You posted your pictures while I was writing my last post, and all Iโve got to say is โBravo!โ
Why didnโt I think of that?
For reference, this is how itโs โintendedโ to be installed. I think I like yours better :C
Have you taken it for a test drive yet? :W
:):)
Why didnโt I think of that?
For reference, this is how itโs โintendedโ to be installed. I think I like yours better :C
Have you taken it for a test drive yet? :W
:):)
On to the project.
Parts laid out. I originally wanted to use the factory nuts because they spread out and get really tight, but ended up having to use conduit nuts and a spacer made of 3/4" PVC that fit perfectly over the nipples (giggity).
The cutting board is key IMO, you can find it on Amazon for $15 but I paid $3 at my local Big Lots and it was the perfect width. This left me with 3 factory finished edges on the top and sides, the bottom edge where I cut you will never see.
I used my old assembly as a guide to drill my holes and then marked a center line for where to cut for the new fixture.
A 7/8 inch spade bit was almost perfect, just a touch too big. This type of spade bit is not ideal since it has no wood to grab into, but I didnt have 7/8 in a regular one.
Heres a shot of the inside before using teflon tape.
And another shot of the almost completed assembly
I know many of you were looking for studs or adding a backer to support the new valve, but in my configuration that was going to be very tricky to accomplish. Instead I used speed nuts and then finished up with some stainless allen bolts. This feels like it is more than sufficient to hold up the valve.
Here is the completed job after caulking. I would say it looks very good with the only real imperfection being where the faucet attaches to the cutting board having dug into the plastic a little when I was tightening it. I doubt anyone will ever notice that its anything but a professional installation, but then again, not sure I really care. This is for me and I very much look forward to enjoying it and cannot thank yall enough for providing me with several options and details on how to solve this issue.
Parts laid out. I originally wanted to use the factory nuts because they spread out and get really tight, but ended up having to use conduit nuts and a spacer made of 3/4" PVC that fit perfectly over the nipples (giggity).
The cutting board is key IMO, you can find it on Amazon for $15 but I paid $3 at my local Big Lots and it was the perfect width. This left me with 3 factory finished edges on the top and sides, the bottom edge where I cut you will never see.
I used my old assembly as a guide to drill my holes and then marked a center line for where to cut for the new fixture.
A 7/8 inch spade bit was almost perfect, just a touch too big. This type of spade bit is not ideal since it has no wood to grab into, but I didnt have 7/8 in a regular one.
Heres a shot of the inside before using teflon tape.
And another shot of the almost completed assembly
I know many of you were looking for studs or adding a backer to support the new valve, but in my configuration that was going to be very tricky to accomplish. Instead I used speed nuts and then finished up with some stainless allen bolts. This feels like it is more than sufficient to hold up the valve.
Here is the completed job after caulking. I would say it looks very good with the only real imperfection being where the faucet attaches to the cutting board having dug into the plastic a little when I was tightening it. I doubt anyone will ever notice that its anything but a professional installation, but then again, not sure I really care. This is for me and I very much look forward to enjoying it and cannot thank yall enough for providing me with several options and details on how to solve this issue.
