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New SunSaver 20L not working!

unbob
Explorer
Explorer
Just installed new SunSaver 20L. This seems to be a defective unit. If there's another possibility - I'm all ears!

Using multimeter, reading 19v from the single 85w PV panel. But the SunSaver status LED shows nothing (same as if no PV panel connected). Morningstar calls this 'Night' operating state - the status LED is off with "heartbeat" indication flickering ON (green) briefly every 5 seconds.

Therefore, no charging of the battery is happening.

Desperately seeking Comments/feedback. Thx!
33 REPLIES 33

Johnny_G1
Explorer
Explorer
dclark1946 wrote:
Johnny G1 wrote:
unbob wrote:
dclark1946 wrote:
So I am also having an issue with my new Morningstar Sun Saver 10A controller but it is different from the OPs. Mine seems to operate normally when the two 55W panels are in full sunlight but in the late afternoon or sometimes early evening the status led changes from green to full on red and the battery status leds are sequencing red,yellow,green. In the the controller stays in that state even with the panels illuminated by the sun (low angle) but later in the day the controller goes into normal charging operation with the expected charge and battery led status Being as expected.

I have discussed this with Morninstar tech support and they are sending me a replacement controller. I am wondering if they are having quality issues with their off shore supplier.
Solid red status LED is a "critical error" (see page 29) and the battery status LED R-Y-G sequencing is "Self-test Error" (see page 37).
Had the same problem on my truck camper, disconected charge line from truck and problem went away, no explanation for over charging with 2 power leads????


So are you saying that you were charging both your camper battery and your truck battery using a solar panel?
No I am saying that I had a charge line from my truck alternator to charge my camper batteries and was also using my solar too, nobody can figure it out as I can have my mh plugged in to electric and still be charging from my solar. The problem showed up when I had park and shut off my truck, Just happened to look in at my batteries and noticed the light's flashing. my batteries were optima blue top.
98 Mountain Aire 34' 210 Cummins Puller and 2001 dodge dully with all the toy's, 400 + hp pullin a 2001 32.5' Okanogan 5th wheel, new to us after 5 yrs with the 28' Travel Aire. Lots of fun.

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
I had a SunSaver 20 amp controller go bad, and they sent me a new one. The failure was preceded by my having the rig in indoor storage, plugged into shore power.
I left the solar panels connected. The result of that was that the battery voltage was higher than the panel voltage. The MS tech said that can create an error condition in the controller, but that it should be able to be cleared. But the controller had gone bad.

I don't know if the condition of indoor storage with everything connected caused the controller failure or not. I mention it in case it applies to OP or others in the thread.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

unbob
Explorer
Explorer
unbob wrote:
Just installed new SunSaver 20L. This seems to be a defective unit. If there's another possibility - I'm all ears!

Using multimeter, reading 19v from the single 85w PV panel. But the SunSaver status LED shows nothing (same as if no PV panel connected). Morningstar calls this 'Night' operating state - the status LED is off with "heartbeat" indication flickering ON (green) briefly every 5 seconds.

Therefore, no charging of the battery is happening.

Desperately seeking Comments/feedback. Thx!
Add'l info - when this 85w PV panel is connected to my old controller it works fine and charges the battery as expected. When the old controller is disconnected and replaced with the new SunSaver 20L controller there is no current from the PV panel and thus no charging whatsoever.

Conclusion: SunSaver 20L is defective. Can anyone here refute my conclusion? Is there any other possible answer to this conundrum?

dclark1946
Explorer
Explorer
Johnny G1 wrote:
unbob wrote:
dclark1946 wrote:
So I am also having an issue with my new Morningstar Sun Saver 10A controller but it is different from the OPs. Mine seems to operate normally when the two 55W panels are in full sunlight but in the late afternoon or sometimes early evening the status led changes from green to full on red and the battery status leds are sequencing red,yellow,green. In the the controller stays in that state even with the panels illuminated by the sun (low angle) but later in the day the controller goes into normal charging operation with the expected charge and battery led status Being as expected.

I have discussed this with Morninstar tech support and they are sending me a replacement controller. I am wondering if they are having quality issues with their off shore supplier.
Solid red status LED is a "critical error" (see page 29) and the battery status LED R-Y-G sequencing is "Self-test Error" (see page 37).
Had the same problem on my truck camper, disconected charge line from truck and problem went away, no explanation for over charging with 2 power leads????


So are you saying that you were charging both your camper battery and your truck battery using a solar panel?
Dick & Karen
Richardson,TX
2017 KZ Spree 263RKS
09 F250 V10

Johnny_G1
Explorer
Explorer
unbob wrote:
dclark1946 wrote:
So I am also having an issue with my new Morningstar Sun Saver 10A controller but it is different from the OPs. Mine seems to operate normally when the two 55W panels are in full sunlight but in the late afternoon or sometimes early evening the status led changes from green to full on red and the battery status leds are sequencing red,yellow,green. In the the controller stays in that state even with the panels illuminated by the sun (low angle) but later in the day the controller goes into normal charging operation with the expected charge and battery led status Being as expected.

