Replacing water pump on Dad's coach

[Carb_Cleaner]

My Mom and Dad have an '07 Monoco Holiday Rambler. The Shur-Flo pump, Model # 2088-422-444, has been discontinued and superseded with Model # 4008-101-E65. Are there any install tips? I know I should drain the fresh water tank, first. The existing set-up has one-time use crimp clamps. Can I use regular hose clamps for the swap?
The existing has a cleanable screen filter attached with a threaded coupling, which I plan to re-use, but the clear cap faces upwards. The clear cap is removable for screen/filter cleaning. I thought a cup/screen-style filter should be oriented downward. Does it matter?
They're full-timing, and Dad just got out of the hospital 8 days ago, so I'll be performing the repair ASAP. He's doing better, and very mechanically inclined (40 years in HVAC), but I can't rely on having his assistance. I plan on picking up the pump at a local RV supply (with a hefty mark-up, but they need it), tomorrow. It's my understanding that the pump will not include any fittings. It sure looks like a gaggle of wires and hoses in the compartment. I assume there's a fuse or something so I can disconnect the 12V to the pump, but I didn't look, nor did I ask my Dad.
Any suggestions or caveats are welcome. It'd be nice not to look like an idiot in front of him or my Mom. I do that, plenty, already.

[Carb_Cleaner]

Pump install, complete. The bolt pattern for the new pump was the same. However, the space/orientation of the water inlet and output, in relation to the mounting bolts, is different. The new ports were lower than the original pump, which necessitated a little finagling to get them to line up with the connectors. I did not need to replace the coach's water connectors, but new mounting holes were required so they matched the new pump's relocated ports and didn't stress the existing plumbing. The existing hot wire wasn't re-usable. Its connector was toast. New connectors for ground and hot were utilized and a dose of dielectric grease was applied before connecting them. For my test run, it wouldn't prime, but I didn't freak out. To initiate flow, I connected a fresh water hose to the Winterizing port and got water to flow through the clear-capped basket strainer/filter. The strainer wound up facing cap up, just like it was before I took it apart. No biggie.
Took me about 3 hours, which was at least twice my estimate, but that included giving Mom a hug, showing Dad the new pump-in-a-box, draining the fresh water tank into a pieced together, 30 foot long, 2" PVC pipe (diverting water away from the coach/work area) and clean up of the utilities compartment. Main thing, they have water, again, and Dad can continue to convalesce.
Thanks for all the input.
P.S. The pump had a little water, maybe a teaspoon, that drained out when I removed the ports' shipping plugs. I guess they test them at the factory.

[Carb_Cleaner]

I scored a new pump. They had the crimp-on clamps, too. I picked up a crimp tool from Advance Auto. I can use the tool in the future for motorcycle applications, and probably my truck camper, at some point. Using Shark connectors didn't occur to me.

[John_Wayne]

No need for a crimp tool if use a shark connector, just slides over the pex, or copper pipe and can be taken off at a later time if need be.

[Carb_Cleaner]

Great info! Thanks!
I have an organizer box full of various crimp-on spade connectors and a wire stripper/crimper for them. Attaching one to the black wire should be a non-issue for me.
I'm about 60 miles away from their coach, so getting a pic, today, isn't gonna happen. I'm fairly certain it's Pex hose (clear-ish, white-ish hose, not black or grey). Any idea what the one-time-use clamp crimp tool is called and where I can buy one? Auto parts stores, perhaps.
Thanks for everyone's input. I'm headed there tomorrow to get the pump swapped out. I'm really glad to hear the mounting-bolt pattern is the same.

[RJsfishin]

If you get the universal pump designed to replace any shure-flo pump, you won't need anything else, except a blue butt connector for the cut black wire. Just unplug the red wire, and cut the black wire.
If there is no valve on the tank side of the pump. the tank will drain when you remove the intake side.

[mobeewan]

Carb Cleaner wrote:
My Mom and Dad have an '07 Monoco Holiday Rambler. The Shur-Flo pump, Model # 2088-422-444, has been discontinued and superseded with Model # 4008-101-E65. Are there any install tips? I know I should drain the fresh water tank, first. The existing set-up has one-time use crimp clamps. Can I use regular hose clamps for the swap? The one-time use crimp clamps you mention may be connecting the tubing to fittings that have a nut the can unscrew from the pump. However if the screwed on fittings have to be removed by cutting the bands first you can use hose clamps if they are attaching hose. If the tubing is harder grey plastic or pex you will need permanent bands again. My setup unscrewed from the old pump and screwed onto the new pump. Maybe a picture of your dad's pump connections would help.

The existing has a cleanable screen filter attached with a threaded coupling, which I plan to re-use, but the clear cap faces upwards. The clear cap is removable for screen/filter cleaning. I thought a cup/screen-style filter should be oriented downward. Does it matter? No. It is a strainer and not a filter. Orientation doesn't matter for it to work. Clear cup down is best if you can get it turned that way to keep from dripping on the floor when cleaning. Mine is also upside down since that is they way is wound up when it screwed onto the pump inlet. Otherwise just put a couple paper towels under it when unscrewing the clear cup when the screen needs cleaning.

They're full-timing, and Dad just got out of the hospital 8 days ago, so I'll be performing the repair ASAP. He's doing better, and very mechanically inclined (40 years in HVAC), but I can't rely on having his assistance. I plan on picking up the pump at a local RV supply (with a hefty mark-up, but they need it), tomorrow. It's my understanding that the pump will not include any fittings. It sure looks like a gaggle of wires and hoses in the compartment. I assume there's a fuse or something so I can disconnect the 12V to the pump, but I didn't look, nor did I ask my Dad.
Any suggestions or caveats are welcome. It'd be nice not to look like an idiot in front of him or my Mom. I do that, plenty, already.I made the same swap. The red hot wire on the pump has a shielded spade connector already attached so that wire is plug and play. I unplugged the red wire from the new pump and connected the existing one that was on the old pump. The black ground wire on the new pump did not have a plug type connector nor did the old one. The old pump black wire was attached to the trailer wiring with a bell shaped crimped connector. I had plenty length from the existing trailer wire and was lazy and didn't dig for my box of assorted wire connectors since I had the same type crimp connectors (stick both wires in and crimp once) handy so I used one of them. I cut the trailer wire next to the connector on the ground wire, stripped the end and crimped the pump wire to it. There should also be 4 screws through the rubber feet on the pump holding it down. The new pump has the same screw spacing on its rubber feet.

[azrving]

It may be a good time to add flexible hoses if it doesn't have them. They are probably 1/2 inch and readily available. It will help cut down on the noise. Having better cushioning under it may also help. It's nearly impossible but keeping the hard plastic lines from vibrating on the walls or framing will help too.

[ScottG]

You don't even need to drain the water first unless the tank is at the same level as the pump.
It's just two fitting and a couple of wires. Very easy!