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Possible Solution to Electric Problem

DownTheAvenue
Explorer
Explorer
Some of you may remember the problem I was having as explained in this thread:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28800813/gotomsg/28805011.cfm#28805011

A big thank you to every one who posted help.

With fingers crossed as repairing electrical glitches can be like chasing ghosts, but the main ground from the battery bank was defective. This is in a class B on a Chevy chassis. Apparently, the manufacturer drilled a hole in the chassis frame and bolted the ground cable there. The problem was two fold: 1. the bolt lacked a locking washer or star washer and had vibrated somewhat loose. 2. None of the undercoating on the frame was removed before the cable was bolted to the frame thus insulating a good connection.

Apparently, the only electric connection was at the bolt as it touched the the frame where drilled. When starting the generator, just enough vibration with arching would short out the 12 volts to the generator and stall it. It would then take a few moments for the 12 volts to return to the rest of coach.

Please hope along with me that this is the ultimate solution. As I said, electric problems (and water leaks) are like chasing ghosts. Anyway, I wanted to post the (what appears to be) the solution.
5 REPLIES 5

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
For years, GM used the engine's alternator bracket with 5/16" self tapping bolt. Their assembly went like this...

Alternator bracket - External tooth lock washer - cable lug - bolt.

Byrogie
Explorer
Explorer
Best to troubleshoot from the "ground" up....

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Had a problem like that with a car alternator once.. Added Star Washer. All was good. Here is hoping it works for you as well.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
I grind the paint or undercoating off, then with a pencil tip torch and strong flux I heat and lay solder on both sides of the frame rail. A stainless steel bolt, lockwasher and nut completes the hardware. The black Rust-O-Leum bed liner spray paint sold at Wal-Mart seems to be almost as good as the hot tar I used to use. Twenty years from now that frame connection will be "as new". Yes, it's overkill, and yes I hate to lay in the mud during a downpour.

2_many_2
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thanks for the follow up post. Glad you had an easy fix!