I have discussed this with Morninstar tech support and they are sending me a replacement controller. I am wondering if they are having quality issues with their off shore supplier.
Solid red status LED is a "critical error" (see page 29) and the battery status LED R-Y-G sequencing is "Self-test Error" (see page 37).
Had the same problem on my truck camper, disconected charge line from truck and problem went away, no explanation for over charging with 2 power leads????
98 Mountain Aire 34' 210 Cummins Puller and 2001 dodge dully with all the toy's, 400 + hp pullin a 2001 32.5' Okanogan 5th wheel, new to us after 5 yrs with the 28' Travel Aire. Lots of fun.

unbob
Explorer
Explorer
dclark1946 wrote:
So I am also having an issue with my new Morningstar Sun Saver 10A controller but it is different from the OPs. Mine seems to operate normally when the two 55W panels are in full sunlight but in the late afternoon or sometimes early evening the status led changes from green to full on red and the battery status leds are sequencing red,yellow,green. In the the controller stays in that state even with the panels illuminated by the sun (low angle) but later in the day the controller goes into normal charging operation with the expected charge and battery led status Being as expected.

I have discussed this with Morninstar tech support and they are sending me a replacement controller. I am wondering if they are having quality issues with their off shore supplier.
Solid red status LED is a "critical error" (see page 29) and the battery status LED R-Y-G sequencing is "Self-test Error" (see page 37).

dclark1946
Explorer
Explorer
So I am also having an issue with my new Morningstar Sun Saver 10A controller but it is different from the OPs. Mine seems to operate normally when the two 55W panels are in full sunlight but in the late afternoon or sometimes early evening the status led changes from green to full on red and the battery status leds are sequencing red,yellow,green. In the morning the controller stays in that state even with the panels illuminated by the sun (low angle) but later in the day the controller goes into normal charging operation with the expected charge and battery led status being as expected.

I have discussed this with Morningstar tech support and they are sending me a replacement controller. I am wondering if they are having quality issues with their off shore supplier.
Dick & Karen
Richardson,TX
2017 KZ Spree 263RKS
09 F250 V10

unbob
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
unbob wrote:
time2roll wrote:
What voltage do the output terminals read?
I assume you mean the 'load' terminals - they read exactly the same as voltage measured at battery terminals (currently 12.38v).
No I meant the output terminals to verify the battery was connected properly.

I would disconnect solar. Disconnect from the battery. Then reconnect for one more try. Otherwise yes I think it is shot.

Any chance anything was connected with reverse polarity?

Does the manual suggest anything?
Manual states the following:

Battery Reverse Polarity
Fully protected against reverse battery connection. No damage to the controller will result. Correct the mistake to resume normal operation.

PV Reverse Polarity
Fully protected against reverse solar connection. No damage to the controller will result. Correct the mistake to resume normal operation.

and this ...

Self-diagnostics and electronic error protection prevent damage when installation mistakes or system faults occur.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here is a "field test" for a basic solar controller (Specialty Concepts ASC) that may or may not apply to the SunSaver you can try when there is some sun.

EDIT--Read the SunSaver manual first to see if it is one of those which will fry if on panel with no battery! This test has that.

STEP 1: Preparation –
1) Put a solar panel in full sun. Remove any connections. Measure the open circuit voltage (voc)
of the panel (meter(+) to panel(+); meter(–) to panel(–) ). It needs to be 17 volts* or higher
to perform the following tests.
2) Remove any connections from the ASC.
STEP 2: Test FET’s (power transistors) – A unit with an shorted FET will not charge a
battery. One with an open FET may overcharge the battery.
1) With all ASC connections removed, connect the panel(+) to the ASC’s “ARRAY(+)”; panel(–)
to the ASC’s “ARRAY (–)” (no battery connection).
2) Measure voltage at BATT(+) and BATT(–) terminals on the ASC. The reading should be
between 14.0 and 15.0 volts*. (Units with Option-A (Temperature Compensation) and
Option-F (Adjustable Set-points) may vary beyond this range).
A very high reading (16-20 volts*) would indicate an open FET, or very low reading (2-5
volts*) would indicate a shorted FET. Units with open or short FET’s are defective
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
OK, I got my PWM controller onto a battery being floated but have no PV connection to the controller.

Battery terminals---13.58v
Array terminals--- 2.13v
Load terminals--13.58v

Not a clue what this means, but there is nothing wrong with the controller last time out.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
unbob wrote:
time2roll wrote:
What voltage do the output terminals read?
I assume you mean the 'load' terminals - they read exactly the same as voltage measured at battery terminals (currently 12.38v).
No I meant the output terminals to verify the battery was connected properly.

I would disconnect solar. Disconnect from the battery. Then reconnect for one more try. Otherwise yes I think it is shot.

Any chance anything was connected with reverse polarity?

Does the manual suggest anything?

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
With PWM, you are supposed to get battery voltage at the panel allowing for voltage drop. So that 19v Voc you got (sun weak or low--instead of full sun 20.3ish ?) once connected should show battery voltage.

I need to check my PWM controller for this without the panel connected to confirm, but I think ?!? the panel terminals should show battery voltage being "passed through" with no panel on them.

I don't have solar set up right now, so maybe somebody else can run a quick check on that.-----?
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

unbob
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
What voltage do the output terminals read?
I assume you mean the 'load' terminals - they read exactly the same as voltage measured at battery terminals (currently 12.38v).

unbob
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
Ok, with controller to battery connected, but no connection to panel wires, do you get battery voltage at the controller to panel terminals? And a display light showing battery connected, but not the panel?

Is the fuse on the positive wire between battery and controller ok?
With no wires connected to PV panel terminals, the voltage reads zero.

The yellow battery status LED is on at the present time with battery voltage reading 12.38v.

No in-line fuse holder is installed on the positive wire between battery and controller. Just the wire between battery and controller.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad