Rad Flush - antifreeze question

[MarkLDN]

Winter is coming and don't ask but I am in the midst of a thorough radiator flush and hose replacement. The chemical cleaner I am using suggests driving the for 3-6 hours over a few days to allow the product to work. Temperatures are at and slightly below freezing. I am at the point where I have added the bottle of cleaner and topped up the radiator with water. I also cut the water with washer fluid antifreeze in order to provide freeze protection over the next few days while I wait for the cleaner to work. Can anyone foresee any issues with this approach? Dont want my rad freezing up!

I intend to fully flush with water and fill with proper coolant after the job is done.

Thanks

[MarkLDN]

Yeah that's already off

[westend]

Try removing/loosening the lower radiator hose.

[MarkLDN]

I am having trouble removing the drain plug on the passenger side of the engine. Is it possible to flush everything without removing this one? I have removed the driver's side plug.

[MarkLDN]

westend wrote:
Could there be a burr on the hose fitting? I know when I've had to exert some force on the hose ends with tools for removal, it's pretty easy to scratch or put a burr on the fitting. Still, those hoses are d&^% tough.

You know what, that's a good possibility. And I was using a lever to prop up the alternator and I had no choice but to press it partially over the hose where this hole occurred. Stupid me.

Thanks for jarring my memory!

[westend]

Could there be a burr on the hose fitting? I know when I've had to exert some force on the hose ends with tools for removal, it's pretty easy to scratch or put a burr on the fitting. Still, those hoses are d&^% tough.

[MarkLDN]

Thanks. I know it needs to be replaced, but given it's brand new I am concerned a greater problem is at work. Not even 100km on it.

Thanks for the tip though. Napa only had the one option. Will call around (in Canada) to see if Green Stripe is available or something similar.

[rhagfo]

theoldwizard1 wrote:


I double checked the antifreeze concentration the next day after another 1+ hour drive. It was actually too high, so I removed about 2 quarts and add that much water back.

.

:h
Concentration was too high? Did measure over 70 percent? If you read the mix charts max protection is reached at around 70 percent antifreeze to water. The 50 percent just covers most locations.

[westend]

A few times, I've removed the hose that is split or cut towards the end of the hose, cut it, and reattached. For the price of 5/8" heater hose, even the silicone stuff, though, you may be more contented to simply replace it.

[wolfe10]

Not much question, it needs to be replaced again.

Gates green stripe hose is the top of the line.

[MarkLDN]

Thanks Westend!

New problem! Discovered a split in one of the heater core hoses near the pump! Brand new hose and clamp. Any ideas? Heat is working (at least for the moment). Photo attached.

[westend]

I'd suggest to get that windshield cleaner out of the engine ASAP.
You can drain the heater hoses and the core by removing the hoses and blowing compressed air from one end.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

For systems that have rusty looking water I used to use DuPont 2-part powder anc flush repeatedly. I tried liquid flush sold by Caterpillar dealers and it worked way more effectively than mouse milk sold in parts stores. The EPA apparently likes sold to consumers stuff that is environmentally friendly I guess.

[MarkLDN]

Thanks for the tips! Seems to be fine after a few days of commuting. I have picked up a new thermostat and will definitely flush twice.

My next question is how do you drain the heater core of all its garden hose water? I will be using distilled water and concentrated coolant to fill the system, but I want to remove as much tap water as possible. Should I just be able to disconnect the heater hoses from the engine block to blow out the water inside the heater core?

[theoldwizard1]

I use Prestone Radiator and Flush, which has similar directions. I did not want to spend that much time so I just took about a 1-2 hour drive. Drained the water/flush coolant and refilled with water. Drove about 15--30 minutes with the heat on, then drained that water. Repeat. YES, a second clean water flush.

Most modern engine have no way of draining the block so there is still a lot of clean water in the block. Looking at the total cooing system volume (owner manual) I calculated home much 100% antifreeze should be in the system.

I double checked the antifreeze concentration the next day after another 1+ hour drive. It was actually too high, so I removed about 2 quarts and add that much water back.

A few months later I had a mechanic ask how did I get the remote coolant reservoir so clean for an 17 year old vehicle.

[Ski_Pro_3]

I don't know what engine you have, but the Cummins diesels are sensitive to the type of anti freeze needed. Be sure to use exactly what the manufacturer recommends. Temps only slightly below freezing shouldn't matter for overnight sitting time. If worried, throw a trouble light under the hood to keep the chill off until the flush is finished it's cycle and replaced. Don't forget a thermostat change at this time as well. After going through all the trouble to replace hoses, flush and fill, it's something that should be considered. A new radiator cap may be another item you could consider changing now too.