CO binds to the hemoglobin far "tighter" and it takes many hours to get it out of the body.

The other part of bad side is there are many other unpleasant combustion products. That's why I was never interested in a Buddy or Cat unvented heater.


Definitely a scary story PT, thanks for sharing Sir...

3 tons

Itinerant1
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
To use a phrase I started here, many years ago. "capacity is king". Design sufficient worst case capacity and add 10 to 20%. That may lead to lack of angst on camping trips.

Itinerant1 has done so, and any thinking person would do the same.

BFL13 approaches solar and storage from the minimalist point of view and has great fun doing so!


For those interested.

I had plenty of time on my hands yesterday so decided to do a daily use recording. I do this periodically so I can go back in time and cross reference loads to SoC to Voltage to see if anything is amiss or losing capacity.

This here also shows that unless you are coulomb counting it is almost impossible to get an accurate SoC to voltage especially if there is any charge/ load even a small amount will matter.

We normally would of run from the heat by now but I have a couple more days of business before moving to cooler weather. I did record what the solar was contributing during the day at recording times along with outside ambient temp (F). If you look at the remarks you'll see gen started for the air conditioner/ 120v loads and solar is just charging batteries/ 12v loads. Once the batteries are full the gen is turned off and batteries/ solar is running the entire loads for a couple hours, after that the gen is started again to keep the trailer cool for a short bit longer. Using the batteries till 65% +/- Soc gives plenty of power for the night/ morning till the sun comes up and recharges to do this over again. Saves a couple hours of gen/ gas each time if it's hot.

The microair add on last year is doing a great job of slowing the current from the locked rotor instead of throwing 200a at once.




Solar production past 2 days.
12v 500ah, 20 cells_ 4s5p (GBS LFMP battery system). 8 CTI 160 watt panels (1,280 watts)2s4p,Panels mounted flat. Magnum PT100 SCC, Magnum 3012 hybrid inverter, ME-ARC 50. Installed 4/2016 been on 24/7/365, daily 35-45% DOD 2,500+ partial cycles.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
deleted, wrong thread.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
3 tons,

My daughter is a CO survivor. I won't normally run unvented combustion heaters and have been forced into doing so once in 21 years.

CO binds to the hemoglobin far "tighter" and it takes many hours to get it out of the body.

The other part of bad side is there are many other unpleasant combustion products. That's why I was never interested in a Buddy or Cat unvented heater.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

3_tons
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
Some RVs have a big warning sign by the stove to never use it for heating the rig (fumes) Our 5er did. Owner's manuals have that too. And with no 12v, no range hood exhaust fan either.


I should have added that I would never sleep with an unvented combustion burner running. Nor would I leave the burners running at more than the most minimal setting while I was not in the Rv. I would use it to keep things livable.

My ultimate back up is to start the engine and use the dash heat.


PT, this is because hemoglobin (a specialized type of protein), when given a choice between carrying O2 or CO into the bloodstream, will (for reasons unknown...) default to CO...Because of this abnormal characteristic, and the fact that CO is orderless and colorless, CO is very hazardous and by some safety experts considered to be one of the deadliest gases known to man...

3 tons

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
BFL13 wrote:
Some RVs have a big warning sign by the stove to never use it for heating the rig (fumes) Our 5er did. Owner's manuals have that too. And with no 12v, no range hood exhaust fan either.


I should have added that I would never sleep with an unvented combustion burner running. Nor would I leave the burners running at more than the most minimal setting while I was not in the Rv. I would use it to keep things livable.

My ultimate back up is to start the engine and use the dash heat.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

otrfun
Explorer II
Explorer II
BFL13 wrote:
. . . EDIT-- beware of the polarity with those kind of wire sets. They can reverse in the middle depending. (eg try to join two 12v plugs end to end and get the polarities right 😞 )
Once these Anderson-type connectors (shown in Intinerant1's pic) are properly terminated/installed, it's impossible to get the polarity reversed after the fact. They only plug-in one way. We used 3 or 4 of the 175a versions for our dc2dc charger install. They're *very* rugged, well-built connectors.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
With jumper cables to the LFPs, it might be possible for voltages from the truck to be wrong for your LFPs? 15v at first? It depends on the truck I guess.

At least with the DC-DC charger method, you can pick the right voltage and it has a buck/boost in it to bring the truck's voltage up or down to the chosen LFP charging voltage. The truck's voltage would get to 13.x soon after starting, reducing the amps? You can pick 14.6, 14.4, 14.2, or 14.0 and it stays at that doing constant X amps (40 for the 40 amper. ISTR a 60? that would pull 90a) It does not do a Float voltage with LFP. You turn it off manually or if you have it wired that way, by turning off the ignition.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Itinerant1
Explorer
Explorer
My thought is if it needs the emergency charge I want to through ever ounce of current at it without harming the truck no limits on the lfp end for me anyways, the truck won't though 500a (1C). Lol
12v 500ah, 20 cells_ 4s5p (GBS LFMP battery system). 8 CTI 160 watt panels (1,280 watts)2s4p,Panels mounted flat. Magnum PT100 SCC, Magnum 3012 hybrid inverter, ME-ARC 50. Installed 4/2016 been on 24/7/365, daily 35-45% DOD 2,500+ partial cycles.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
There is also eg, the Renogy DC-DC charger. I have the 20 amp size (Truck alternator not huge) by the TC batts and the input to the charger is via 7-pin #4 (some wiring mods there)

The charger itself has an LFP profile you can pick if it suits, and there is no paralleling with the truck batts. Your truck's alternator could take the 40 amper I expect. The charger pulls more than it delivers so a 40 amper would pull maybe 60 amps

Only thing is the Renogy needs 12v to operate, but it can get that from the truck side if so wired. That way it would work if the trailer side 12v were dead.

EDIT-- beware of the polarity with those kind of wire sets. They can reverse in the middle depending. (eg try to join two 12v plugs end to end and get the polarities right 😞 )
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.