ready to install antenna and router, but lots of ???

[Raife]

(Sorry for the dissertation)

Ok, so I have scoured several sites, posts, and videos and think I am ready. Quick recap, I’m looking to install a cellular system that can be used while stationary in the trailer AND while driving between destinations. I settled on the Pepwave MAX Tranit CAT18 cellular router and the Pepwave Puma 401 antenna. I have a Grand design Imagine XLS 21BHE (believe it is a SuperFlex rubber roof)

I have watched several videos and am ready to do the install of the Puma 401 antenna and the Transit MAX CAT18 (equipment should be here on the 11th). Given I want to use the wi-fi in the tow vehicle I have decided on the following:

- Mount the antenna on the front starboard (passenger) side of the roof, just behind the end of the front cap

- Drill through the roof into the starboard “closet” – this would be straight through to the router, no interior cable routing needed. The closest is very deep (front to back) and I don’t use the back of it anyway, so that can turn into the “tech area”

- Mount the Transit MAX on the back wall of the closet (which follows the curvature of the front cap). This allows it to be closest to the tow vehicle

- Drill through the bottom of the “closet” into the basement to run the 12V power through conduit to the battery cut off area. Hardwire the 12V to the exit of the battery cutoff. This allows the unit to run while driving.

- I am now thinking I will not need a separate access point to project to the tow vehicle (I originally thought the router would be middle of the trailer)

Questions:
- I am thinking I should mount the antenna on a small “stand” to get it a bit higher than flush with the roof (it is only 1.42” high and 5.12” diameter). I purchased a 6”x6”x4” and 8”x8”x4” junction box (https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-in-x-8-in-x-4-in-Junction-Box-R5133712/202043419). I figure I can mount the antenna to the top plate of the junction box, and then the box to the roof over the hole to the closet. This may allow me to drill a smaller hole as I only need to get the cables through and not the threads of the antenna housing. This gets it 4” inches up. The Wingard Air 360 would be ~30” away and is 6.5” high. The highest item on my roof is 9” high but many feet away (this also means I could theoretically add 7” of extra height and still not increase the overall height of my trailer). Does the extra 4” provide a performance difference?

- I have not really found anything on HOW to make a circular hole in a rubber roof? I have hole saws but have always used them for solid materials (i.e. wood and metal). Do I just use a hole saw?

- I didn’t find any info on if the Puma 401 would benefit from a ground plate? I purchased a 26 gauge 12”x18” steel plate and figure I can place it between the antenna and the larger junction box (cutting it to size of 8”x8” given you mentioned that was a good size) or between the junction box and the roof (in which case I could have a bigger area, i.e. 12”x12”. Would this help?

- My roof is SuperFlex and the manual says to use Alpha Systems 1010 Non-Sag Sealant. Do I just “seal” the whole junction box/antenna rig to the roof? Or do I need to screw it in too?

- For the 12V hardwire, what size gauge should I use? I am probably looking at a 15’ run from the unit to the battery cut off switch (which I plan on tapping into). I already have 18AWG, but wasn’t sure if jumping to 16AWG or 14AWG would help or be overkill.

Thank you for any help or info.

[Raife]

johnhicks wrote:
Your antenna isn't tall enough to worry about mounting it on the drivers side.

My six years experience with a Pepwave Max BR-1 has shown very sufficient performance with antennae on the roof, no pole mount. The only advantage of a pole would be if you're blocked by solid buildings or terrain; you'd have to be sure you're not intrducing too much coax loss. BTW, use LMR-400 coax.

Thank you. I will not have to use any additional cabling other than what is included with the antenna.

[johnhicks]

Your antenna isn't tall enough to worry about mounting it on the drivers side.

My six years experience with a Pepwave Max BR-1 has shown very sufficient performance with antennae on the roof, no pole mount. The only advantage of a pole would be if you're blocked by solid buildings or terrain; you'd have to be sure you're not intrducing too much coax loss. BTW, use LMR-400 coax.

