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Possible Addition of Second Battery

milo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Howdy ... I need you solar guys help please with a couple of questions.
My current battery is a 5 year old Group 27 Duracell Ultra Marine/RV Deep cycle that is starting to run outa oomph. We use a portable 130W Poli-si 7.35A panel and a Morningstar SunSaver-10L controller to charge it with when boondocking. For DW & my style of dry camping (3-4 nights at a time), no inverter, very little water pump usage and limited lights on at night. it works extremely well keeping the battery charged as the battery never gets below 12.35 (volt minder) at night and the next day the panel has it recharged. If we have sun.
I'm thinking when time comes to replace the battery I would possibly add a second 12v so we could use more & not worry bout running to much out of the battery.
My question is...
If I add a second battery, is my solar panel & controller big enough to charge 2 group 27 12V deep cycle batteries? If not, what size panel & controller would I need?

Controller & Panel we have now.





Thanks
Milo
Janet & Milo ...47 fantastic yrs 2gether :B
Mona Yorkie & Buddy our beloved Beagle (both in spirit)
2013 F-150 Kodiak Brown XLT 4X4 HD Ecoboost
2014 Cougar 26sab

Living under the best Government money can buy ... Bob Brinker ๐Ÿ˜‰
11 REPLIES 11

milo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks guys.
I'm still in the beginning stages of what I wanta do. Battery still seems to be doing its job. I'm just thinking bout the future. One of the first things I did when we bought the 5'er was convert all the inside bulbs to LED's. The panel runs up in the mid 14's for several hours, then tapers back to the mid 13's as it got the battery back to 100% or close to it. Was curious bout what we have now, if it would charge an added battery. Have thought bout 2-6 volts.
Thanks for all your inputs.

Milo
Janet & Milo ...47 fantastic yrs 2gether :B
Mona Yorkie & Buddy our beloved Beagle (both in spirit)
2013 F-150 Kodiak Brown XLT 4X4 HD Ecoboost
2014 Cougar 26sab

Living under the best Government money can buy ... Bob Brinker ๐Ÿ˜‰

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
theoldwizard1 wrote:
You are better off with two 6V golf cart batteries. They will store more energy and will probably cost less.

What you have for solar will charge just fine. Obviously it will take longer. Add a good batter monitor like a Victron BMV700.


I like it! Costco golf cart batteries....$99ea.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
IF you are going to add. How about poppign for a pair of GC-2
Logic
Current battery is just under 100 AH and only about 20-25 usable (new)
adding a 2nd doubles that

A pair of GC-2 in series. 220 AH and 110 usable. that's twice the power storage for almost exactly the same price.

YOu may find that the solar charges very slowly but .... slow is better.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Same amount of use, means same amount of recharge needed
Your 130w will be doing the same amount of work
But your batteries will maintain a higher state of charge
No problems, unless your usage increases beyond what your solar can provide
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
The existing solar is fine with two batteries. The existing solar may produce even more power as it may be running flat out all day instead of tapering off as you reach full charge. Worst case get more solar if you find it is necessary. If your lights are incandescent I would replace with LED first.

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
You are better off with two 6V golf cart batteries. They will store more energy and will probably cost less.

What you have for solar will charge just fine. Obviously it will take longer. Add a good batter monitor like a Victron BMV700.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Determine the AHs you use or want to use. Select a battery or batteries at least double that number. Better 2.25 or 2.50. Solar watts need to at least equal the total AHs. Select an adequate controller. Do it once, do it right.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
For your style I don't see any charging necessary if you start at 100%.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Starting ratio is one solar watt for every battery amp hour. On very sunny days, youโ€™ll be ok.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

Consider an SiO2 battery. A single 100 amp-hour would give you more usable power than two group 27 jars. Google SiO2 battery usa.

My first solar system was 30 watts. It was enough to top off two group 29 batteries when in storage so every trip started with a full battery bank.

The minimum would be 60 watts per 100 amp-hours.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

madjack60
Explorer
Explorer
Your 130w should be adequate under the condition you stated. More is always better, its all in preference. I have 4 group 27 batteries and 680w solar