[Raife]

wa8yxm wrote:
Two suggestions
ONE Driver side. farther from antenna grabbing tree limbs as you drive down a narrow road.

Other challenge for the driver side is the solar pre-wire ports are where I would need to drill the hole into the closet on that side. Plus I don't know exactly where the pre-wires themselves go in that area so I could hit them.

[Raife]

DrewE wrote:
The company does sell pole mounts to attach the antenna to a pole. Sometimes reinventing the square wheel is not worth the effort.

Problem is I couldn't find anywhere to purchase one...

[DrewE]

The company does sell pole mounts to attach the antenna to a pole. Sometimes reinventing the square wheel is not worth the effort.

[Raife]

Thank you for the suggestions. Wrt to the driver's side mounting, my thought had been having the router on the passenger side would provide greater broadcast of the Wi-Fi into the camp site when we are stopped by being closer and removing interference (i.e. traveling through the materials of the trailer). My antenna cord is only 6' long so I can't mount the antenna on the driver side and run it across the roof or snake it inside the ceiling to reach a passenger side mounted router. I'll look at it again to see if the router distance would make a huge difference (router on driver or passenger side)

I'm assuming you meant 10" (inches) and not 10' (feet) on the pole idea. I'll look into that, but was trying for simplicity and set and forget (to the extent that is feasible).

Edit: So I did a bit of looking into the logistics of your pipe suggestion and am struggling. I envision PVC pipe as the option.
- Would you use a female threaded PVC pipe to accept the antenna? Given the install hole size is 1-11/16, I would assume the thread pipe size is 1-3/4, but I am not finding any 1-3/4 female threaded PVC.

- I would think a flange secured to the roof would be the other end of the unit...does a flange provide enough surface area (i.e. hold area) to account for the wind resistance and leverage of the height? Would I need to use screws to secure it? Or just the sealant?

- How do you envision accounting for the cable movement during the required up and down? I had initially thought all the wires would be inside whatever construct I use. However, this would mean in the tube in tube setup that the wires would need enough space in the tube the be folded or doubled back to accommodate the up and down...or the slack would need to be in the inside closet. I had envisioned "filling/insulating" the hole through the roof, but if I needed to leave the slack in the closet, I'm not sure I could fill it...

- I am not familiar with an "EYW" type bolt and also not sure how having a screw arrangement wouldn't deteriorate over time. Also not sure PVC is strong enough to handle it over time.

If you have any more info or pictures it would really be appreciated.

Thank you.

Thank you.

[wa8yxm]

Two suggestions
ONE Driver side. farther from antenna grabbing tree limbs as you drive down a narrow road.

Two Push up pole mount for the antenna Need not be expensive just two pieces of pipe oh say about 10' that "nest" on inside the other. Antenna mounts to top pipe You put a "EYW" type bolt just below the top end of the bottom pipe. and either use the larger pipe to push up or "Slot" the lower pipe and add a threaded hole in the inner pipe with a knob (Like an awning lock knob to push up with.. DOWN for driving UP when parked.

[DrewE]

In terms of wire size, 18 AWG is sufficient electrically (the router thingy uses roughly 1.5 amps per their web page), but I'd go with 14 gauge or larger simply due to the wire being more physically robust. Be sure it's fused appropriately where it connects into the 12V system.

The antenna you list doesn't need a ground plane per its documentation. The maximum thickness of the panel (roof, in this case) it can mount on is only 15mm, so mounting it to a box seems a good plan. I doubt there would be any noticeable difference in performance one way or the other.

Frankly, the whole setup seems to me to be overkill for individual or family use, but I suppose that's not really any of my business.

[Lwiddis]

Consult a 12 volt wire size chart. Can’t determine wire size based on length “probably” and without amp draw. Here’s one from WindyNation. Compare with others. 18 or 16 AWG? Not worth using when dealing with 12 volts. 14 AWG....10 feet for 4 amps.

[Dutch_12078]

For the hole, lay it out on the roof with a marker. Cut the rubber roof material with a sharp utility knife and then use the hole saw for the underlayment. Without some research, I can't help you with the other issues.